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Topic: Engine air filter / canister question  (Read 978 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #25 –
I KNOW this thread is a bit confusing:

Discussion of two different "holes"-- one in the filter end so that the air filter minder can read accurately and the small ones shown in the first picture in the original post in the side of the canister itself.

And, of CRITICAL importance is which direction the air flows-- whether the intake/dirty side is toward the outside or center.  Neither is better/worse, but not understanding what you have can cost you a "dusted engine". 

Be careful out there!

Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #26 –
Quote from: dsd –
I've replaced my vacuator valve...can't find the number for it
http://www.donaldsonoemfiltration.com/library/files/documents/pdfs/055477.pdf
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #27 –
Air filters, even the most expensive, are pretty cheap especially compared to a $25,000 repair bill for a dusted engine from a failed air filter. When our engine was dusted from a failed air filter (the wrong was was installed by the PO's service place) the Cummins engine tech who rebuilt my engine suggested that:

1) If the filter canister is opened then the filter has to be replaced. Don't open the canister unless you are prepared to replace the air filter.
2) Replace the air filter every three years (4 at most).  Open the canister, remove the old filter, very carefully and completely clean the canister interior and install the new air filter. Make sure you use the correct filter for the direction of air flow.

You can use the cheapest filters available or the most expensive, maybe $35 difference.  About $30 a year to change them every three years.  They don't need to be changed any more frequently than 3 year intervals.  Or you can hope your filter minder is working, when was the last time you looked at it?  It is your engine you are protecting. DWMYH.
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #28 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
http://www.donaldsonoemfiltration.com/library/files/documents/pdfs/055477.pdf
P149099 Is the one inch part number. That should be the correct one
Scott
P149099 by DONALDSON - Vacuator Valve
$4.33 each
Scott

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #29 –
So, here's the answer to the OPs question. That hole should have a screw with a split loom wire clamp in it as mine does.
Richard & Betty Bark & Keiko our Golden Doodle
2003 U320T 3820 PBDS
Build # 6215
MC # 16926
2016 Chevrolet Colorado 4X4 diesel

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #30 –
Just finished installing my new air filter.

I was hoping the old air filter would not have the hole at the and and that would be the reason why my filter minder was not working, but as you can see in the picture it dId.

The filter housing was very dirty on the inside and I vacuumed it out first then wiped it down with a damp cloth several times until clean.

I found the installation of the new filter a little difficult since it is not supported on the inside and you have to lift the filter to get the cover on and maneuver it into place. Pretty sure it's sitting correctly.

I tried to remove the sintered bronze filter but could not break it free. Need to put some penetrating oil on it and will follow up.

Current mileage 113847
Frank & Daisy
NO LONGER  "looking for the perfect Foretravel
36' or less non slide preferred."  She has been found and is ours.
2003 U320 36' non slide  Unit 6103
Cummins ISM 450
Allison 4000MH

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #31 –
The splintered brass fitting is a 1/8 npt and yes I recall mine was tight also. Use a little heat from a propane torch will release the sealer. No need to remove if you can pass air threw it. Replace your vacuator valve, there cheap and if you ever were to be in deep water it will suck it in if it doesn't close. I've been thinking about the vacuator valve and I personally think I will just replace both of mine at filter change out. 10$ is a cheap insurance policy for four years. Yours is half that.
Scott

Re: Engine air filter / canister question

Reply #32 –
Thanks Richard I went out and looked at mine and I have the same hole. I will put a clamp there or plug the hole.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport