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Topic: Exterior RV outlet (Read 1504 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Exterior RV outlet

Reply #20 –
That is right unless your local code required a GFCI breaker at the source (unusual).

The thinking is that the 30 and 50 amp connections are dedicated single outlets, plugged in and unplugged once in a while.  The 20 amp outlet is a duplex outlet, not dedicated, used more often.

Every duplex outlet in my shop is GFCI protected.  All of the 20 and 30 amp, 120v and 220v single outlets (stationary equipment, dust collecion, air compressor, heat, AC etc)  are not.  Meets code.

Re: Exterior RV outlet

Reply #21 –
My shop was wired similar to Roger's.  Each piece of equipment was on a single circuit with a 100 amp box from the house.  RV was parked next to the house so just added a circuit for 30 and 50 amp.  Had a lockable power disconnect mounted between the RV outlet and the Main box in the house.

I miss my shop on occasion.  Was nice to hear the machines.  Welding would be cool.  :D 

Re: Exterior RV outlet

Reply #22 –
15 and 20 amp "general purpose" outlets located outside are required to have GFCI protection. This is because they are used for portable cord connected equipment such as drill motors, saws, grinders, ect. and commonly have extension or drop cords plugged in them. It's there for personal protection not equipment protection. Not usually required for "dedicated" 3 wire connected equipment.

I know most of our Forum members already know this........just thought I would add my 2 cents worth.      ;D

Re: Exterior RV outlet

Reply #23 –
Scott, you are welcome to visit to my shop anytime.  And make noise if you want.  And welding too.

Roger

Re: Exterior RV outlet

Reply #24 –
Picked up the 2017 code check electrical book so per 210.8A3 ALL 15 & 20A recpticles in garages and accessory building are to be GFCI. I believe it used to have eceptions for equipment and ceiling mounted outlets for garage door openers.

Re: Exterior RV outlet

Reply #25 –
Quote from: Old phart phred –
Bob, you ran 2 awg wire, was this due to extreme length or did the code guy just add 20+30+50. I will have to check with the AHJ, cause if I have to run #2 I will put in a 100 amp sub panel on the interior side of wall. Coach is a sub panel with a diverse load, and the other 2 outlets are also a diverse load. 50 amp conducter on a 50 breaker is still kosher. And a whopping 12 kw of load.
Didn't ask the code guy. 100 amps equaled 2 g wire as far as I calculated. length from the panel was 12 feet or so I think...  There is one 240v 50 amp breaker, 1 120v 30 amp breaker and a 20 amp gfci breaker. So the max load could be 100 amps so I sized it for that. Might be overkill, but they didn't have any 4 awg. Have a 100 amp breaker at the main box feeding it.
Bob
 

Re: Exterior RV outlet

Reply #26 –
Thanks guys for all your wisdom and input. Being the cheapskate I am, I think I was being penny wise and pound foolish. Bought a 100 amp subpanel with 24 spaces for the the front of the coach house  between the garage doors that will serve the original garage that was 100' from the meter, the exterior RV outlet combo, any welder, plasma cutter or tools to be used outside mainly, the new ground level washer and dryer (it's in the basement now) but soon to be located in an infill structure between the coach house and residence. Maybe an ATS and new circuits to run the freezer and fridges that are now 40' away, and of course the gas furnace that's 100' feet away and sump pumps. 120 v backup generator from the coach would require some serious fore thought about about which leg to the sub panel to use, along with the neutral coming from the main  unenergized 200 amp panel.  Definitely a ? For my EE expert friend.