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Topic: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies) (Read 1578 times) previous topic - next topic - Topic derived from U320 for Dummies

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #25 –
Quote from: dsd –
So the position of the sun makes this look much bigger than it actually is, not saying there isnt something, just that it's not As big as it appears. Looks 3/4 of a inch tall but now guessing 1/8 of a inch? This could be something easily overseen with sun overhead or area in shade?
You're right, the sun definitely makes it all look bigger. It's not 3/4" but probably more than 1/8. I'll get a better guestimate later today. The little bumps definitely are not as noticeable as that pictures when you're up there in daylight
1987 Grand Villa ORED
2001 U320 4010

Not all that wander are lost... but I often am.

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #26 –
Elliott,

If you compare the size of the shadow of the dish and the antenna in pic 328 then that wrinkle can't be that tall.  Those bumps around the rest of the roof are the same thing. During the mid day those little bumps won't be noticeable.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #27 –
Can you comment on the texture/feel of the roof material?  It definitely doesn't look like any usual coatings that have been done, although about 5 years ago or so one of the shops did a couple of roofs with a thick material that looked cake-frosting-like when complete.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #28 –
Elliott,

Here's another "tool" that might help you as you investigate your roof.  Photo below was taken when I removed a old dead satellite dish from our coach.  It was stuck down VERY tight.  In getting it off I managed to tear the roof material around the hole.  I later covered the damaged area with a tightly sealed metal plate, so it has never been a problem.

But to the matter at hand - in the photo (zoom in) the arrow points to a spot where the gel coat came off with the dish mount, revealing the fiberglass mat material below it.  The piece of gel coat was very hard.  Like Scott said earlier, it is almost like glass (or ceramic) - hard and brittle.  It will not bend without breaking or cracking.  It is also a very thin layer, typically 0.5 mm to 0.8 mm.

I only mention these things so you can compare them to your roof material.  Does the surface on your roof have any "give"?  By that I mean can you push your finger nail into the surface anywhere on the roof and leave a mark?  If so, it is not gel coat.  Even very badly oxidized gel coat would still be a hard unyielding surface.  I know, because mine was once badly powdered out and leaving big white streaks down the sides of our coach.  After I cleaned it up it came out looking like the photos I posted earlier.

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #29 –
HMMmmm....  Furthur investigation of Forum archives revealed the old thread linked below.  Read through it (especially Reply #10) for a possible answer to this mystery.  Perhaps what Michelle is talking about in post above?

Roof Coating
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #30 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
HMMmmm....  Furthur investigation of Forum archives revealed the old thread linked below.  Read through it (especially Reply #10) for a possible answer to this mystery.  Possibly what Michelle is talking about in post above?

 ;)

If your fingernail can leave a mark in the material, there's a possibility...

Temp Coat or paint with glass at Extreme

Although also see reply #10 in this thread regarding a rubberized coating offered by FOT

Roof finish

Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #31 –
So went out to my dirty coach and took some comparison photos in same area. Couldn't see in photo dip in my roof so put 5' straight edge on it and flashlight to help see. About a 1/8" bow on mine downward. I'm zero concerned about my bow.
Scott

Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

Reply #32 –
Ok, I was able to get out there right before dark today and take some pictures. It was overcast here today so no shadows to play tricks on us. Here's what I now know:
    • It's hard. Like fiberglass hard. If I hit it with a hammer, it would crack. There's no digging into it with your nails.
    • It is DIRTY. But, when I hit it with some simple green and a scrubby pad, it started looking like Chuck & Jeannie's (see pic)
    • Once cleaned up, the texture is smooth. I wouldn't want to try and stand on it when it's wet, it's that smooth.
    • The bubble is less than 1/8" tall. I could barely see it today without the sun.
    [/list]

    I only cleaned up the small circular area as a test. The other pictures showing more of the roof from the ladder are not cleaned at all. I'm going to start hitting the whole thing with Meguiar's 3-step marine/rv stuff this weekend.

    Question: If I take the grippy pad off and see cracking, what's the fix for that?

