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Topic: Oil change (Read 2391 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Oil change

Reply #25 –
Hey Ratbug,
I had the same issue on the Kubota the first time I changed the oil & filter. The manual is way off. I seem to recall that a gallon did the trick. These engines defiantly do not like to be overfilled. IMHO any engine is better served running slightly below the dip stick full mark.
The selected media item is not currently available.Bob & Faith Rozek
1997 U320 40'
Xtreme Remodel
2010 Scion XD

Re: Oil change

Reply #26 –
From an article I wrote for FMCA Magazine:

CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIP STICK

We continue to see questions about oil "consumption" and oil on radiators and toads on the FMCA Forum and other RV websites.  It seems to be universal across all brands of diesel engines.

THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE IS AN OVERFILLED CRANKCASE. CALIBRATING THE ENGINE OIL DIP STICK TO ENSURE THE CORRECT OIL LEVEL IN THE PAN "FIXES" OVER 90% OF THESE PROBLEMS.

If you "think" your engine has an oil consumption problem, you are seeing oil mist on your toad or you just want to verify that yours is correct; you need to verify that you are using the correct amount of oil. Note: the quantities listed INCLUDE the oil filter and is the total amount of oil you put in when changing oil and filter.

Now, CALIBRATE THE DIP STICK. Since the same engines/dip sticks are used in many different applications with different angles of installation, do not ASSUME that the dip stick is correctly marked. Calibration costs $0.

At the next oil change, drain oil, remove old filter (as usual). Then install the drain plug and new oil filter and add the engine's correct oil capacity LESS THE NUMBER OF QUARTS you want between the "ADD" and "FULL" marks (let's say 2 quarts). So for an engine with 20 quart capacity you would add 18 quarts. Run the engine a few minutes, shut off and wait until oil has descended into the pan (at least 30 minutes and an hour is safer). Pull the dip stick and use a file or dremel tool to mark the oil level "ADD". Add the remaining two quarts, let the oil settle in the pan, pull the dipstick and mark this the "FULL" mark.

In many/most cases, you will find that your engine "throws out" the access oil and then "consumption" settles down to next to nothing. Put in the correct amount and your "consumption" issues may go away.

This applies to all ages (including brand new) of motorhomes and boats with every brand of engine.

Also, when checking the oil level with the dipstick it is safest to do it in the morning after the oil has had all night to flow back to the pan.

Do not add oil until the level reaches the ADD mark.

Finally, make a sticker to affix near oil fill:  OIL CAPACITY INCLUDING FILTER: xx QUARTS.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Oil change

Reply #27 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
David,

I would suggest a different answer to your oil level on the dipstick.

If you KNOW that you put in the correct quantity of oil per owners manual, then my first assumption would be that you need to re-mark the engine oil dipstick (also called calibrating the engine oil dipstick).

Also, best to check oil level in the morning after it has had overnight to drain back to the sump.

Brett
Excellent advise and -  if you don't know your oil capacity, you can always call Cummins Care at 1-800-343-7357.  Be ready to tell them the model and serial number of you engine.  They will be happy to look it up for you.  And in my case, it was different than the Cummins manual because Foretravel spec'ed a larger oil pan.  My Cummins 5.9 6BT is available with at least 3 different size oil pans.  Cummins Care can actually look up and see what Foretravel spec'ed for the individual engine.
1994 U225
build #4514

Re: Oil change

Reply #28 –
Just for more useless info, all our 5.9BT Series Cummins Engines hold 16 qts/4 gal motor oil.
These are industrial/truck HD engines.
Dave M

Re: Oil change

Reply #29 –
I use the drain valve and six milk jugs.  Getting the fresh oil in that God awful oil fill arrangement on my coach is the challenge.  Must use a funnel with the long plastic hose and stand on my truck tailgate so I'm not holding the gallon jugs up slowly pouring all that oil in at about 1/2 pint per minute (it seems) while also holding the funnel in place.  That is the fun part.  Crawling under to quickly fill each milk jug is a piece of cake.
Dwayne Keith
1992 U240
3116/MD3060

Re: Oil change

Reply #30 –
Dwayne,

Remove that silly long oil fill extension and go to Caterpillar for a regular fill plug (they will need to know the ID of the fill hole in the valve cover).

All you do to fill is lift the bed, put a cut off water bottle in the fill hole as a funnel and as fast as you like, pour in 21 QTS.

Much easier and cleaner.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Oil change

Reply #31 –
Make sure everyone's coach is level before checking oil level.
Regards,
Brett

'99 42' Foretravel Xtreme
'14 Brown Motorsports Stacker
'05 Chevy SSR
'02 BMW R1150R

Re: Oil change

Reply #32 –
Level AND engine off for at least 30 minutes-- checking in the morning when oil has had overnight to drain back to the pan is better.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Oil change

Reply #33 –
Has anyone used oil additives?  I use 20% Lucas Oil for our high mileage vehicles and I'm quite pleased w/ the results.  Is it adviseable or not cost effective?
Bill & Jan Velting
1998 U320 36'    2014 Xtreme facelift
build #5339  MC#17207
current toad: 2014 Cadillac SRX

Re: Oil change

Reply #34 –
Not advisable and not cost effective.
Regards,
Brett

'99 42' Foretravel Xtreme
'14 Brown Motorsports Stacker
'05 Chevy SSR
'02 BMW R1150R
 

Re: Oil change

Reply #35 –
Quote from: amos.harrison –
Not advisable and not cost effective.
X2.  And the oil companies which I hauled bulk products for said that their motor oils had all the additives that they needed in them.  They always  took samples which went throught Lab analysis approval  before leaving the refineries.  Motor oil is all about additives, and the additives are engineered into them.  Adding certain aftermarket additives can degrade motor oils.  I do happen to run Shell Rotella T6, a synthetic, because of their excellent and proven additive package.  I am not a big believer of Lucas products.  Do some research on independant studies their products
1994 U225
build #4514