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Mountain driving

I am relitively new to the Foretravel family. I have taken some trips around Texas but plan to head towards the mountains of Colorado in a few weeks and am looking for some advice. My coach is a 1991 Grandvilla 36' with a 3208T 300 HP Cat and a 4 speed Allison. I do not have an exhaust brake and am curious what to expect on the downhill slopes in the mountains. I pull a jeep Wrangler set up with a Brakemaster setup tied to the coach. I have had travel trailers and gas pickups in the past and never had issues, utilizing downshifting. Is it the same with diesels?

Ron
91 Grandvilla
88 Wrangler
Ron Kohl
1999 U320
2005 Jeep Wrangler

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #1
Yes, with your diesel with no exhaust brake, engine compression brake or transmission retarder, gearing down is your only option.

And as with all heavy vehicles, the safe speed of descent is one that holds your speed in equilibrate (neither accelerating nor decelerating).  Even if the road is dead straight, that speed may be 25 MPH on a coach with no auxiliary braking system.

Brett

Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #2
i also agree on the gearing, once you have over whealmed your gearing and brakes is not the time to learn how to manage your coach.  For me, I think you might take a small trip that included some smaller mountains to learn how your coach feels and handles at different speeds and gearing.
Would recommend taking it slower until you get a handle on your setup, experience is the best teacher.
Like Brett mentioned, without any additional braking from engine nor transmission, play it very cool, take your time and do not depend on the toad brakes to keep you alive.
Then head for the serious mtns.
Also, you do not want to burn up your brakes, it can get real costly as George S. found out.
FWIW, and Good luck
Dave

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #3
Ron,
 
So far you have received excellent advice.  All I can add is to use intermittent brake application to keep the RPM's in check once you've figured which gear will mostly hold the speed you feel comfortable with.  By applying the brakes hard fo about 2 to 10 seconds and coasting for about 4 times that amount of time or longer, you will be able to reduce the RPM's and give the service brakes time to cool without unduly overheating them.
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #4
Thanks for all the advice. I feel a little better about what to expect. Another question, is there a concern about transmission temperatures in a situation where you are gearing down?
                                                                                          Ron
Ron Kohl
1999 U320
2005 Jeep Wrangler

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #5
Ron,

There shouldn't be a problem.

Yes, in lower gears, your particular transmission's torque converter is NOT locked up.  But at the higher RPM's you will be turning, the fan and water pump should circulate plenty of air and water to the radiator (and therefore the transmission cooler.  Verify, but I believe on your chassis, the transmission cooler is in the radiator).
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #6
ron
several driving schools offer air brake courses, that are part of the requirement for a commercial drivers license.  these courses can usually be completed in a week of two hour classes.
these courses gives a good insight to potential problems that may be encountered with a heavy
vehicle starting on a downgrade with too much speed.
I'm amazed that a person can spend a lifetime behind a desk, then retire,  purchase a
50,000 lb vehicle, hook on a huge trailer, and then legally set off to see the sights. 

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #7
Mr Wolfe;
I have a '93 Allison 4 speed hooked to a 6V92
I was under the impression that my torque converter was "locked" on shift from 1st to second gear.
Is this incorrect?
I have a 2 position "Jake" brake, but not real effective in 3 & 4th gear.
You opinion requested
1993 U300, 6v92
build 4366
USAF retired, Flight Engineer, C124, C130
 ATP, A & E.  & ex AI

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #8
It depends on the 4 speed. You likely have a B500. The "non big boy" 4 speeds were MT 643 and 647s - they did not lock in 1st, 2nd or 3rd for
643s, and 1st/2nd for 647s.
 
Quote
Bill Chaplin wrote: 
Mr Wolfe;
I have a '93 Allison 4 speed hooked to a 6V92 I was under the impression that my torque converter was "locked" on shift from 1st to second gear.
Is this incorrect?
I have a 2 position "Jake" brake, but not real effective in 3 & 4th gear.
You opinion requested
 
1993 U300 M4000, 6v92 engine build 4366 billchaplin@sbcglobal.net
817.821.3869 Cell toad '02 Mazda B3000
The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #9
Ron,

I, too, have a '91 GV.  Mine is on an Oshkosh chassis.  If yours is the same then you probably have drum brakes like I do. 

I don't have time right now to go into great detail about smoking brakes (Mine!) but just to say I installed an exhaust brake as soon as I could and I was towing a Toyota Corolla.

