Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Topic: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett] (Read 1858 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #25 – October 20, 2024, 01:32:32 pm

My single biggest concerns is the bolts corroding in place . Please use some type of anti seize

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #26 – October 20, 2024, 01:43:18 pm

Steve,

With those sketches you can see what I was talking about. You have better luck with quick serve than I do. For sure as dsd said make sure you use anti-size on all those bolts the next owner will thank you.

Mike

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #27 – October 20, 2024, 06:10:07 pm

Quote from: steve – October 19, 2024, 07:27:03 pm

the gasket that sits inside the housing. Are there any tricks to installing that gasket? It looks like a lite press fit so, I'm hoping just thumb pressure to seat the new one.

For others with this same question.

The new gasket that goes inside the thermostat housing is a press fit. After poking at it, I realized there is no step that the gasket rests/seats on, its a straight through hole in the casting. So the easy way to remove it was to tap it down into the housing, then you can wrap a finger around it and pull it out.

Its beyond thumb pressure to insert the new one, at least my thumbs, maybe if you have Hulk thumbs. Instead of gamma radiation, I grabbed a block of wood that just fit in the opening and used the quill on my drill press (mill/drill) to set the new one in place (sorry, I don't have a bearing press). You could also use a small block of wood and slowly tap your way around the perimeter, just do not let the gasket get off plane.

So now we wait for more parts!

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #28 – October 22, 2024, 10:39:37 pm

Quote from: steve – October 19, 2024, 07:27:03 pm

There is a sensor on the lower bolt/stud the I assume is a temperature sensor? Should this be in direct contact with the housing face? What was in place had a small air gap. Anyone know what the proper setup for this?

Did some more investigation on this sensor (on the lower left bolt)

Its the cold start thermostat and is part of the cold stating aid system (Ether Start dash switch)

I'm not sure if its a lockout to prevent activation of the atomizer starting fluid on warm days, but the sensor is part of that overall system. If anyone knows how that functions / interacts with the cold start system, please share!

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #29 – October 23, 2024, 12:07:01 am

It doesn't work when the engine is warm. I thought my ether canister was empty when I bought the coach and bought a new canister. When it still didn't work I by-passed the sensor and disconnected the line to the manifold and it worked from the dash. I never used any co2 to see how cold it needed to get but was able to use it up in the sierra's when it was in the teens outside. I only used it to verify it worked and haven't used it since even it 20 deg. weather it starts fine.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #30 – October 23, 2024, 05:49:11 pm

Thanks @craneman I'll look and see if they are any markings for open/close values. At least I now know what it is and what it does

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #31 – October 23, 2024, 06:09:43 pm

Quote from: Pamela & Mike – October 19, 2024, 07:44:29 pm

Did you find the cooler orifice in the bypass hose?

Finally got a few parts in today so I could get back to this part of the project.

Here is the cooler orifice that goes in the bypass hose, its been on Cummins parts shelf for 6 1/2 years, bet they were glad to finally sell one !

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #32 – October 29, 2024, 06:37:05 pm

Finished replacing the bypass hose with the new orifice in place (reflection of orange hose is deceiving; the orifice is silver not rust-colored).

After you remove the 3 bolts that hold the water pump in place, and the 2 that hold the transfer flange, you can rotate the water pump JUST enough to slide the transfer tube out of the water pump. To be honest I fumbled around for a bit before I could get that tube free, lots of wiggling and a jiggling, not to mention what I was doing to the water pump. It should be obvious, but to rotate the pump you need to remove the lower radiator hose/tube. I already had that off as part of the hose replacement fun.

Thanks to @oldmattb for sending me a replacement O-ring, I was able to replace the old existing one in the transfer tube. I found that old O-ring to be crusty, went to remove it from its groove and it just snapped. The flange gasket (still stuck on the block) was also toast and came off in little dried out chunks.

Cleaned the parts up, replaced the seals, reversed the disassembly process, torqued everything back to spec, used new CT clamps everywhere. Now back to replacing the hoses.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #33 – October 29, 2024, 09:17:49 pm

Steve was there an orifice in the bypass hose already and you replaced it? or it was never there and you added it? What is the disc made of and what keeps it in position in the bypass hose? I'm wondering about the specific purpose of this, is it to force more coolant into the trans cooler when the thermostat is closed? I'm confused.
Also wondering if you could list all of the parts you used for this project and what did you wind up doing about the non-available hump hoses. I just noticed in your earlier reply you listed a possible replacement but that one is 2 1/4" diameter whereas the originals are 2 1/2". I don't see how that would work.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #34 – October 29, 2024, 10:25:13 pm

Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter. You rotate it off to change the filter. Since your in that area they make a factory improved shaft that wont break like the OEM 20 year old one will. I have the info in my coach about 200 feet away. Can't get there yet with the knee to get numbers. Will look more tomorrow for it.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #35 – October 29, 2024, 10:42:09 pm

George, if I remember right, that restrictor reduces the flow of coolant in the system to allow the temperature to reach the thermostat set point. I might not have said that right, but it's something like that.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #36 – October 29, 2024, 10:49:47 pm

Quote from: dsd – October 29, 2024, 10:25:13 pm

Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter. You rotate it off to change the filter. Since your in that area they make a factory improved shaft that wont break like the OEM 20 year old one will. I have the info in my coach about 200 feet away. Can't get there yet with the knee to get numbers. Will look more tomorrow for it.

