Re: Bulkheads Reply #25 – December 21, 2019, 11:00:24 am A week ago or so I too found a bit of water behind the pump and by tanks and thought the pump may be leaking, and as I check all areas every day when we are using the coach I thought ok it has just started, so removed the pump and installed a new one I have had for 2 yrs as spare. All seemed fine for a day then uh uh some drops of water so this is not a pump issue. I had Ruth run the pump and water system while I sat watching it all and saw a drop come down from back of the water heater. A quick check thru the hole in the vertical wall of middle bay showed that the hot line coming from top of heater had a drop of water every 5 seconds or so. It seemed tight at the fitting but was able to get about 1/4" rotation on that fitting and leak stopped right away. So, luckily as I check as mentioned there should be no issue with residual water as I dried what was there up.Oldguy, maybe you should just for safety check that location too.JohnH Quote Selected
Re: Bulkheads Reply #26 – December 21, 2019, 01:30:55 pm John, you might consider changing those fittings. Mine where doing that tightened them up several times. The one Sunday tighting up one split, you guessed it in the middle of nowhere. I used watts fittings on them, as you don't have much room. Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Bulkheads Reply #27 – December 21, 2019, 01:47:09 pm With respect to bulkheads, a little bit of water dripped on the basement floor is not cause for ripping the bottom of the coach open, or get gray hair worrying about it. I would venture a guess that all of these coaches of the older vintage have some water damage on the structure. If you open it up might as well be prepared to do what's necessary to repair it. As always JMHO. Quote Selected 5 Likes
Re: Bulkheads Reply #28 – December 21, 2019, 02:11:45 pm Quote from: bbeane – December 21, 2019, 01:47:09 pmWith respect to bulkheads, a little bit of water dripped on the basement floor is not cause for ripping the bottom of the coach open, or get gray hair worrying about it. I would venture a guess that all of these coaches of the older vintage have some water damage on the structure. If you open it up might as well be prepared to do what's necessary to repair it. As always JMHO. Yes, but not just of older vintage. Borescopes that plug into a laptop or iPhone/Android and are a cheap and easy way of looking inside the tubing. Small hole and in they go. Plus, this is a bad time of year to even think about it. If you have interior rust, your problem may be severe depending on how far it extends. No interior rust may mean no rust or only exterior rust that may be treated without replacing sections. Amazon.com: borescopeThis is also another reason I would not consider a northern coach to purchase used. Many cars are protected and look what they look like in Michigan.Pierce Quote Selected
Re: Bulkheads Reply #29 – December 21, 2019, 06:12:57 pm I just finished mine up here is my write up. Take a lot of measurements before cutting or unbolting anythingMy basement rebuild Quote Selected
Re: Bulkheads Reply #30 – December 21, 2019, 06:47:35 pm In answering a couple of PMs about borescopes, here are a couple of tips.It's been a few years but I remember one end being open and then I used a 1/2" drill (I think) on other places in the bottom and then put a plug in.Read the reviews as some are color and the resolution should be as high as possible. They all have LEDs but the brighter the better. You would probably want to be able to save the video or still file and if a photo, print it also. Probably good to have a USB plug at the end. I do remember that I had to do a bit of searching to get the right software for the best resolution. I will post it when I find it. I have a couple of borescopes but my tools are like my glasses, I lose them only to find an old pair a year later.A stud finder should locate the tubing through the bottom cover. I also used a stud finder on the roof to screw down my solar panels.We use the borescopes a lot at aircraft annual time for cylinders and also to check the muffler interiors as the stainless sometimes deforms with age.Think I either filed or drilled at an angle on some so the borescope would slide in as the very end does not bend much.If you replace any/all of the tubes, use Tubeseal ( MIL. SPEC. L-21260) to rustproof the tubing interior. Drill a small hole and use a cow syringe to inject it. It will climb the tube walls. Almost all aircraft builders use it. May be available with a different name but needs the MIL. SPEC L-21260. Folker Aircraft went with a synthetic on their engine mounts but after significant corrosion and several hundred thousand dollars spent for new mounts, went back to the old standard. It is similar to boiled linseed oil but climbs tube walls better. Tubeseal Poly-Fiber - TS - QuartStump, NICE job and photos. Pierce Quote Selected 1 Likes
Re: Bulkheads Reply #31 – December 21, 2019, 07:03:55 pm If you are using a Mac or PC, here are the apps to view, record, etc the video or image from the borescope/endoscope: Downloads - Oasis Scientific Inc. Quote Selected
Re: Bulkheads Reply #32 – November 11, 2020, 07:32:07 pm Could anyone advise the years of Foretravel that had the bulkhead issues.?I do know the late nineties and early 2000's were plagued, as was my 1998 U320with this issue but did the Nimbus models (2006-2010) also have the issues. I presume Foretravel would have solved this by the time the IH45 came along.. Quote Selected
Re: Bulkheads Reply #33 – November 11, 2020, 08:32:47 pm IH-45 came out I believe in 2012. It, the Phenix and Nimbus all three had stainless steel line utility bays. Quote Selected
Topic: Bulkheads