With the exhaust brake AND the Brakemaster I was towing a 7,000 lb Dodge truck.  No more smoking brakes on the GV but I had rotor cracking on the truck from the Brakemaster over braking the truck.

I will be getting something lighter to tow the next time I go rock hounding.

John Cooper
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #10
Mr Wolfe;
I have a '93 Allison 4 speed hooked to a 6V92
I was under the impression that my torque converter was "locked" on shift from 1st to second gear.
Is this incorrect?
I have a 2 position "Jake" brake, but not real effective in 3 & 4th gear.

You opinion requested


Bill,

Far better than my opinion-- get the FACTS from Allison.  Call them with your transmission model number: 

Allison help line 800 252 5283.

Brett Wolfe
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #11
Ron,

I am going to take the time to update you on my experience at Yosimite NP.  We were coming down from the Upper Pines Campground in Yosemite NP.  When we stopped at the Big Oak Flat entrance the Ranger told us our trailer brakes were smoking.  We did not have trailer brakes, it turned out to be the coach's rear brakes.  We pulled to the side of the road and waited an hour for them to cool down.  We then stopped at an RV park just outside of Yosemite.  After checking out Senora in the car we proceeded down the mountain with the car off the dolly.  In the short twisty sections of the road I was able to keep the speed under control but when we hit a long straight stretch that was no longer the case.  The brakes would not cool off enough between applications and so I would have to brake longer each time trying to keep from over revving the engine.  Naturally the brakes got even hotter and began to smoke.  I was just barely able to stop at a pull off and let the brakes cool down.  The grade was not as steep from there on and so I did not have another problem.  I had thought the rear seals must have leaked on the brakes but the shop said everything was o.k.

I will never, never go into the mountains again with out at least an exhaust brake, it was too harrowing!  Brakes on the toad will help but as you can see even without a toad long, steep grades can be a problem.  Installing my exhaust brake was a real pain because the brake was too long to fit between the turbo and the muffler.  All the work and expense paid for itself many times over in the mountains of Wyoming and Montana.  One particularly memorable road was between Lincoln and Helena Montana.  I only used the air brakes a few times to slow down for the really tight curves.

My Cat 3208T is red lined at 2700 RPM and I suspect yours is too.  I have been told that going over the red line can cause engine failure so it is very important to stay under the red line.  The engine does not appear to provide much braking power so it isn't  much help that the transmission is locked if the engine won't hold you under the red line.
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #12
The problem with an exhaust brake on a 3208 is that the exh valve springs are only 30#. For instance a C8.3 the heavy duty springs required for an exh brake are 65#. Of course ANY additional braking is a bonus, just know you can't expect too much out of one...

If you google 3208 Cat Exhaust brake, you will see that BD, US Gear and Pac brake all make one for the 3208. I would go for the US Gear - it is the only one that is wastegate regulated to give you max braking power as long as possible. $900 to 1200.00 plus labor for install.
 
Quote
John Cooper wrote: 
Ron,
 
I am going to take the time to update you on my experience at Yosimite NP. We were coming down from the Upper Pines Campground in Yosemite NP. When we stopped at the Big Oak Flat entrance the Ranger told us our trailer brakes were smoking. We did not have trailer brakes, it turned out to be the coach's rear brakes. We pulled to the side of the road and waited an hour for them to cool down. We then stopped at an RV park just outside of Yosemite. After checking out Senora in the car we proceeded down the mountain with the car off the dolly. In the short twisty sections of the road I was able to keep the speed under control but when we hit a long straight stretch that was no longer the case. The brakes would not cool off enough between applications and so I would have to brake longer each time trying to keep from over revving the engine. Naturally the brakes got even hotter and began to smoke. I was just barely able to stop at a pull off and let the brakes cool down. The grade was not as steep from there on and so I did not have another problem. I had thought the rear seals must have leaked on the brakes but the shop said everything was o.k.
 
I will never, never go into the mountains again with out at least an exhaust brake, it was too harrowing! Brakes on the toad will help but as you can see even without a toad long, steep grades can be a problem. Installing my exhaust brake was a real pain because the brake was too long to fit between the turbo and the muffler. All the work and expense paid for itself many times over in the mountains of Wyoming and Montana. One particularly memorable road was between Lincoln and Helena Montana. I only used the air brakes a few times to slow down for the really tight curves.
 
My Cat 3208T is red lined at 2700 RPM and I suspect yours is too. I have been told that going over the red line can cause engine failure so it is very important to stay under the red line. The engine does not appear to provide much braking power so it isn't much help that the transmission is locked if the engine won't hold you under the red line.
 
