Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 28, 2025 ...

Re: Wheel Studs Won't Torque

Reply #25 – August 20, 2015, 06:51:15 pm

Richard,

Let us know what was done.  I searched for Meritor studs using Barry's part # and found that 20X1873 is probably for the driver side with a LH thread and 20X1874 for the passenger side with a RH thread.  List price about $64 each.  They may be available for more or less.  There are many different styles of Meritor studs.  I did witness brake rotor replacement on rear wheels.  It's a double stud with threads on both ends.  The rotor is secured with pinch (self locking) nuts.  Very difficult to remove if they have become rusty.  No room for an impact wrench;  regular wrench and big hammer.  No finger turning wrench them off and on.  I don't know if the stud has a shoulder, taper, or is pressed into the hub.  They didn't turn when the rotor nuts were taken off.  No idea if the front wheel stud is the same as the rear wheel, other than being a double stud. 

Editing this post.  Looked again at the list price and you get 4 studs instead of one.  This is the site.  http://pricing.cccparts.com/Web%20files/2014/07/JB-ROK-070114.pdf  Part is on page 67.

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Re: Wheel Studs Won't Torque

Reply #26 – August 20, 2015, 06:59:35 pm

I called Commercial Brake in Fife Washington gave them Meritor p/n 20 x 1873... $37 for a package of 4. 2 days out
 p/u their location.

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Re: Wheel Studs Won't Torque

Reply #27 – August 20, 2015, 08:27:11 pm

Tim, yes — although I had heard that the back of the studs was serrated, you're right.  Snider Tire's fix was to drive the stud in from the front, then immobilize the ________  (backing plate? Whadda you call the disc the studs penetrate?) with a 36" tire iron anchored on the ground and the remainder of the bar "threaded" through the studs on the front of the plate. 

That allowed the mechanic to use a large box-end wrench to tighten the nut of the back. The problem with the 4th was that the threads were apparently were stripped.  Nut just turned but didn't tighten.  I'll call James Holder tomorrow and introduce myself (I understand he's a Foretravel owner?), in hopes they can see if they have parts or get them in by the time I'm there.  I've been talking with Brad Armstrong, who has been great setting up the visit.

Other stuff:  good to find other Forum members with aviation backgrounds. Tim:  I have toy envy, too, now that I'm out of that business.  The PC-12 was a useful airplane.  No problem with Class B traffic and approach speeds at SFO (we were based at SQL), but we also took it into back country strips in Oregon and Idaho to drop off dotcom guys who wanted to wind surf the Columbia River or fish the Middle Fork of the Salmon.  Good fun.

May need an aviation thread in "Around the Fire Ring."  Would love to hear the stories Jetpack talked about.  As for vintages, ah yes!  2007 was a lovely year in for Barolo, Brunello, and Napa Cabs.  Any other wine enthusiasts in the group?  Another "Fire Ring" topic.

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Re: Wheel Studs Won't Torque

Reply #28 – August 20, 2015, 09:15:23 pm

Was affiliated with Cubcrafters for two years. Lots of fun out west with Carbon Cubs. Annual owners open house Oregon Aero came every year with one of there two Pc-12's. 2400 ft turf, no problem

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Re: Wheel Studs Won't Torque

Reply #29 – August 20, 2015, 09:59:55 pm

When our rear stud was "yielded" (stretched) from running the impact too tight and later broken when trying to remove the wheel nut, the bad one was removed with a home-made tool that acted like a very short turn-buckle.  One end was pressed against the rotor and the other end attached to the rear of the stud, after the rear nut was removed.  Extending the turn-buckle pushed the stud out of its pressed fit.  Installing the new stud just required tightening the rear nut to press fit the stud into the axle end.

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Re: Wheel Studs Won't Torque

Reply #30 – August 20, 2015, 11:16:22 pm

These are on E-Bay
Regards,Irwin

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Re: Wheel Studs Won't Torque

Reply #31 – August 21, 2015, 07:44:58 am

Just a thought or two for those thinking of getting a deal on studs that you may or may not be able to use.

Foretravel motorhomes and most trucks used "Stud Pilot" rims until the late nineties, (some time around '97 for FT) then began using "Hub Pilot" rims.

"Stud Pilot" rims have tapered stud holes in the rim with tapered nuts, like most cars do, and the nut taper centers the wheel on the hub.

"Hub Pilot" rims have holes with no taper and flat nuts, but have a carefully sized center hole which is a snug fit on a ridge which is carefully machined onto the hub. This center hole centers the rim on the hub.

Check what you have on you coach because the two types aren't interchangeable. Here is a link to a  Euclid catalog that may help someone cross reference part numbers.

http://www.truckhub.us/yahoo_site_admin/assets/docs/Euclid100DWheelAttachingPartsX-Ref.96161249.pdf

Pamela & Mike

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