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Topic: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining (Read 2231 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #20
I think you made the better choice with "black polyurethane sealer".  Due to time, location, and weather I did the easy way out with clear silicone seal.  I may regret silicone in the future if I seek a permanent fix with Extreme in Nacogdoches.  (I did make sure to keep the silicone off the exterior paint).

It does appear to me that with any type seal, every time the slide bladder is replaced this will need to be redone again.



Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #22


Thanks for the suggestion. Just out of curiousity why 4200 semi permanent instead of 5200 permanent?
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Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #23
3M 4200 fast cure will stick and seal very well, is UV resistant, is tough but when it comes time to remove it it can be removed.  Not easily but with some work it comes off.  The 3M 5000 is much tougher and nearly impossible to get off.  It cures slower. The 5000 is used as an adhesive to bond internal bulkheads to the hull in boats, even where they are in water.  I used it to glue my deck boards to the joists on my deck 18 years ago.  Very few have come loose, only where not enough was used.  No nails or screws.

There are other products out there that folks will recommend like SikaFlex and M1.  I don't have as much experience with those.  The white M1 looks dirtier after some time than the 3M 4200 where I have used it.  Where this application is inthe slide opening I would likely use black.  Tape around the opening carefully to minimize cleanup.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #24
My concern would be to not use some solution (seal) that hardens so much that it creates a whole new issue when slide bladders need to be replaced in the future.

Heating and cooling, and slide coming in and out seems to call for some flexibility in the sealant used as well?

The solution as of now is to use a very small bead of sealant between the outer edge of the bladder (non inflatable edge) and outer layer of fiberglass.  If that is a super hard seal, what happens when a bad bladder is removed, and a new bladder installed?  Will there now be a bad seal of the edge (again), or will it interfere with removal of old and placement of new?

The "best" solution is likely to add 2 or 3 days to bladder replacements, and do a permanent fiberglass fix of the entire wall surround around (the entire cutout) in the slide cutout.  Major expense and time versus simply pealing back the bladder edge sealant when removing a bad bladder, placing the new bladder in, then resealing bladder edge to outer layer of fiberglass.

I went with  silicon I know has flexibility, and can be pealed back during slide bladder replacement. 

I assume there has to be a perfect permanent fix - and my bet is it involves removing the entire slide, and then new fiberglass applied, healing time, and then finally installing a new bladder.

For a self fix, I even thought of flowing Elmer's wood glue down into the worst portion of the separated outer layer (bottom of side cutout only), let that heal, then top with flexible sealant.  And I personally decided to seal top to bottom on the verticle, as well as the bottom horizontal edge of the slide cut out.  Due to water flow, the bottom of the cutout, and the curve of the bottom, is where most water will penetrate.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #25
Slide bladder replacement isn't a continual maintenance issue, so i wouldn't  be overly concerned about removal of caulking.  I used polyurethane that is UV resistant and feel certain that when the time comes it can be removed with a knife blade.

I periodically check the the entire slide opening edge to make sure that it is still sealed using a flashlight at night.  For me with cataracts it's almost impossible to accomplish that in daylight due to the white sidewall reflecting sunlight while trying to peer into the black slot.................way too much contrast.

I also got better results doing the caulking at night with a flashlight. YRMV

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #26
It looks like the bond between the outer skin and the frame is failing.  If there is any gap it should get filled with a new adhesive and some clamping pressure applied.  Then a thin layer can be applied to the frame surface between the bladder and the outer skin.

I haven't done this myself.  It probably seems easier than it is.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #27
I added 35yr exterior caulk in black.. Clean and working find. Worked through the last rains  ^.^d .. Its a slight separation and nothing to be concerned with to much but left undone will cause Havoc on the interior..Thought it was the bladder leaking first go around (really second and third). Finally dawned on me that the water was running down the sides and into the little gap... causing water protrusion.

All Fixed now

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #28
FWIW, the products if choice in the Seattle and Alaska boating community are "Sikaflex" over 4200. Not sure if the company makes a competitor to 3M 5200.
Don't see very much 3M being used in the boatyards and in aircraft floats. But every marine store has copious amounts of various Sikaflex on hand.
That all being said a selection of 3M products is stocked at all Home Droot and West Marine stores.  Doesn't have great shelf live, try to buy either brand where is sells with some regularity.
I used 5200 thinned down on a recently completed aircraft float project, per some info found on user group on web. Was advised later by float manufacturer (Pee Kay) they don't use 3M, they advised Sikaflex now.
Not an expert, just my experience.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #29
Thanks Roger I thought that might be the case but you know what they say about assuming.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #30
Sikaflex will probably work.  It is less expensive that the 3M stuff.  I have a tube to try out but haven't yet.  I did try both black and white M1.  The black was good where I used it. I have a couple tubes of the 3M 5000 left over from my deck project from 18 years ago.  All that have not been opened have been fine when I finally did open them.  Once open if not well sealed they will cure up in the tube.  I usually have one of the small 3 oz tubes with us for what comes up on the road and leave the bigger tubes for projects where it will get used up.

This is one of those projects for which where there are several good choices.  Choose and do.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #31
Black, sticky, not fast drying and highly UV resistant is what's needed.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #32
I have the 3M 4200 on order will give it a try when it gets here. Hopefully I can do it without making a mess.

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #33
Mask off anywhere you don't want 4200. When done peel off tape before it sets up

Tim Fiedler
Gen-Pro.biz
630 240-9139

 

Re: Wet floor bedroom slide area - raining

Reply #34
3M 4200 fast cure will stick and seal very well, is UV resistant, is tough but when it comes time to remove it it can be removed.  Not easily but with some work it comes off.  The 3M 5000 is much tougher and nearly impossible to get off.  It cures slower. The 5000 is used as an adhesive to bond internal bulkheads to the hull in boats, even where they are in water.  I used it to glue my deck boards to the joists on my deck 18 years ago.  Very few have come loose, only where not enough was used.  No nails or screws.

There are other products out there that folks will recommend like SikaFlex and M1.  I don't have as much experience with those.  The white M1 looks dirtier after some time than the 3M 4200 where I have used it.  Where this application is inthe slide opening I would likely use black.  Tape around the opening carefully to minimize cleanup.
Thanks for the advice I used the 4200 black. The sealant was a dream to work with. I have a hard time doing this type of stuff neatly but I taped it all off first and to be honest you really can't tell I did a thing if you didn't know to look for it.