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Topic: Shock replacement DIY (Read 2262 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #40 –
Agree and no cord or compressor required.  Plus the price has dropped 50% since I bought mine 4 years ago!!!  I only buy HF as throw away emergency tooling these days.  JWID.

Quote from: Elliott –
Funny you suggest that Woody, I was already kicking that exact idea around. Very unimpressed by the earthquake. Might be better with a bigger compressor but it costs near the same as the Milwaukee

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #41 –
Red ones are older Koni's not FSD.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #42 –
Quote from: Elliott –
Might be better with a bigger compressor but it costs near the same as the Milwaukee
I was wondering about your compressor.  I feed my Ingersoll Rand 3/4 impact with an 80 gal IR compressor.  If you could convert to a 1/2" air line, it might help.
I bought a Mil M18 Fuel 1/2" impact when they first came out.  IIRC, it only came with a 1 or 2 Ah battery.  I got a distress call from my brother who had a flat tire and didn't have a tire iron with him.  I took the hand tools we would need and my new impact.  It wouldn't even budge some of the lug nuts!  Good thing I had the hand tools! I soon got a 5 Ah battery which definitely made it much stronger. Maybe an M18 3/4" impact with a big battery would do it, but if you needed a 10' breaker, I know my M18 1/2 wouldn't have a chance.
Maybe the M18 1/2" has been improved or I have a dud.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #43 –
My first 1/2 Milwaukee wouldn't break my wheel nuts loose but the second one is a fuel and it
will brake them loose and it can tighten up over 500 ft. lbs. I think the new Fuel will loosen and
tighten even more.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #44 –
The 2767 M18 FUEL Cordless Brushless High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring eliminates the need to use a pneumatic tool for those stubborn and rusted bolts by delivering 1,000 ft./lbs. of fastening torque and 1400 ft./lbs. of nut-busting torque. With 2X faster removal speed, users will be able to get the job done faster and be more productive throughout their day. By providing the industry's most compact cordless High Torque Impact Wrench at 8.39 in L, this tool allows for more access in tight spaces. 4-Mode DRIVE CONTROL with Bolt Removal mode gives users the most control over their fasteners. Bolt Removal mode gives the user more control when removing fasteners by slowing to 750 RPM once the fastener has been busted loose. This tool offers quick, tool-free socket changes with a 1/2 in. friction ring anvil.

I do recommend hearing protection and safety glasses. Something is going to break. Crazy powerful. My fuel 1/4" hex driver has broken several snap on sockets 10mm and 16mm and two 3/4 in gear wrenches

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #45 –
Dave, M11 Fuel is a brand label.  Model number is important.  When I bought my 2767-22 4 years ago, the friction ring model had more reverse torque and was pricier.  That's what I have, charger and 2 batteries in a case, and it'll take a wheel lug nut off on level 2.  Level 4 will make 1400 ft/lb of off torque, which will remove or break anything on our coaches.  Hang on tight!!!  You either had a defective model or didn't have it set to level 4.  I can't find the original u-toob video of the guy removing every lug nut from a Terex wheel loader except one, the convincer for me to invest in the Mil, but this guy does the similar test of the battery.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGgWlN9Q7y0&t=99s

Quote
I bought a Mil M18 Fuel 1/2" impact when they first came out.  IIRC, it only came with a 1 or 2 Ah battery.  I got a distress call from my brother who had a flat tire and didn't have a tire iron with him.  I took the hand tools we would need and my new impact.  It wouldn't even budge some of the lug nuts!  Good thing I had the hand tools! I soon got a 5 Ah battery which definitely made it much stronger. Maybe an M18 3/4" impact with a big battery would do it, but if you needed a 10' breaker, I know my M18 1/2 wouldn't have a chance.
Maybe the M18 1/2" has been improved or I have a dud.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #46 –
10 feet of pipe is a lot of pipe. In all the years as a heavy duty mechanic I have never used a
cheater that long.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #47 –
My Milwaukee 2767 impact wrench did a great job on 11 out of the 16 bolts.  Three others wouldn't respond to the 1400ft-lbs nor the several day's worth of PB Blaster and needed to be cut with the grinder.
The 16th bolt was out of reach of the grinder. I used a 1-1/8" impact-rated socket, two 1/2" drive extensions that were supported onto a jack stand. The Harbor Freight Pittsburg 1/2" breaker bar was used to drive it. A square hitch extender tube was put over the handle of the breaker bar and a 6' pipe was put into the other end of the hitch extender. My considerable weight was applied and It worked. That breaker bar, extensions and socket held up to the abuse and did the job.
I used a large 1-1/8 hitch ball wrench to hold the other side of it all. It also worked well.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #48 –
 PB Blaster doesn't rank very high in penetrant tests. Save your money for FT parts.

