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Topic: Engine Compartment insulation (Read 3210 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Engine Compartment insulation

Reply #25
Pierce, I agree totally with your comments on the DDC temps.  However you recall the chap who used to be a Foretravel salesman in Calif. who keeps telling us he runs the 6V-92 to 240 or 250F and never had an issue, I find that very hard to swallow with the years I have been playing the DDC game.  I sure hope I miss understood his comments, but do feel that is as he stated it.  I always thought the DDEC would prevent such games and shut down.
Maybe he would chime in here and tell us how he does that.
Cheers
Dave M

Re: Engine Compartment insulation

Reply #26
Steve, as we discussed in the Foretravel parking lot, those temps seem a little high unless you are talking about running when the ambient temps are 115 which they can be in the Southwest. My engine runs in the 200 range on extremely hot days. I just don't drive in the hot part of the day when temps are that high and even at 100 degrees I keep my speed down to under 60. If you are seeing temps of 210 on the flat in say 95 degree days, the next time you are back in NAC have the FOT shop check your cooling fans to make sure they are functioning properly. Its possible that the high speed fan rpm is too low or the thermal switch to kick in the high speed is not working properly.

For those of you in other parts of the country, driving during the day in the hottest part of the summer in the southwest is very different from the rest of the country.
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback

Re: Engine Compartment insulation

Reply #27
Quote
One more item.....my Detroit 6V92 seems to run hot when towing. I have a right rear side radiator on my '93 GV. Seems it runs at 200 maybe 210-220 in summer on flat road. I have had the radiator checked out and everything is OK. Is this normal range to run. I never let the temp get in the "red zone" without stopping. In cooler weather it runs around 180-190......any comments or thoughts on this issue?
The "Series 92 Field Service Recommendations" document (see Detroit Diesel Tec Docs Album) shows 210 as the max. operating temperature and "alarm" at 215 for every configuration of road vehicles.  I don't know if your DDEC systems will trigger an engine shut down if it gets to 215.  I know my '91 doesn't but I heard that they added it "in later years".
As others suggested, verify it is really getting that hot.  The dash gauge isn't very accurate and operates on an electrical resistance change.  The higher the resistance the higher the temperature.  So if some resistance (i.e. contact corrosion) is added it will "fail safe" by showing a higher temperature.
A laser infrared thermometer gun is invaluable to help diagnose overheating conditions as well as for general traveling to check tire temperatures at rest stops.  You can easily check the temperature of the output cooling pipes from each head to see if maybe one of the thermostats is acting up - both heads should be within a few degrees.  Another source to get a reading on the temperature is a VMS(SilverLeaf Electronics, Inc. | Knowledge is Horsepower - it reads the DDEC computer directly.  It's my understanding that the temperature sensor used by the DDEC is very accurate.
If it is getting too hot, I would suspect the radiator.  I know you said it was checked out but did they drain the coolant, pull a hose off and look inside with a dental mirror and flashlight?
The radiator needs to be clean on the inside and outside.  Also, the fins need to be firmly attached to the tubes and not crumbling away (typical effect of road salt).
Another thing to check to see if the hydraulic fans are turning at their maximum.  Since my coach is a rear radiator I don't have this type of system so I'm not very knowledgeable on it but here's a discussion on it: Radiator fan
My experience 10 years ago with taking the coach into a shop (typically DD, not FOT) is that they will take a guess as to what it MIGHT be (radiator, water pump, thermostats, fans, etc. etc.).  If it still overheats, you have just wasted money replacing good parts and get to pay them or the next guy more money to guess the next thing.  I now do all my own diagnosis and repairs.  Finding mechanics that know these older engines is getting harder and harder and it seems like all anyone wants to do is start replacing parts without a clue if it will actually fix the problem.  Finding information on the engines was the hardest thing for me but with forums like this that is all changing.  These engines are not hard to work on.  The cooling systems is an in-between land - yes the engine is DD but the cooling system was designed by Foretravel - but I believe Foretravel will want to send you to Detroit Diesel.  I didn't actually try Foretravel because when I was there it was winter and during summer I was too far away.
John Fitzgerald
1991 U300 (SAI) Side Aisle Island Bed 40'
Detroit 6V92 with Allison Retarder
Meridian (Boise), Idaho

 

Re: Engine Compartment insulation

Reply #28
thanks for the info. I had my radiator completely removed, cleaned, flushed......everthing gone through. Good ideas about the fans.......I'll have them checked out, thanks!!  and  also check the temps with a laser. Just learning this stuff and good to get everyone's thoughts!!  Coach always runs good....chances are my temp gauge is off
Steve Mudd
Commander, The Crystal Ship
CEO, Retirement Clearinghouse International
1993 Grand Villa U300 40', Detroit 6V92 Turbo
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sport
2008 Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic
2000 Harley-Davidson Wide Glide
swmudd@aol.com