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Topic: Air Pressure won't build (Read 2625 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #50 –
Does anyone know if the spin on dryer cartridge from the DQ6026 kit is available separately?
Keith
2003 U320 38' #6197

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #51 –
Keith,

Yes. If you want both filters (desiccant & coalescing) you need the DQ6036 (your best option) now if you want just the desiccant filter alone I think you will need the DQ6028.  They do make a mac daddy desiccant one that is a DQ33125.

Mike
Pamela & Mike 97 U 320

"It's not what happens to you, but how you react to it that matters."

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #52 –
Do you know why thread these have v?
I think that mine needs. 39 1.50
Thanks

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #54 –
Well it is fixed. A new remanufactured air dryer unit fixed the problem and pressure built as usual. Now I just need to adjust the new governor for correct air pressure. Should that be around 125 on the high side?
2003 U270 36'

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #55 –
A most gracious thank you to all who contributed to the success and hand holding throughout.
2003 U270 36'

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #56 –
Quote from: dkeener –
Should that be around 125 on the high side?
Yes - 125 would be perfect.

Anywhere in the 120-130 range is fine.  Never allow the pressure to exceed 150psi.  Your wet tank should have a safety pressure relief valve that will open at 150psi.  It will definitely get your attention if you ever hear it open.  Don't ask how I know...



1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #57 –
How do you know...
Peter and Tammy Fleming
1991 U300 GV 40 - Sold, owned for 4 years
Downsized to Roadtrek Popular 210 class B

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #58 –
I said don't ask...

One of those embarrassing times when you shoot yourself in the foot.

Most of the story is in the link below.  In that post, I said "I assume the relief valve went into action..."  Well, I was being evasive- in fact I know it went into action because it was making a extremely LOUD whistling noise that was very evident even over the running engine noise.  As soon as I closed the needle valve (and the dryer purged) the sound mercifully stopped.  I can only imagine what it would sound like if the engine was off and it opened while standing in close proximity to the tank.  Definitely something to be avoided.

Driving Tip: Scan Your Gauges!

1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #59 –
Ive had the unloader valve get stuck open one time.  Now it is stuck closed and purging the dryer every 30 secs.    So. Keep an eye there if you have a non air build.
 

Re: Air Pressure won't build

Reply #60 –
I have experienced the large stainless braided line (supply line) clogged frome carbon from a well used compressor to cause this also.
Basically lack of volume that low of pressure any item would consume 20psi. D2 is a common problem cheap truck pro or fleet pride sell them cheap. I replaced mine last year and it was preset to 135psi. Truck pro 38 bucks.
99 U320 40
97 Jeep wrangler toad
Now full time 8 months
Starting a new brick and wood home
Chattanooga, Tn