https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs

I've been using ATF/acetone brew for 20+ years and have yet failed to get positive results, other than the acetone evaporates quickly in the oil squirt can.  DWMYH.  Woody. 

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #49 –
All extensions are not created equal. Most standard extensions absorb the twisting motion of the impact. The extensions for impact use generally have a locking button end and flex much less than a normal extension. If your using two you are doubling the lost motion. The same goes if you are using a swivel adapter. More loss. Short impact socket directly on the impact will produce much higher numbers. I honestly do not recall splitting a nut in the  past 40 years. Propane torch and kroil or better yet mouse milk. Several heat cool cycles and they come off or twist the fastener off.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #50 –
That was interesting Woody and I have never had heat fail me when I could use it and I concentrate
the heat more than he did.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #51 –
On the Milwaukee M18 Impacts subject.  Back when I bought mime there were two models. They both looked alike.  One had the killer torque as mentioned above and the other not so much.  I believe I paid around $800+ for it when I got it. They had just come on the market at the time.  I could not believe how much cheaper that they are now.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #52 –
I'm a Bus Grease Monkey addict on the u-toobs.  To see the rusted stuff on 60 y/o buses that those guys get loose boggles the mind.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #54 –
+1. On the Bus Grease Monkey UT show.  Can't relate much to the Detroit diesel stuff but much of his other work relates.
  And yes there's some real rust buckets out there.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #55 –
Quote from: turbojack –
On the Milwaukee M18 Impacts subject.  Back when I bought mime there were two models. They both looked alike.  One had the killer torque as mentioned above and the other not so much.  I believe I paid around $800+ for it when I got it. They had just come on the market at the time.  I could not believe how much cheaper that they are now.
I have the 2767 model A and do love it.
Milwaukee accountants redesigned the 2767 to a model B to save a few bucks. They immediately regretted it, pulled store inventories of the B models and switched back to the A model.
Check your Serial number. If you have a H96A then all is good. If you have a H96B, reach out to Milwaukee and you'll (supposedly) get a new A model.
More details here: Milwaukee 2767 M18 Fuel Impact Wrench Issue: Official Response

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #56 –
Quote from: Woody & Sitka –
I'm a Bus Grease Monkey addict on the u-toobs.  To see the rusted stuff on 60 y/o buses that those guys get loose boggles the mind.
Really interesting on the video, but real world is different. Salts and time have a way with fasteners. Anti seize regardless of type is beneficial. I always seem to be way past double the installation torque on fasteners that aren't playing nice. Propane torch, typically what spray lube is available at that moment and freeze spray on the tough ones. Also sticking it with a hammer seems to wake them up or makes me feel better, not sure which. Then repeat till they release.

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #57 –
I did the last corner today in record time. I went out and bought the Milwaukee impact gun that Woody suggested and it did manage to break all the bolts loose on its own, albeit with a bit of patience required. Feels good to have this behind me and hopefully the last time I ever pull these fenders

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #58 –
Nice work Elliot! It always feels great to tackle a big project with success. Glad the last corner went well. I love my Milwaukee beast impact. It hasn't let.me.down yet!
 

Re: Shock replacement DIY

Reply #59 –
My Milwaukee is a 2762-20 from 2014. Specs say max of 600ft-lbs of torque...nothing like the newest ones!