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Topic: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair (Read 1952 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #25
Pocket change, I understand were you are coming from with your suggestion, but I have learned that things do run smoother with Syn' oils and as I do the change myself etc the cost of the oil is not a killer so just for the heck of it I will do the change over regardless of any "state of oil" analysis. Even if it does not make any "world changing difference" it will not hurt.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #26
back in the "old" days we used to spray chrome on the shafts then regrind them. That was for the big Diesel engines built by Napier in England. Did it on many parts as they were too expensive to throw.
I personnaly did not do the work just the grinding.
JohnH

should have said chromium (if I remember right.
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #27
another option is to machine a wear sleeve to go on the shaft it may require some shaft machining as well but truck wheel seals used a sleeve that on the spindle. It would take a lot of measuring and a really sharp dedicated person to measure and search out a seal.
Toby a 94 u280
Cummins 8.3
6 speed Allison
Exhaust brake


Adopted by Derek and Annabelle

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #28
Still new to our coach I have been noticing all the air and hyd lines,some of you probably know this but the ones with the non-
compression fittings can be rebuilt easily,could probably re-use the fittings and have some bulk hose for emergency use.
Good source for hose and fittings would be hose of south texas in Corpus Christi.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #29
It would take a lot of measuring and a really sharp dedicated person to measure and search out a seal.
And keep in mind, all the really sharp dedicated people these days charge at least $100 per hour, regardless of results!
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #30
On the subject of synthetic oils for the hydraulic pump, I followed a study of the synthetics versus normal oil several years ago. The study came to the conclusion, to which I adhere, that the synthetics and the normal oils did basically the same job and under normal use the added expense was not worth it. EXCEPT........for extreme cold ( Siberia perhaps?) and extreme heat (hell). The synthetics viscosity held up better than the normal oil.

I do use synthetic in my Harley which is air cooled and does get really hot in traffic, but have not used it elsewhere. 
1994 U280, Build 4490
Deming, NM.

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #31
Has anyone tried using a synthetic oil in the hyd system yet? If you use the same oil weight etc.I don't think it would hurt

I replaced the diesel oil in my hydraulic system with hydraulic oil. My reasoning is this is a hydraulic system and the hydraulic oil probably has better additives suited for that purpose!
1998 U270 34'

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #32
Keep in mind, typical Hydraulic Systems in RV use are not a "heavy duty" application. 
These RV systems are on the small end of the scale.  In fact, compared to the typical PS pump in an auto these pumps are not much larger in spite of the extra service they provide.  A pump being rebuilt for use in a motor home is in most instances on the  small end of the hydraulic pump family by design.  They don't need to be any larger.  Serviced correctly these pumps will perform their design function for a long time with or without the use of synthetic fluids if simply maintained.  You will have to replace worn hydraulic line(s) more often than replacing seals, which has nothing to do with "rebuilding" the pump.
The design of the application in most instances are less than properly thought out.  Many of the issues stem from the pump assembly not being (properly) secured in the first place which results in issues with excessive vibration. 
Rectify this issue and a fair percentage of pump problems go away.  pc
S/W Houston 95" U320C SE/40' 
Build #4778  Cummins M11
Repairs & Covered RV Parking (BAO)
PPL is close..

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #33
Keep in mind, typical Hydraulic Systems in RV use are not a "heavy duty" application. 
These RV systems are on the small end of the scale.  In fact, compared to the typical PS pump in an auto these pumps are not much larger in spite of the extra service they provide.  A pump being rebuilt for use in a motor home is in most instances on the  small end of the hydraulic pump family by design.  They don't need to be any larger.  Serviced correctly these pumps will perform their design function for a long time with or without the use of synthetic fluids if simply maintained.  You will have to replace worn hydraulic line(s) more often than replacing seals, which has nothing to do with "rebuilding" the pump.
The design of the application in most instances are less than properly thought out.  Many of the issues stem from the pump assembly not being (properly) secured in the first place which results in issues with excessive vibration. 
Rectify this issue and a fair percentage of pump problems go away.  pc

Great Point, Thank You and I will add a bracket,
Andrew Buras
Full Timing Since July 2007
1995 U-300 Lived in it for 14 years and now back in it.
Build #4627
Towing 2015 Ford Flex
Still on the road

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #34
FYI, the bracket on later models, like my 1998, is really beefy. Almost 1/4 steel with 4 grade 8 bolts holding it to the engine. It doesn't move, I assure you.  And my pump is slowly weeping...and one motor is weeping a bit more.
1998 U270 34'

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #35
FYI, the bracket on later models, like my 1998, is really beefy. Almost 1/4 steel with 4 grade 8 bolts holding it to the engine. It doesn't move, I assure you.  And my pump is slowly weeping...and one motor is weeping a bit more.
How long has the pump been weeping oil?
Andrew Buras
Full Timing Since July 2007
1995 U-300 Lived in it for 14 years and now back in it.
Build #4627
Towing 2015 Ford Flex
Still on the road

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #36
My 96 u270 has the heavier bracket,I wonder if the tensioner could be causing a problem,as the spring wears it seems
that you see more of a jerking movement.
96 U270 BUILD 4810
85 380SL
Drummonds TN.

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #37

I've had the RV just over a year. It was tiny bit damp when I bought it. It's just a little more damp now.

The tensioner was bouncing, but it wasn't due to a worn tensioner. The drive pulley on the crank shaft was not mounted concentric. I had to loosen the bolts and center it up.
1998 U270 34'

 

Re: Hydraulic Pump Replacement or Repair

Reply #38
The drive pulley on the crank shaft was not mounted concentric. I had to loosen the bolts and center it up.

Yes, an easy thing to check with a straight edge with engine idling.  I hold  a piece of white chalk with the straight edge and slowly move toward the pulley.  Let it mark the "most run-out".  Stop the engine, remove the belt, loosen the pulley mounting bolts and slightly move the pulley.

Repeat until minimal run-out.

But tensioners do TWO things:  Provide tension and dampening.  Here is a good video by Gates Corp on that subject: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTLV5IU_IMM
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020