A quick search of the forum turns up p/n 3010536, but it shows for the 8.3/ISC. Is it the same p/n for the ISM?

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #37 – October 29, 2024, 10:51:08 pm

Unknown. Ill try to get down to the coach in the morning

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #38 – October 30, 2024, 09:30:37 am

Quote from: Geodmann – October 29, 2024, 09:17:49 pm

Steve was there an orifice in the bypass hose already and you replaced it

It was missing so I had to add it. The bypass hose was not original so I can only suspect whomever replaced it before (maybe during a thermostat change) did not know or notice the orifice and into the trash it went.

Quote from: Geodmann – October 29, 2024, 09:17:49 pm

Also wondering if you could list all of the parts you used for this project and what did you wind up doing about the non-available hump hoses

I'll do that later today, I have a couple of pictures I'll post as well. You are right, all of the hump hoses are 2-1/2". I probably had 2-1/4" on my mind as that is what the upper elbow uses, and the only one I did not replace as it was new.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #39 – October 30, 2024, 09:34:53 am

Quote from: dsd – October 29, 2024, 10:25:13 pm

Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter.

Best to change it out now while its empty.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #40 – October 31, 2024, 08:43:06 pm

Latest progress.

I ended up replacing all of the hose clamps. There were several I was going to reuse, but after I cleaned and inspected them, I found one with a cracked Belleville washer stack and a couple that no longer turned smoothly. The best of the old ones are in our roadside spares box. I purchased the new clamps from CAP Hardware which had the best price I could find (yes you will pay ~$8.50 per clamp)

The upper radiator hose, (2 1/4" x 16" Elbow); I left unchanged as it had been recently changed to an Automann 561.18225. I believe the OEM was a Purosil 90-225-M2 which was superseded by Purosil 90-225-MK2

The (3) hump hoses (2) on the radiator and (1) on the water pump are the unavailable Gates 23562. I found plenty of 2-1/2" x 4" hump hoses but the Gates was a 4-1/2". That is not much of a difference, but the Breeze HD clamps do not give you much wiggle room on the short fittings, that extra 1/4" is handy. I went with 2-1/2" x 6" hump hose from American Cooling Solutions.

I cut them to length (where needed) by lightly tightening a hose clamp where I wanted to cut and then used the clamp a a guide for a razor knife (use a new blade!). It cuts easy and only takes a few times around, don't try to do it all at once.

The remaining hoses are the transmission cooling ones that I purchased at O'Reilly (best coupons at the time). Gates21400 and the Gates 21472 that you will need to cut to fit.

While I was "at it", some of the CAC hoses had previously been changed before we bought the coach and I was not completely happy with them (or their installation.) I changed them (they were a no-name brand) back to the OEM 4" Silicone Charge Air Hose

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #41 – November 06, 2024, 12:32:44 pm

Quote from: Michelle – October 29, 2024, 10:49:47 pm

A quick search of the forum turns up p/n 3010536, but it shows for the 8.3/ISC. Is it the same p/n for the ISM?

Bumping to see if we have confirmation on the p/n so I can start shopping.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #42 – November 06, 2024, 01:16:27 pm

M

I must have missed this earlier, but that shaft won't fit our M-11. Now it might fit your newer engine BUT if you are going to change to extended life antifreeze why not just put a blank disc (not a no SCA filter) on the housing and forget about it. Some may say Oh you have to have the filter to get out casting sand. Well a 10 year old boy passes more at one time than flows through that filter. If you have casting sand left after this length of time you have bigger problems.

Mike

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #43 – November 06, 2024, 01:40:56 pm

Quote from: Pamela & Mike – November 06, 2024, 01:16:27 pm

M

I must have missed this earlier, but that shaft won't fit our M-11. Now it might fit your newer engine BUT if you are going to change to extended life antifreeze why not just put a blank disc (not a no SCA filter) on the housing and forget about it. Some may say Oh you have to have the filter to get out casting sand. Well a 10 year old boy passes more at one time than flows through that filter. If you have casting sand left after this length of time you have bigger problems.

Mike

I would be one who would use a filter blank (full filtration, no SCA) when going with one of the OAT based coolants BUT would change it every other year. Crud can break loose even in a 10 year old engine and its cooling system.

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #44 – November 17, 2024, 08:11:03 pm

Quote from: dsd – October 29, 2024, 10:25:13 pm

Not going to like this. There is a factory plastic shut off valve on the coolant filter. You rotate it off to change the filter. Since your in that area they make a factory improved shaft that wont break like the OEM 20 year old one will. I have the info in my coach about 200 feet away. Can't get there yet with the knee to get numbers. Will look more tomorrow for it.

Sorry tomorrow came today. My mind said yes and my knee just laughed. Sorry for the extended delay. And as you can see I have not installed yet so I haven verified its correct, but thought I got the number from Cummins

Re: Prepping for coolant flush/fill [was Dedicating this photo to Brett]

Reply #45 – November 20, 2024, 10:07:02 am

I did test (not inspect) the valve and it does turns freely.

Lumbering through Quick Serve for my ESN and finding the Option Detail was called the "Corrosion Resistor" (WF2031-02) I'm coming up with a P/N 3818849 / Shaft, Shutoff Valve. For completeness, that also uses P/N 3818885 / O-Ring and P/N 205363 / Spring Washer.

I'm guessing there was a change to that head between our two model years.

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