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Topic: Charging issues (Read 2426 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Charging issues

Reply #50
Having a tone tracer will make it easier to trace the wires. Could the old alternator been OK and the
problem was no ignition current and no voltage to the sense post.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: Charging issues

Reply #51
The old alternator was not a duvac. Just a regular 160 amp.

Re: Charging issues

Reply #52
If your coach still has the diode-based battery isolator, you MUST use a DUVAC as that external sense wire signals the alternator to put out enough volts to compensate for the voltage loss across the isolator.  The goal is to get the correct charge voltage to the chassis battery (which also gets the correct charge voltage to the house batteries assuming the system is working properly.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charging issues

Reply #53
As Peter suggests, a tone tracer would be handy for checking the wires.  You can buy one for not much $ at the big box stores.  Since your coach has had so many alternator swaps, almost any kind of damage to the OEM wires is conceivable.  Perhaps the wires you have connected to your alternator are not connected to anything on the other end.  Stranger things have happened...

I wouldn't be too resistant to the idea of running a new set of EXCITE and SENSE wires.  It might be the quickest solution.

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Charging issues

Reply #54
I wouldn't be too resistant to the idea of running a new set of EXCITE and SENSE wires.  It might be the quickest solution.

YUP!

Yes, long term, find the other end of both excite and sense, since both are HOT (sense hot all the time, excite ignition hot).
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charging issues

Reply #55
So many comments to try and sort through on here. Im working offy phone. So let me clarify.
Excite wire needs to be hot with ignition on only
Sense wire should be hot all the time?


Sense is E86 and goes to the remote stop button after the cir breaker on isolator panel (there is not one there that i can see)
Excite wire is E6 and goes to circ beaker 35 in the main panel. (It has got to be broke somewhere in between.

Re: Charging issues

Reply #56
You can do what Chuck suggested and run two new  wires and get it going and then you have
lots of time to trace out the old wires and use them later if you want to. Yes to your last question.
Peter and Frieda Morin
1999 36ft. U320 Foretravel
Build # 5436
1998 Suzuki Sidekick Sport

Re: Charging issues

Reply #57
Yes that is correct
previous 1984 35 ft ORED 250 HP 3208 Cat       
previous 1998 40 ft U295 CAI 325 hp Cummins
previous 2003 40 Ft u320 build #6140 450 Cummins M11.                                                         
1999 Mazda Miata
Ron, Nancy, Tipper the cat, Max The dog
1997 U 270 36 ft build number 5174 8.3 Cummins

Re: Charging issues

Reply #58
Sense is E86 and goes to the remote stop button after the cir breaker on isolator panel (there is not one there that i can see)
Looking at the bottom center portion of schematic B-2126 linked below, I would disagree with this statement.  According to the schematic, the SENSE wire is E59 (white) and it goes from the alternator to a 15A circuit breaker on the isolator panel, after which it goes to the START battery post on the isolator.  This same E59 wire is also shown in the small schematic I posted in Reply #46.
 
https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=3297

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Charging issues

Reply #59
I dont have a circuit breaker in the isolator panel. Where is it and what does it look like? There is nothing there but the isolator, the solenoid and the batteries there. I saw all the pix in rhe other alternator posts. My doesn't look like that.

Re: Charging issues

Reply #60
Is it one of these under the bed?

Re: Charging issues

Reply #61
Is it one of these!

Re: Charging issues

Reply #62
It could be one of those in the photo.

You are looking for a circuit breaker exactly like the ones on that big panel near your entry door.  In your photo, there are 2 of them mounted below the silver solenoid (which might be your AUX START solenoid).

I don't know what the two items are in the right side of the photo.

You need to pull back the split wire protector on all those wires and see if you can find any wiring ID labels.  If you find labels, compare the ID numbers to your wiring schematic.  That's the best way to figure out what you are looking at on your coach.

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Charging issues

Reply #63
I have no power to the remote start either. But cant find a clear answer if that supposed to be ignition hot or always hot. I read ten pages in here of Yes and No. With no definitive answer.