    Thanks again all
    -E

    1987 Grand Villa ORED
    2001 U320 4010

    Not all that wander are lost... but I often am.

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #33 –
    This is why it is so hard to diagnose problems from photos, although we on the Forum often try to do that the best we can.  The only way to really know what is going on is to look at it in person.

    If your roof surface comes out hard and smooth after a vigorous cleaning, then you are probably correct in thinking it is original.

    As to fixing the black no-step stuff, the first step is to carefully scrape it off any way you can.  Try not to damage the gel coat in the process.  After it is gone, see how the gel coat under it looks.  If there are any deep cracks that penetrate the gel coat, then they will require repair.  Others on the Forum can advise on the best method.  The end goal is preventing and/or correcting any damage that could allow water to penetrate the roof.  Water leaks = BAD.
    1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
    C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
    960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
    Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
    "Nature abhors a vacuum"

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #34 –
    If you don't see cracks coming through the black stuff there probably isn't any cracking under it.  I would just apply white epoxy paint over it with a brush.  Mask the perimeter and add sand or grit to make it non-skid if necessary.  Just my opinion.

    As for the bubble area I would make sure there is no active leak going on.  I would do that by accessing the AC opening on the inside of the coach where the edge of the roof opening is visible and look for any wetness or signs of it.  You will be able to see the cross-section of the roof.  You have a "fancy" ceiling design so I'm not sure how the panels are removed but I think that is covered somewhere here on the forum.  You only need to remove the panels, not the A/C itself.
    John Fitzgerald
    1991 U300 (SAI) Side Aisle Island Bed 40'
    Detroit 6V92 with Allison Retarder
    Meridian (Boise), Idaho

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #35 –
    Here's a thread with some more opinions (everybody's got one) on how to deal with the black non skid stuff.

    Roof leak
    1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
    C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
    960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
    Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
    "Nature abhors a vacuum"

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #36 –
    Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
    Here's a thread with some more opinions (everybody's got one) on how to deal with the black non skid stuff.

    Roof leak
    Thanks Chuck, you probably saved me a good amount of sleuthing with this. I noticed some very slight checking in the gel coat when I was really looking close on my hands and knees so I suspect I may find more once I get all this oxidation cleaned up.
    1987 Grand Villa ORED
    2001 U320 4010

    Not all that wander are lost... but I often am.

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #37 –
    I just pressure washed of what was removable let dry for several days then filled crack with Scotchweld. Will paint over with two component wing walk paint with sand in it. White in color
    Scott

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #38 –
    Well I think we got lucky. No cracking beneath the pad!

    Removal took about 20 minutes with a heat gun and putty knife
    1987 Grand Villa ORED
    2001 U320 4010

    Not all that wander are lost... but I often am.

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #39 –
    Looks great!  I wouldn't give it another thought.  After you get your whole roof cleaned up, just treat that area with the same wax or sealer product that you use on the rest of the roof.
    1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
    C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
    960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
    Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
    "Nature abhors a vacuum"

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #40 –
    Well I got up there today and scrubbed the whole thing with a very mild bleach solution, let it dry, and then went at it with an orbital buffer & Meguiar's Oxidation remover. Man that sucked. There's some very mild checking in the gel coat in a couple spots that I plan to address with a two-step epoxy paint and then I'll hit it all again with Meguiar's Wax and then their polish after that.

    Seeing the roof in it's current form has highlighted how much oxidation is also on the end caps so they're next. I also resealed the seams on the end caps today.

    I put new pads and calipers on my F250 this weekend too, so she's about ready to be put up for sale so we can start the hunt for a GX470 or LX470  :D
    1987 Grand Villa ORED
    2001 U320 4010

    Not all that wander are lost... but I often am.

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #41 –
    Geez, that would take me a few weeks.  Not to do the job but for the body recovery after!  Oh to be young again.
    Just installed the Blueox baseplate on my GX470.  Give me a pm if you get one and I'll give you a few tips.  Can't wait to get my GX in the mountains next summer.
    Forest & Cindy Olivier
    1987 log cabin
    2011 Roadtrek C210P
    no longer 1999 36' U320 build #5522
    2013 Rzr 570 & 2018 Ranger XP1000
    2006 Lexus GX470
    2011 Tahoe LT 4x4
    Previous 1998 45' 2 slide Newell, 1993 39' Newell

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #42 –
    Quote from: Elliott –
    There's some very mild checking in the gel coat in a couple spots that I plan to address with a two-step epoxy paint and then I'll hit it all again with Meguiar's Wax and then their polish after that.