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #13
While descending from the Blue Mountains into western Washington, our 22,000# SOB coach tended to speed up even with the exhaust brake engaged. I used the service brakes vigorously a couple of times and decided we were going too fast for the grade. I slowed the coach to the point that the engine braking would keep the speed steady. That was considerably slower than the speed limit and slower than other traffic. However, it was safe for our vehicle. We hardly used the brakes after choosing the proper speed.

We were on one descent on an interstate highway where the appropriate speed was as low as 25 mph. Indeed, the posted speed limit for heavy trucks was 25 mph. On more gentle descents, the engine might be able to hold speed at 50 mph. My experience on roads suitable for driving a large vehicle has been that there is a combination of gearing and speed at which the engine will control the speed without going over the red line. It may be much slower than you expect, even if you have a Foretravel with a mighty fine transmission retarder.

(-;  DISCLAIMER=> Your experience may be different. <=DISCLAIMER  ;-)
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #14
Dave,
 
While it is true we did not go over the same road I felt that the exhaust brake worked extremely well.  There are not many choices with at Cat 3208 and Allison MT647 unless you have gobs of money and can afford to install an eddy current brake on your drive shaft.  I looked at all the options and this was all that was affordable/available.  Like the retarder it seemed to work better at high RPMs.  If I could afford the later transmission with a retarder I would get it in a second, I woud imagine there would be some way to hook it up.

John Cooper
 
---
Quote
On Thu, 8/12/10, Dave Head Wrote: 
 
The problem with an exhaust brake on a 3208 is that the exh valve springs are only 30#. For instance a C8.3 the heavy duty springs required for an exh brake are 65#. Of course ANY additional braking is a bonus, just know you can't expect too much out of one...
 
Quote
John Cooper wrote: 
Ron,
 
I am going to take the time to update you on my experience at Yosimite NP. We were coming down from the Upper Pines Campground in Yosemite NP. When we stopped at the Big Oak Flat entrance the Ranger told us our trailer brakes were smoking. We did not have trailer brakes, it turned out to be the coach's rear brakes. We pulled to the side of the road and waited an hour for them to cool down. We then stopped at an RV park just outside of Yosemite. After checking out Senora in the car we proceeded down the mountain with the car off the dolly. In the short twisty sections of the road I was able to keep the speed under control but when we hit a long straight stretch that was no longer the case. The brakes would not cool off enough between applications and so I would have to brake longer each time trying to keep from over revving the engine. Naturally the brakes got even hotter and began to smoke. I was just barely able to stop at a pull off and let the brakes cool down. The grade was not as steep from there on and so I did not have another problem. I had thought the rear seals must have leaked on the brakes but the shop said everything was o.k.
 
I will never, never go into the mountains again with out at least an exhaust brake, it was too harrowing! Brakes on the toad will help but as you can see even without a toad long, steep grades can be a problem. Installing my exhaust brake was a real pain because the brake was too long to fit between the turbo and the muffler. All the work and expense paid for itself many times over in the mountains of Wyoming and Montana. One particularly memorable road was between Lincoln and Helena Montana. I only used the air brakes a few times to slow down for the really tight curves.
 
My Cat 3208T is red lined at 2700 RPM and I suspect yours is too. I have been told that going over the red line can cause engine failure so it is very important to stay under the red line. The engine does not appear to provide much braking power so it isn't much help that the transmission is locked if the engine won't hold you under the red line.

John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP


Dave Head & Starr Martin
Oviedo, FL
95 U320C SE 40 07 Chevy Tahoe Z71
 
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #15
Check with the engine manufacturer for braking red line.  For Cummins it is 10% above that under acceleration.  So for the 2800 rpm example, revs to 3100 would be acceptable under braking.
Regards,
Brett

'99 42' Foretravel Xtreme
'14 Brown Motorsports Stacker
'05 Chevy SSR
'02 BMW R1150R

Re: Mountain driving

Reply #16
I'm right there with you  - my 93 didn't have an exh brake - I added a PRXB. I also looked at the cost of adding a trans retarder (they did make them on the MT platform) or the eddy current option - both were in the $10K range.
My 95 U320 is one that was NOT ordered with a retarder. I have a 2 speed jake wired as a one speed. It does the job.
The selected media item is not currently available. Dave Head & Megan Westbrook
Titusville, FL - The Great Outdoors
'98 270 buying this month
Toad is a 2018 F150 XLT