Re: Charging issues

Reply #64
Key on only time there is power at the remote start. If the remote start and stop push switches are original I would replace both. Mine shorted out and the stop button killed the Ignition while running on my coach.
Larry
Larry & Debbie Town
2000 U320 4210 
Previous 88 GV

Re: Charging issues

Reply #65
If The E86 wire is supposed be hot all the time as the sense wire, it also goes right to the remote start button which is only ignition hot?
I'm gonna replace with new breakers, relays and remote start Solenoid. All of it looks corroded and crusty.
I can read all the numbers clearly if anyone know what they are.

Still don't understand why the ignition exciter wire is not getting power.

I will have post a picture separately from my phone.

Re: Charging issues

Reply #66
This is all needs worked over.
The one on the left is open or the far left leg! The rest of that bar is hot. Id replace all of it if i just knew what everything is and where it is.

Re: Charging issues

Reply #67
The  bar supplies power the the circuit breaker for the 2 wires on the left. Should be auto reset but am not sure. Get a number off it and buy one.
1999 40 ft. U-320 wtfe build 5563 Chuck & Lynda's "Rollin' Inn"  2030 watts solar
prev. mh's 71 GMC 5 yrs. 73 Pace Setter 1 yr. 78 Vogue 5 yrs 81 FTX 40ft all electric 18 yrs. 1996 Monaco Signature 3 yrs.
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland
Dream as if you will live forever. Live as if you will die today.  James Dean

Re: Charging issues

Reply #68
Yes sir, i get that, the bar gets power from the far right side. The one on the left is not resetting as best i can tell. There are no numbers left on them. Looking at the schematic i believe they are 15 amp.

Re: Charging issues

Reply #69
A looking at the pic. shown the breaker on the left should be 15amps and the one on the right should be 20amp. auto reset.

@ Chuck. The stuff on the right hand panel is due to this coach is a 270.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Charging issues

Reply #70
SO, the left-hand circuit breaker in the photo is open (tripped) and will not reset.

What is the odds one of those two wires on the "load" (non-powered) post of the left-hand circuit breaker might be the SENSE wire?

Any bets?

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Charging issues

Reply #71
Im gonna replace both and probably those two relays as well. Trying to find the numbers for that remote start solenoid and the switches for it.
All of those contacts are sketchy

Re: Charging issues

Reply #72
Trying to find the numbers for that remote start solenoid...
You don't have a separate "remote start solenoid" on your coach.

You DO have a AUX START solenoid (or on some model years a AUX START relay), and you have a BOOST solenoid.  (There is also a STARTER solenoid bolted to the starter, but that's another subject)

At the front end of the coach you have a IGNITION solenoid (either one or two, depending on model year).

If you are talking about replacing the round silver solenoid in your photo, the model usually recommended on the Forum is a Cole Hersee 24213.  It can be used as a AUX START solenoid, and as a BOOST solenoid, and as a IGNITION solenoid.  Works very well in all three applications.

Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid


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1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Charging issues

Reply #73
What is the odds one of those two wires on the "load" (non-powered) post of the left-hand circuit breaker might be the SENSE wire?

Somewhere around %100

Im gonna replace both and probably those two relays as well.

Doing that may fix some of the dash A/C problems.  One of those is for the condenser fan the other is for the compressor clutch.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Charging issues

Reply #74
Trying to find the numbers for that remote start solenoid and the switches for it.
All of those contacts are sketchy

The "Remote Start Switch" operates the same starter solenoid(s) as does the ignition switch.
1992 Foretravel Grand Villa
U225 SBID Build No. 4134
1986 Rockwood Driftwood
1968 S.I.A.T.A. Spring
1962 Studebaker Lark
1986 Honda VF700C
1983 Honda VF750C
Charlie, the Dog was broken out of jail 24 Oct 2023
N1RPN
AA1OH (H)e who must be obeyed.