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Topic: Need help on plumbing water leak  (Read 1147 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #25
Rick, that brass fitting is a tapered thread so why it started but then got tight. The Viega part is a straight thread that is why they have a rubber seal in it. Have you tried a hose pipe fitting as they are straight thread, but may be a bit too coarse a thread.
That new  manablock that  you are talking about may not have the part you need, but you will find out once you see a photo of it, keeping my fingers crossed for you.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #26
Here is what happened to me - don't let it happen to you.  At some point, I turned on a manifold valve the was not connected to a water line but instead had a cap on the connection.  I then closed the valve.  When I winterized, I forgot I had let a very small amount of water get between the valve and the cap - maybe a tablespoon full.  When the water froze, the manifold body cracked.

I now do not have any caps on the unused lines on the manifold!  This could also be a problem if you are plumbed for a W/D and don't have one.  Don't let water get into those lines.  I have mine disconnected from the manifold.

I bought a new manifold from the same manufacturer.  It was just a little bit different in size (vertically larger by an inch or two), being 20 years newer, so some reworking of the pex lines was required to line up with the manifold connections.  Not hard, just took some time.  I was also able to make the the parts to bypass the water heater when winterizing.

They make a special wrench for making the connections on the lines on the side of the manifold.  Worth the price.

As I said above, be very careful when installing the top and bottom lines.  Hand tighten to make sure you are not cross threaded with the metal on the line and the plastic threads on the manifold.  If they do get damaged, I suspect you are looking at a new manifold.

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #27
Here is what happened to me - don't let it happen to you.  At some point, I turned on a manifold valve the was not connected to a water line but instead had a cap on the connection.  I then closed the valve.  When I winterized, I forgot I had let a very small amount of water get between the valve and the cap - maybe a tablespoon full.  When the water froze, the manifold body cracked.

I now do not have any caps on the unused lines on the manifold!  This could also be a problem if you are plumbed for a W/D and don't have one.  Don't let water get into those lines.  I have mine disconnected from the manifold.

I bought a new manifold from the same manufacturer.  It was just a little bit different in size (vertically larger by an inch or two), being 20 years newer, so some reworking of the pex lines was required to line up with the manifold connections.  Not hard, just took some time.  I was also able to make the the parts to bypass the water heater when winterizing.

They make a special wrench for making the connections on the lines on the side of the manifold.  Worth the price.

As I said above, be very careful when installing the top and bottom lines.  Hand tighten to make sure you are not cross threaded with the metal on the line and the plastic threads on the manifold.  If they do get damaged, I suspect you are looking at a new manifold.

Rich
thanks Rich
Rick & Hilda looking forward to full- timing one day for now couple of months at a time
1999 U270 3602
Built number  5530.  Feb 1999            Motorcade  number 18438
8.3 Cummins Allison six speed with brake  retarder
Purchased Nov 28 2019

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #28
You can make your own version of a manablock with 3/4" pex pipe, 3/4" to 1/2" T connectors and 1/2" valves, the price will be close to the price of a new 12 port manablock at $135, but it will be repairable!
David & Emma Roche
Dino (Golden Doodle)
1999 U270 WTFE 36' Build # 5534
Xtreme "Lights, Stripes & Roof"
Motorcade# 18321
Dayton, Ohio
Towd: Jeep Grand Cherokee
Two Townie Electra Bikes

Life is made to enjoy, the Foretravel helps!

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #29
Up date on my problem with my water leak after try to repair the old part and trying to make up a replacement part. I was very lucky a fellow Foretravel member Economy Travellers just 200 miles away in Canada WOW  contact me  that they had a new manifold still in the box that they never install on there 1998 U270 that they sold. They sold it to me at a very reasonable price and I appreciate that and I ordered the couplings for the new manifold from Foretravel I am now waiting for the theses parts to install and hoping that it's not to big of a job install I am not to good at modifying things  At this rate of repairs by 2022 I will have rebuilt my coach in to a brand new Foretravel Coach l.o.l thanks too all members that gave their in put and advice  I am learning a lot this coach has been a very enjoyable  learning experience I am tackling things I would've never considered tackling before. I am not at the end of my line but do get frustrated at times but things always seem to work out.
Rick & Hilda looking forward to full- timing one day for now couple of months at a time
1999 U270 3602
Built number  5530.  Feb 1999            Motorcade  number 18438
8.3 Cummins Allison six speed with brake  retarder
Purchased Nov 28 2019

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #30
Ritch, I had a similar problem with freezing and my line to wet bay tap was not drained and the threaded end of valve on manablock broke on cold line, but the shut off valve was ok, so turned that off. What I did so I could save the whole Manabloc was to tee off the toilet feed then just put a brass valve on the new piece of pex and then joined up the old tap one to this new feed. I did put a little sticker on new valve to remind myself that the toilet feed now also covers the tap. All has been good for couple of years and it is not a problem. I also cut out the opening for the Manabloc in the cover for all pluming making it about 6 inches wider and deeper so I can actually get to all valves and lines without removing it, and also get tothis new valve.
JohnH
Coachless, now use aircraft. 2003 Ford Travelair TC280 class C. Super shape. Just for 1 yr .
1994 Ford E350 ClassC,total renovation inside and out. Now sold.
2000 U295  36' Cummins 350 c/w Banks Stinger, Resonator upgrade,Solar, LED lites.Residential fridge with slide out pantry. Build 5674. Sold
ex 92 GV 022C ored Cummins. Sold
ex 95 GV240 cat 3116. Sold
2017 Mini cooper s & 2016 land Rover LR2 HSE  LUX.
jhaygarth@aol.com    SKP #130098
treat everyone as you would like to be.

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #31
John, my block was cracked so I couldn't just bypass that valve.

Rich
Rich and Peggy Bowman
2002 U270 3610 WTFS, build #5939--"Freedom"
2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit 4xe
SMI AirForceOne brake system
PakCanoe 15

 

Re: Need help on plumbing water leak

Reply #32
Over 10 years ago, we repair a cracked manifold fitting with epoxy and it has been just fine. No need to fabricate.