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Topic: AquaHot electric element breaker popping (Read 1952 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: AquaHot electric element breaker popping

Reply #25
I did some additional testing today.  (#'s from Dan's test steps)


4a) White wire removed from heating element, black connected to element
Result: Breaker did pop, popping noise heard at Aquahot

4b) White wire attached to element, black wire removed from element
Result: Breaker did not pop

If white wire is ground/return and black wire is power, it sounds like something internal (popping noise) is shorted to ground.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: AquaHot electric element breaker popping

Reply #26
4a) White wire removed from heating element, black connected to element
Result: Breaker did pop, popping noise heard at Aquahot

The element has a fault and shorting to ground, thus breaker pops.

Recent activity ("What changed?"):
  • The element was working fine until just recently when we noticed that there was no boiler fluid in the overflow tank. We did add 1.5 gallons of boiler fluid to get the overflow to the right cold and hot levels.

Recent activity ("What changed?"):
  • The element was working fine until just recently when we noticed that there was no boiler fluid in the overflow tank. We did add 1.5 gallons of boiler fluid to get the overflow to the right cold and hot levels.

Very likely the element is getting dry while it has power and burning out.  Possible it was never purged completely of air when the burner was replaced.  I would try and figure out where the 1..5 gallon of fluid went.
2014 ih45  (4th Foretravel owned)
 1997 36' U295 Sold in 2020, owned for 19 years
  U240 36' Sold to insurance company after melting in garage fire
    33' Foretravel on Dodge Chassis  Sold very long time ago

Re: AquaHot electric element breaker popping

Reply #27
I would try and figure out where the 1..5 gallon of fluid went.

A common failure is cracking in the hose from the AH rad cap to the overflow tank, most typically at the radiator cap end.  Fluid goes out when hot but air sucks back in when cold. 

That said, one would more likely see that the AH fluid level never changed (so some fluid still in the overflow tank), rather than a completely dry overflow.  Of course it could be a leak in the overflow tank itself, but you'd think there'd be evidence of this below the tank.
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320