Re: sealand electric toilet
Reply #5 –
If the air escape is around the ball, the ball isn't sealing well. Happens at times, we've found especially after use with hard water.
Get yourself some paper towels, maybe a little liquid dish or hand soap if you want, rubber/latex gloves if you're inclined. Pull the ceramic cap off the back of the toilet - you'll see a circuit board with some toggle switches. The switch settings SHOULD be shown on a piece of paper, possibly on the underside of the cap.
Put the toilet in service mode with the appropriate switch. This should open the ball. You may need to depress the flush level as well, or even experiment with a few combinations (it can be finicky).
Once the ball is open, put on your gloves if using, take your paper towels, wad them up, dampen them with water and use soap if you like. Now clean the surface that the ball seats against, especially the rubber seal itself. Clean the ball edges as well (as best you can). Do take care not to scratch the surfaces (or drop anything down the plumbing). Take it out of service mode and see how it works (again, this may take some combination of returning the toggle to operate mode and depressing the flush lever).
It's a good idea to carry a spare ball and ball seal with you, just in case. Every 3 years you're supposed to replace the 4 duckbill valves, ball, and ball seal IF you're using the unit a lot. We went a bit longer than that before doing so. The ball seal and ball aren't too bad; the duckbills are inside the vacuum generator pump and tend to collect "material". Not an extremely difficult job, just somewhat unpleasant.
I'll see if we have the manual in .PDF format and have Steve upload it here.
Yes, these toilets do take more maintenance, but the flushing power is well worth the effort. These are apparently pretty common toilets in marine applications.
Michelle