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Topic: Starting Problems (Read 1071 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Starting Problems

Reply #25 –
Quote from: Dwayne –
Anyone ever taken one of these off?
This article may be of interest:  Starter Solenoid Repair - Copper Solenoid Contacts - 8-Lug Magazine
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Starting Problems

Reply #26 –
Quote from: Chuck & Jeannie –
Are you talking about a "solenoid" or a "relay".  I can't think of any reason to have a heavy duty solenoid involved in the A/C operation. 
Yeah... it' s more "relay" sized. But it looks the same on a diagram. :P

Craig
1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."
 

Re: Starting Problems

Reply #27 –
You can use a stiff - and insulated - wire to jumper across the "start" solenoid on the isolator board. Mine is located farthest inboard on that board and has some pretty good-sized wires on it. Until I replaced it with a Blue Sea model I was swapping them out every few weeks.

Take care though. Shorting that solenoid bypasses all the transmission-gear-position safety features and the engine will start even if it's in gear!!! If you do this, be sure to chock for both forward and reverse movement!!!

Craig
1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."