    You might want to strongly reconsider wax and polish after paint, plus adding a nonslip grit additive to the epoxy paint. 

    The last thing you want to do is make the roof slippery and thus hazardous to be on.  There are no "grab bars" up there and it's slightly domed.  Most of the roof coating jobs folks have had done are classic white paint with grit.

    We definitely appreciated the "traction assist" on ours, and it was not hard to clean.
    Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

    2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
    2003 U320

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #43 –
    [split out all the roof discussion from the original general coach topic to make future search results cleaner]
    Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

    2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
    2003 U320

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #44 –
    Quote from: Michelle –
    You might want to strongly reconsider wax and polish after paint, plus adding a nonslip grit additive to the epoxy paint. 
    I'm all ears for any suggestion that doesn't mean two more bouts with the orbital buffer!

    Since we're full timers, our rig will very seldom get respite from the sun so I figured the wax was a good step towards longevity. I was only going to paint the areas with checking (less than 1sqft total if you combined them all). Are you suggesting I repaint the whole roof en lieu of wax? I really don't care about cosmetics, I just want to protect the roof as best I can. Adding some traction would be a plus too.
    1987 Grand Villa ORED
    2001 U320 4010

    Not all that wander are lost... but I often am.

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #45 –
    I tipped and rolled two part boat gloss white on our roof. I didn't add any grit to the paint as it collects dirt easier. The roof is .400 total inches thick with gelcoat over about one layer of mat and then wood.  Wish it were glass cloth but... The gelcoat is pretty thin and very hard. I don't walk on it if it's wet.

    Pierce
    Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
    '93 U300/36 WTBI
    Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
    1140 watts on the roof
    SBFD (ret)

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #46 –
    Elliot, I can't say where I got it right off the top of my head but several years ago after many, many hours of deoxidizing the roof I used a "non-slip" boat deck polish on the roof.  That lasted for a few years, needs it again now but the next step will be clean, sand and paint.  Some have used coatings that are non-slip or traction enhanced and some add 3M micro glass bubbles as extra insulation.  In the long run coating the roof seems to be the best long term choice.
    Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
    2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
    Hastings, MN

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #47 –
    Quote from: Elliott –
    I'm all ears for any suggestion that doesn't mean two more bouts with the orbital buffer!

    I would highly suggest applying  a fiberglass sealer on before you wax such as this gel coat Labs product. It will make waxing easier for years.

    Gel Coat All Marine Surface Sealant 16 oz.
    Doug W.
    96 36' U270 CSGI #4946
    04 Toyota Tacoma 4x4
    PNW

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #48 –
    Quote from: Elliott –
    I'm all ears for any suggestion that doesn't mean two more bouts with the orbital buffer!

    Since we're full timers, our rig will very seldom get respite from the sun so I figured the wax was a good step towards longevity. I was only going to paint the areas with checking (less than 1sqft total if you combined them all). Are you suggesting I repaint the whole roof en lieu of wax? I really don't care about cosmetics, I just want to protect the roof as best I can. Adding some traction would be a plus too.

    Having "been there", although we did pay someone to do it, I would actually repaint the whole roof (with UV-stabilized paint that had some nonskid media mixed in).

    A slick roof can be very dangerous, especially when wet, which is why you really wouldn't want to wax it.
    Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

    2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
    2003 U320

    Re: Potential roof issue? (split from Re: U320 for Dummies)

    Reply #49 –
    I regel coated my roof and today it sure paid off. Last winter I had to sweep snow off the roof an it was so slippery that it was worth
    my life to be up there, in fact is was bad wet. An hour ago I was up there sweeping snow off the roof and it wasn't too bad.
    Peter and Frieda Morin
    1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
    Build # 5436
    1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport