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Topic: Solar Upgrade (Read 1900 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #20 –
We have a Winegard Rayzar automatic (flat dome) TV antenna, represented as one of the circles. We will likely strip off the DirecTV dome.

As to the ladder. This is just one of the captured layout samples I have mocked up. Nothing is final. I also started measuring the flat surface not including the radius to the walls. Here is another one that has more ladder space but could cover almost the entire roof. All solar panel sizes are actual models available. I really just wanted to convey that SketchUp is a great tool to mock this up.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #21 –
It gets expensive to start using smaller panels to fill in spaces.  AM Solar makes their own custom sized panels to make fitting motorhomes with more panels possible.  Many of those panels are well over $500.  You can get close to 400 watts per panel in standard sizes. For many 1200 to 1500 is good for most circumstances.  I have 1200, I would like more but mostly for those low sun angle winter days.  April to September we are usually self sufficient.  It is really nice to go to a NP CG for a week or 10 days and not need the generator.  We have done it in the Tetons and in Yellowstone.  Everyones power needs, storage capacity, expectations and ability to manage power use is different.  Solar is just one more way to use your coach.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #22 –
I was able to get 3 of my panels for $100.00 each, on Craigslist, 4th panel was $175.00 as I wanted the same exact panel as the first 3 and the company had gone out of business. The last 3 were $125.00 each off Craigslist and go to a different controller so all is good. I could have moved the panels further to the outside to make it easier to walk between them, but it is still doable for me at this time.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #23 –
With this link on solar, I went up on the roof with a piece of cardboard to see where the panels would fit. When I bought this rig it
came with 4 270 watt panels, controller inverter, lots of wire and some breakers. The only thing I see missing is the feeder box for the
breakers to go in. I think I will paint the roof before I put them up. The paint on the roof looks good but if it is wet it is too slippery
to walk on and in the winter I have to go up and sweep the snow off, so I want better traction.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #24 –
If I were doing it again I would replace the window awnings with solar panels that could be propped up when parked and simply go with that. Way too ole to continually try to out do the next guy. Looking at some of the layouts I am reminded to trying to walk between panels and slipping. Bad cut the my knee. Then the worst part is getting down and trying to clean up the blood before the DW says "I told you so!"

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #25 –
Using solar panels for the window awnings is an intriguing idea.  But you would lose most of your view out of the window.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #26 –
Here is an idea of what is available now. These are the residential size and may fit RV better than the commercial size. They are the same 39 inch width but only 64.5 inches tall and produce 305 watts @ $130 each and have the commercial aluminum frame. The brand is Yingli, the same manufacture of the panels on our coach panels as well as the brand used on many U.S. solar farms.  They are monocrystalline but even though mono panels are supposed to be more efficient than poly panels, it may be a bunch of hype. Here is the ad: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/573272246636077/

Good video of mono panels vs. poly. The poly panels do look like they have more square inches though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ_jrSAk-DU

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #27 –
Quote from: folivier –
Using solar panels for the window awnings is an intriguing idea.  But you would lose most of your view out of the window.

If they could make the flexible one more flexible.. might work

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #28 –
Pretty soon they'll have solar panels that you will be able to paint onto the roof or the sides of the coach and onto the awnings. We're not there yet but we're close.
You have to be really careful when putting solar panels on the roof to not overcrowd it. Otherwise you're in a real danger of either tripping and falling off which will really mess up your week, or breaking an ankle. with the amount of solar I have on my roof it can be a little difficult to get around but not impossible. Tilting them up of course makes for a whole lot more room but you can't drive it that way. So make sure you have a clear path to get from the rear ladder at least to the front air conditioner. you will not be able to step on the panels safely and you will not be able to step on the air conditioner safely, especially after UV degrades to covers of the AC. My advice is to lose a few watts for safety. Of course you don't have to use the rear ladder, I carry a large fold up aluminum ladder that will get me on top of the coach from any angle and any side. But it would sure suck if that ladder ever fell off while it was up there. Lol. Don't think that would happen but you never know.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #29 –
A member just found new 330 watt poly panels from Yingli for $105. These are full size so 77 inches long. So, check your local CL or Marketplace for the deals. I'm sure he will post location after he has his.

Pierce

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #30 –
I am considering some solar, but have what is probably a dumb question.  As I plan on where to run the wiring, I wonder where it ties to the batteries. I have three 8D batteries and a 2000 Magnum Inverter.  Does the power from the solar go through the controller and then to one battery which then goes through the other two to charge them ? 

