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Topic: Dometic Refrigerator Cooling Problem (Read 1070 times) previous topic - next topic

Dometic Refrigerator Cooling Problem

We have a dometic side by side RM1282 original refrigerator in our 2001 U320.  The refrigerator has been working fine with a temperature around 36 degrees until the last 6 months.  When we travel- even if it is just a 1 hour trip, our refrigerator temperature will be in the 50's for the next 3 days even if it is plugged back into shorepower after 1 hour of being on the road.  The freezer stays at -4 the entire time.  Eventually the refrigerator temp comes down to 36 degrees but only when the coach has been stationary for a few days.  My only advice by Foretravel has been to replace the cooling unit (which is backordered at Dometic until the end of August).  I called James Triana and he said another owner up north had the same problem and remembered something about a low pressure created when travelling that pulled the cold air out of the refrigerator.  Has any one  heard of this- and if so, is there a fix?

Thanks
kim mcmorries '01 U320

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Cooling Problem

Reply #1
Quote
When we travel- even if it is just a 1 hour trip, our refrigerator temperature will be in the 50's
After struggling with this issue for 2 years & replacing the cooling unit twice to no avail.
It turned out that a piece of styrofoam was missing on top of refer to prevent hot air coming over the top of refer.
My problem only happened when I was driving and on gas.
So I made a vent cover made of sunscreen material & buttoned it on the vent.
The problem went away.
So It had something to do with the air coming in the vent while driving.
But what was different on my coach than all others who are not having this issue.
I saw the bead of silicone at the top of refer & realized that there must have been something there originally that was not put back after replacing cooling unit.

I don't think your gas valve is the issue which would be the 1st thing I would look at if the problem was just when you are driving because your freezer is that cold.

Some additional things I came up with
http://beamalarm.com/Documents/replacing_refrigerator_cooling_unit.htm

http://beamalarm.com/Documents/dometic-thermister-measurements.htm
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Cooling Problem

Reply #2
Do we assume that the propane side is working when you go off of electric?  If you are mostly operating on electric, you might not be used to monitoring the propane situation.
It does take a long time for the reefer to get back to normal after being warmed up by NOT cooling on due to a propane problem.

I would check to see if anything could be falling or pushing against the door when in motion and allowing warm air to penetrate the door seals.  I have had shelves back out of their location and prevent the door from being closed tightly and correctly.  One could PUSH against the door and MAKE it close but, it didn't seal well on the bottom.  Finally had to tape one of the shelves into position to prevent the problem especially on desert back roads.  Took us a long time to find THAT problem.  Check all around your door seals with a dollar bill or a piece of paper.
Regards,
JON TWORK KB8RSA
Full Time RVer (10+ Years) & Dedicated Boondocker
Retired, Unemployed, Homeless Transients
1996 Foretravel U270-36 w/24' Timberwolf Trailer
I firmly believe that tomorrow holds the possibility for new technologies, astounding discoveries, and a reprieve from my remaining obligations.
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Re: Dometic Refrigerator Cooling Problem

Reply #3
Kim,
Not to dispute what anyone else has said, but it sounds like the propane flame is not on when 120 v electric is unavailable.  You can check this by turning off shore power and/or generator.  Go outside and make sure the valve on the propane tank is open.  Next remove the air inlet cover behind the refrigerator. Now you should be looking at the back of refrig. There should be a little round cover that can be moved so that you can see a blue flame.  Be careful it could be hot.  There may be a manual shutoff valve for the propane.  If so it should be open.  There may also be a small metal box around the burner that can be removed for cleaning the burner.  Sometimes rust and dirt fall on the burner and short the ignitor which provides an electric spark to ignite the flame.  If there is dirt on the burner remove it with a vacuum.  Have someone inside the coach turn the refrigerator on and look and listen for a spark and burner ignition.  If there is a strong odor of gas don't don't do this until the leak is fixed.  If there is a spark, but the burner does not ignite the control board will stop trying to ignite after a few seconds.  You have to turn off the refrig and turn it back on for another attempt.  If the propane has not been used for awhile there could be air in the line instead of propane. 3 or 4 start attempts should clear out any air in the line. 

The absorption type of refrigerator is slow to cool down and recover as compared to compressor type refrigerators.  The freezer cools down first then the refrigerator. Generally takes overnight to do this.  It works best when it is mostly full of cold food or drinks, but it should not be so full that air cannot circulate freely around the cooling fins and through the shelves.  Try not to keep the door open very long or open it frequently.  There may be a heater around the door.  It should be turned off unless high humidty causes a lot of condensation there. If the burner is working properly there should be no difference in cooling with gas vs. electric.  It is possible but not probable that air flow over the back of the refrig can be disrupted while traveling.  Outside air for cooling the coils flows in at the bottom of the refrig, up the back side of the refrig and out through an opening on the roof.  Any blockage will cause a problem for both gas and electric.  If you can not get the gas to work and electric does, you can run the generator while traveling to provide 120 volt ac. 

Jerry Whiteaker
96 U270
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt

Re: Dometic Refrigerator Cooling Problem

Reply #4
Something I forgot to mention is that the refrigerator works best when the coach is level.  Most modern absorption refrig's will continue to work up to 3 degrees sideways and 6 degrees fore and aft.  If you are parked at a steep angle for longer than 15 min turn off the refrig until level.  Here are some links that will explain it better.
http://www.rvuniversity.com/staticpages/index.php/RV_Refrigerator_Efficiency_101
http://bryantrv.com/reefer.html

Jerry Whiteaker
96 U270
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt