Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Bulging (Read 1278 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Bulging

Reply #25 –
The sidewalls on our coaches are steel, only the overhead framing structure is aluminum.
Don
Quote from: bbeane –
My bad aluminum sidewall studs, magnet no workee.
The selected media item is not currently available.
Don & Tys
1999 U270 3602 WTFE #5402
Xtreme Stage 1 w/Headlight, Step Conversion, etc.
2009 Honda Fit Sport with Navi
Freedom is NOT "just another word for nothing left to lose"... with apologies to Kris Kristofferson

Re: Bulging

Reply #26 –
Quote from: dub –
... on a night when there is lots of humidity and dew I can see the outlines of the side support studs... that is odd. when the condensation dries off  obviously the outline goes away..
I've come to admire the sturdy superstructure that is revealed on the outside surfaces as temperature and humidity change. :)
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Bulging

Reply #27 –
The easy cheap way to bring back a high quality gloss to any fiberglass gel coat is the use of, 1st. Bar Keepers Friend and White Light Duty 3M Scotch Brite Pads.  Now that's done use Zep Wet Look, works a heck of a lot better than wax.
Steve & Nancy Snow
1987 GV 40'

Re: Bulging

Reply #28 –
I have seen resin injection not work and make a big mess a lot more than times it has worked. That is why I did not detail the procedure originally. I have been working in and around resins and fiberglass for 45 years and I wouldn't attempt it on my Foretravel unless it was an emergency fix of some sort.

If you do try the injection method, doing it as Pierce suggests, a very small spot on the steel frame, is the safest way. For a full rebonding process someone trained in injection will tell you to drill a hole at the bottom of the delam and a vent at the top, screw in a zerk fitting in the bottom hole and buy and use a throw-a-way grease pump to fill the delam. Pump in the resin until it weeps at the top vent. YOU NEED TO USE A LOW VISCOSITY RESIN DESIGNED FOR INJECTION AND A HARDENER RELATIVE TO THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE OR YOU WILL REALLY HAVE A MESS. If the blister is bowed out too much, press it in before you inject. You want a thin layer of resin that will remain flexible.

As you press the fiberglass to the substrate you will have to keep removing the outflow from the vent hole so make sure you have a soft plastic scraper, solvent that will be active on the resin but not harm the fiberglass and plenty of rags. Try to obtain at least 40 lbs of pressure against the side of the delam. As the resin starts to set up, remove the zerk fitting and fill the hole with compatible body putty, don't fill the vent until the resin is solid then fill with compatible body filler. My best guess is you have a less than 50% chance of success after two years of use.

Regarding delamination vs disbonding, they are the same thing. Once in a great while one will see interlaminary failure where the fiberglass sheet itself separates but that is very rare and usually due to a dry layup. To my knowledge, Foretravel walls are bonded to both the steel box frame and the Foam filler at the factory. If the frame should start to rust it will cause a delam of to the surface of the rusted steel to the wall and eventually due to movement break the bond of the foam to the wall.

My 93 Unihome had a full 1/4" thickness of fiberglass under the drivers window when Rance performed an invisible repair caused by some rust on the frame. Also, it is my understanding the the Unihomes have a steel roof frame just like the side walls. Does anyone know this to be untrue?
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback

Re: Bulging

Reply #29 –
While it is possible to successfully rebond to a substrate, it's always something of a crapshoot.  I've never seen anyone pump resin with a grease gun but I have seen a 65' boat resin infused under vacuum at one shot.  An amazing process, the chances of something going very wrong are always there in which case you throw away the entire boat, thousands of dollars worth of bleeder cloth, laminating film, tubing, drums of catalyzed resin, possibly the mold itself and most likely pay dearly in disposal fees to boot.  But when it works it's grand. And no VOCs.

Turns out I've got some separation in and around the dryer vent area also.  I intend to fix it only because I'm afraid separation will spread if it's not dealt with, it's barely noticeable as is.  Plan A is to drill some very small holes up high, inject epoxy, spread it with pressure from a laminate roller and aid of gravity, clamp in a fashion similar to Calflash Bob's description.  And hope for the best.  Don't see too much chance for catastrophe but the potential is always there when you're dealing with the sticky stuff.  Worst case, it'll have to have the current Foretravel fix, cutting away the laminate and laying up new.  Will report on process and results when it's done.
"Not so  long ago we were a nation of risk takers, riding five million pounds of  thrust straight into space."  Joe Gresh
Chuck Pearson
1996 U295
2018 Can Am X3 TurboRS

Re: Bulging

Reply #30 –
Dryer vent only common Delamination area on FT
Tim Fiedler    2025 LTV Unity MBL on Order
2000 Chevy Tracker 2 Door Convertible 4WD Now lifted 4.5"
1985 Citroen 2CV6 Charleston
Murphy Rebel on wheels with 175HP Titan
Cessna P337
1980 48' Westport MY (!/4 Share)

Re: Bulging

Reply #31 –
I hope everyone understands that I DON'T recommend epoxy injection and the method I described was a DIY approach only. If you ever saw a so called pro doing that to your equipment, run don't walk away with your coach.
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback
 

Re: Bulging

Reply #32 –
I'm considering all ideas.... also considering leaving it alone if it doesn't get any worse because it doesn't look like a defect.. You can't tell unless you push in on the sideing and it doesn't give but a little... Move the coach and it may be flush with the underside.. will add that pushing in on the siding.. the surface underneath feels solid...I do give thanks to all the participation.. I have learned and hope others have as well.
Dub McBride 1996 270