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #31 –
Mark, you can run the solar cables through the refrigerator vent and down behind the refrigerator, and then down through the floor into the the bay where the water pump is.  The wires connect to a fuse block and then to the solar charge controller.  The output should go through a switch and a fuse before it connects to the house batteries this connection can be at the rear end or up front near the batteries.  If you want to charge both sets of  batteries there are strategies for that, pluses and minuses each way.

There are lots of ways to do this depending on what the end result expectations are, where your refrigerator is located, what length coach you have.  No right or wrong, just what works best on your coach for your needs.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #32 –
Mark,

There is a wealth of information online. The answer to your question is just a tiny bit of what you will need to design a solar system for your particular coach and needs. Don't be in a hurry but digest all you can until you are sick of the subject. If you are like me, you need the videos and diagrams to go with the written stuff.

Pierce

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #33 –
Wanting to go solar soon, but have 3 airs to get around on, so a cardboard template is important to see where all the panels will fit and what to get to come up with 1200 watts.

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #34 –
Quote from: juicesqueezer –
Wanting to go solar soon, but have 3 airs to get around on, so a cardboard template is important to see where all the panels will fit and what to get to come up with 1200 watts.
Use a template for the 39x65 inch panels. That way, you can get just over 1200 watts with four panels in smaller panels.

Pierce

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #35 –
Quote from: Jack Lewis –
Especially accurate advise from Roger, and others.  I would only add:  Choose your suppliers of components carefully.  AmSolar and Bay Marine will support you before and after your purchase for any purchase like Victron Smartsolar chargers, etc.  Buying the lowest price components may in the long run not be prudent.  An example is "commercial grade wire" that Roger mentioned.  Much of the cheap solar wire on the internet is not uv or sun resistant and nothing more than copper plated aluminum, thus inferior and causing havoc with lengh/loss charts.  I bought all my wire from AmSolar insuring it was uv/sunlight resistant,  100% copper wire.  I really like their connection wire for the roof, they call Roof wire, $3.00 foot, that puts the two,  neg and pos, leads in one round grey jacketed wire, makes for a clean, protected installation.

Cables

I also remember gracerace, on our forum, strongly recommending Windy Nation I have never used them, however, they list their solar extension wire as UL approved and that it has uv/sunlight resistance.
Solar Cable & Wire

Which would be the best solar panels mono crystalene or poly crystalene thanks kev

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #36 –
Quote from: kevo0000 –
Which would be the best solar panels mono crystalene or poly crystalene thanks kev
Hello Kev, When I researched this 3 years ago, I became a fan of mono crystalene. I have both new LG 280 and 335 panels, average cost was approx $350, and two used 305 Sun Power, @ $110 each delivered, all are mono, for approx 1800 watts comfortably on my roof..  Now we are finding new poly panels for $110.  Which is best? Cummins, Cat, or Detroit?  Which car is best Toyota, Hyundai, or Mercedes?

There are no stupid questions. There are however, unrealistic  expectations. You, I, and others have to find out reading a few threads of what has already been posted about this and/or find what is written, or video's on this subject on YouTube.  I have found it does not help to take a poll of what others bought, ignoring our own needs.  Does this make any sense to you?  Are you sometimes in the shade, what latitude are you at, is footprint important, is budget more important than efficiency?

Europe seems to be as aware as the US, if not more so. With Victron nearby, it appears you have many resources. Only you know your needs, do your research, make your choice.  I cannot say with absolute certainty, what is best for myself, or any other one forum member on this forum without volumes of measurements, of how I, you, or they, will use the solar system in the future. If you have room on your roof, buy one more panel, than your crrant plan, this will solve many research errors, or error in guessing at your your needs today and in the future.

PS.  My dad and his father were both born in London.  If you can manage having a 1990 FT where you are, you will for sure be able to handle this solar thing.  Many of the first solar videos I watched were from boats in the United Kingdom.
 

Re: Solar Upgrade

Reply #37 –
After doing mine I think I would put as many watts on the roof as you can. I wanted to leave access to AC, dish and other equipment so I did.  The smaller 66" long panels are available into the mid 300s, even higher.  If you can only get four panels on your roof then spend some extra money to get higher wattage panels. In the long run you will like it.  Why?  On a nice sunny day in the summer 1200-1500 watts will generate enough to meet your power needs and keep batteries (especially AGMs) fully charged.  We have seen days well over 5kw.  Any excess beyond what you can store or use gets dumped. More solar capacity helps get extra weeks or maybe a month at either end of the prime solar months when it is hard to meet use and recharge needs. 

Consider the charge controller and the fuse block/circuit breaker panel, switches and wiring.  Mock this up as well and see how and where it will all fit. Do all of this before you buy and then verify your plan.  If you have thought it out carefully and done some planning then there are many fewer surprises during the install.