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Topic: A/C Power Distribution (Read 1418 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: A/C Power Distribution

Reply #25
Chad,

I have a 96 and you have a 98, so the 120 vac electrical should be similar.  I have not had any problems, but have studied the system some.  This is the way I understand it works.  First there is an automatic transfer switch that selects between shore and generator and sends power to the main panel.  The main panel powers the air conditioners, some outlets in the bedroom, the refrigerator heater element,  sends power to the inverter/charger and anything else that has a breaker in the main panel.  When 120  is available at the inverter/charger there is a relay or some sort of device IN the inverter/charger that sends it right back to the subpanel.  At the same time the inverter/charger is working as a charger.  Whatever is on the subpanel gets power and everything with a breaker in the subpanel should be getting power.  If 120 is not available from shore or generator and the inverter switch is on, the subpanel only will be powered; air conditioners, refrigerator,  outlets at the bed or any other item that gets power from the main panel  should not be powered.  The refrig should not work electrically but should work using propane with the inverter on as 12 vdc is always available at the refrig for control.  If you have an outlet tester (the plug in type with 1 red and 2 yellow lights) you should be able to tell if power is available at the outlet behind the refrig (accessable from the outside air inlet panel).  Sounds like you know all this anyway, but hope it helps.
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt

Re: A/C Power Distribution

Reply #26
Based on all the reading and analyzing and especially noting that you are hoping that it is NOT the transfer switch, here is my suggestion.
Kill the power at the pedestal, shut off the generator and turn off the inverter.
Go to your primary electrical box and shut off the breaker to the inverter.
Go to the inverter and remove the inspection cover where the 110volt wiring goes in and out of the box/inverter.
Check to see what kind of connectors they used to tie the 110volt wires together in that box.
My guess is that they are Twist-On type connectors and I suggest that you loosen them and then screw them back on tightly.  (if you had a meter, you could test for power here).
Driving vibrations could have loosened the connectors on the incoming line from the primary box and you would not have any power even though you had it everywhere else.
(We are assuming that the transfer switch INSIDE THE INVERTER is working OK)
Your inverter would work OK because it draws energy from the battery (althogh not for long if you can't charge the batteries) and your receptacles would be powered.
That's my guess for what its worth.
Good luck.
Regards,
JON TWORK KB8RSA
Full Time RVer (10+ Years) & Dedicated Boondocker
Retired, Unemployed, Homeless Transients
1996 Foretravel U270-36 w/24' Timberwolf Trailer
I firmly believe that tomorrow holds the possibility for new technologies, astounding discoveries, and a reprieve from my remaining obligations.
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Re: A/C Power Distribution

Reply #27
Thanks, Jerry;
I imagine the ;96 and '98 were quite similar, however I have no outlets (other than behind the fridge) that are powered from the main-breaker panel. You've told me a couple of things I didn't know (a couple of many I imagine) for example that there are both inverter and "shore" outlets behind the fridge; I moved the fridge plugs which connected it to shore. I suspect it got moved with I replaced the coil on the unit awhile back. I've looked for the relay-reset on the inverter; it was suggested by Barry (I believe) that if that's popped, that could be the problem with the sub-panel not getting power from the #2 ATS. I have only a single reset-button on the inverter and pushing it does nothing, so I assume it's not tripped and not the problem.

Good comments, and I do appreciate it!
Chad & Judy
'98 U320 - Build #5315
Motorcade 16317
Wickenburg, AZ

Re: A/C Power Distribution

Reply #28
Quote
RE "I imagine the ;96 and '98 were quite similar, however I have no outlets (other than behind the fridge) that are powered from the main-breaker panel"

Most coaches of your year have a non-inverter outlet in space that would hold a washing machine, often behind drawers near a closet that may have louvered doors..
The reason there are inverter and non-inverter outlets behind fridge, is the fridge heating element uses non-inverter and fridge built-in ice-maker used inverter outlet.

Re: A/C Power Distribution

Reply #29
Barry;
We have a Washer; forgot to mention that and it's also off the Main Bus, and powered. We removed the ice-maker, however the two plugs for the fridge were reversed. That question answered. I picked up a Sears/Craftsman digital multi-meter and will start checking through the system with it today. Still feel the symptoms suggest the culprit is most likely the primary relay(s) on the #2 ATS, which is essentially inaccessible without first removing the #1 ATS.
Thanks to all for the patient advice.
Chad & Judy
'98 U320 - Build #5315
Motorcade 16317
Wickenburg, AZ

Re: A/C Power Distribution

Reply #30
A "curious" question; which power-lead on the Dometic fridge powers the interior light? The heater lead, or .... ?

Thanks!
Chad & Judy
'98 U320 - Build #5315
Motorcade 16317
Wickenburg, AZ

 

Re: A/C Power Distribution

Reply #31
12-volt house battery wire that runs to back of fridge control panel also powers fridge light and high-humidity heater.

When fridge is on electric is uses a not-on-inverter 120-volt heater instead of a propane flame.
Inverter 120-volts are used turn ice-maker motor which pulls ice from tray.