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Topic: Engine water pump (Read 640 times) previous topic - next topic

Engine water pump

So I'am a victim of my own device. My thought has always been, if the parts off in your hand, replace it. This came from a time in high school, when a friend replaced his clutch, then the rear soft plug in the block starting leaking.

So at 8K awesome miles (zero oil leaks I might add) on our rebuilt Cat 3126, the seep hole on the WP it leaking some rusty water. This tells me the bearing is wet and getting rusty, doesn't matter anyway, any liquid coming out of the W/P is not a good sign.

Yup, when I had it in my hands during the rebuild it all crossed my mind, and it is actually the only other part except the Alternator that I didn't replace. Even including the block heater. Call me anal, but I rest my case. But at $300.00 it cooled my jets (pun intended)

So the question is, how much coolant do I need to drain out to change it out? I am sure doing a Cummins is pretty much the same. I look at the radiator, and see how much lower it is. I realize the block, surge tank, and reservoir are all higher.I can drain and catch those.

I have huge clamps for the hoses. So part of me say's pull the hose, clamp it and catch the coolant I can. I have plenty of buckets. I want to save the coolant, it's extended life, and is only 4K miles old.I will filter it putting it back in.

So with that said, and tricks? Draining the radiator takes forever as you know, I always like to take the easy way out, even if it's a bit messy!

Cheers
Chris

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #1 –
I will answer my own question for search history. Drained about 13 gallons from radiator, and coolant tank into clean 5 gallon buckets.Some was still dribbling out. Clamped the heater hose lines. Pulled the pump and lines, got another galloon of misc. coolant.

Pulled the steel tank from the fire wall, per Bruce Beans suggestion. Lots of rust between them, not any holes. Light scrap then wire brush, then rust killer from Napa and some black paint, back in business.

Got a reman genuine Cat water pump from Western Staes Cat. My racer buddy works there, said they have zero issue with them.Comes complete with pulley etc. so just pop it in.

$275.00+tax, $250.00 core.

Going to pump the coolant back in with my 5 gallon bucket oil pump. Yes, it will be clean. Yes I will filter it.

Cheers
Chris

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #2 –
Yep. Been there, done that. Glad you found it before a failure

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #3 –
Used Cat remans for years,good as new.

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #4 –
Just did mine...3176B what a bugger.....1 coach buck in parts

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #7 –
Gotta love them Cats

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #9 –
Best revenge is living well. 

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #11 –
What a waste of $$. A can of water pump lube would have done the trick.  ;)

P

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #12 –
My background is aerospace.  I am proactive and replace parts hopefully prior to failure. 

Re: Engine water pump

Reply #13 –
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –
What a waste of $$. A can of water pump lube would have done the trick.  ;)

P
I do not understand the purpose of water pump lubricants. Are they lubricating the seal?
Most water pump failures, belt driven water pumps, are the result of the side thrust imposed by the belt.

Tim