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Topic: My basement rebuild (Read 8491 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #60 –
Quote from: DavidS –
At my shop we use a solution that put a micro etch on the material and anywhere it touches the metal.. it has cut my rust service calls to almost nothing.. Might be worth making a plastic dipping tank with visqueen plastic roll.. with a rust inhibitor for the inside of the tube.. considering where its going... 2 2x4 on the ground with the plastic laid over it with the solution you can set the pieces of tube in to soak.. just an idea.
what is the name of this solution and can it be bought over the counter ?

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #62 –
Alodine cannot be used on steel or it will corrode the steel. Made for aluminum only.
JohnH

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #63 –
I always like 0.125" A little heavier but no big deal.  Let me know the size/thickness and I can give you a price per 20 foot length from the supplier I use. Good to get an idea of what it's going to cost.

An Alodine conversion that works so well on aluminum does not do the trick on steel. A mix of gallic and formic acid followed by spray galvanizing gives good protection. Rust-Oleum has 20 oz for about $6 while other brands can cost up to 8X as much like Rust Proof Coating For Metal | Prevents Rust & Corrosion | Superior Industrie... Don't know the advantage of one over they other. I used one of the following last year on a trailer. Had to wear a mask but it is chip resistant and dries hard as a rock. About $100/gal delivered. Brush or spray. If you get the black on your hands or anywhere else, it has to wear off. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kco-57001. Summit racing gives quick service.

Pierce

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #64 –
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –
I always like 0.125" A little heavier but no big deal.  Let me know the size/thickness and I can give you a price per 20 foot length from the supplier I use. Good to get an idea of what it's going to cost.

An Alodine conversion that works so well on aluminum does not do the trick on steel. A mix of gallic and formic acid followed by spray galvanizing gives good protection. Rust-Oleum has 20 oz for about $6 while other brands can cost up to 8X as much like Rust Proof Coating For Metal | Prevents Rust & Corrosion | Superior Industrie... Don't know the advantage of one over they other. I used one of the following last year on a trailer. Had to wear a mask but it is chip resistant and dries hard as a rock. About $100/gal delivered. Brush or spray. If you get the black on your hands or anywhere else, it has to wear off. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kco-57001. Summit racing gives quick service.

Pierce
The Summit link gives a message that it can't be found.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #66 –
Rust Bullet undercoating/primer is  another great product.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #67 –
What thickness of tubing do people rebuild their bulkhead with it looks like the manufacture used 3/16  i am think of using # 8 bolts What type of insulation i have other people try for example spray in foam 

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #68 –
Quote from: Cape Bretoner –
What thickness of tubing do people rebuild their bulkhead with it looks like the manufacture used 3/16  i am think of using # 8 bolts What type of insulation i have other people try for example spray in foam 
CapeBretoner, if you check into Reply #57 you'll find tubing wall thickness.
My basement rebuild

" I used 1/8 wall tube on rear bulkhead and the 2 side to side ribs inder divider walls and 1/16 wall for sides and short connect pieces. Actually the 1/16 wall looked thicker than what foretravel used to my eye." Chris Stump Allen.

What I want to add, to ease your mind about the load carrying capacity of your frame is a picture of someone else's coach, a U320 where the frame work is showing through the skin.  This is the load carrying frame of your coach.  The boxes and bulkheads below are there to keep the frame from twisting.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #69 –
FYI,
Ospho is a rust converter, not an inhibitor. It converts iron oxide(rust) to hard, inert iron phosphate. A rust inhibitor, or paint, must be applied over it. It may also be Bondo'd over, as it etches and adheres very strongly to the metal surface. Heavy rust should have more than one application.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #70 –

I use phosphoric acid on corroded aircraft aluminum, alcoa wheels, rusty steel. It may be necessary to constantly brush it on as it's not that strong but I try to wear gloves. https://www.homedepot.com/p/reviews/Klean-Strip-1-Gal-Concrete-Etch-Metal-Prep-Rust-Inhibitor-GKPA30220/100406369/5.  Ospho is also contains phosphoric acid and great to prep surfaces for a primer or paint. Amazon.com: Ospho 605 Metal Treatment: Home Improvement

This is for light rust. Heavy rust needs mechanical removal.

Good but out of date primers can be found online from Boeing. Deft is one of the companies that produce it.

Muratic Acid has some really nasty vapors and don't recommend it.

Pierce

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Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #71 –
Check out Acid Magic,same as muratic no fumes you can touch it with bare hands,can get at Ace hardware,about $12 a gallon,
dissolves rust,we use it for the pool salt cell.

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #72 –
Quote from: John44 –
Check out Acid Magic,same as muratic no fumes you can touch it with bare hands,can get at Ace hardware,about $12 a gallon,
dissolves rust,we use it for the pool salt cell.
we use it for the pool salt cell.

John...how do you use it we have a salt water pool

Thx
Hans
 

Re: My basement rebuild

Reply #73 –
Not John, but when we had a salt water pool one of the maintenance items was to dip the catalytic cell in a jar of muriatic acid to remove any salts that had built up.