Re: Chassis batteries not charging when engine and generator running
Reply #3 –
Larry, Don is asking a very good question, which is "Are you sure your alternator is charging your chassis batteries?"
When I read your question, I thought of several questions to ask, which you would have to answer before I could answer your question.
Here is why:
Battery voltage readings can be very misleading.
Dirty connectors between your chassis batteries and the dash voltmeter could result in voltmeter reading lower than the battery voltage, or in eratirc readings at dash voltmeter.
Whie discharging, battery voltages will be low.
While charging, battery voltages will be high.
If you have a "battery voltage - state of charge" table you will see that voltage of 12.7 volts = 100% charge, while 12.2 volts = 50% charge. However, 12.2 volts can occur with a 98% charged battery while providing 160 amps to your inverter to run your convection oven. Turn off the inverter and the battery voltage will rise back up spontaneously, rapidly at first, then more slowly over the next few hours (yes hours). If you take a voltage reading two hours later it will be close to the reading you really need to determine the state of charge, however, 10 hours later, the voltage will probably be a little higher. I say probably because temperature also effects battery voltage, so a winter time reading of 12.2v is somewhat different than a summer time reading of 12.2v.
The boost switch "ON" closes a solenoid which connects chassis batteries to coach batteries making one larger battery bank.
With boost "OFF", dash voltmeter shows chassis battery voltage with ignition on. The generator on or off will not effect this reading. The main engine on or off should effect this reading. You should see 12+v with engine off and 14+v with engine on.
With boost "ON" dash voltmeter shows (chassis + coach) battery voltage with ignition on. The generator on or off should effect this reading. The main engine on or off should also effect this reading. You should see 12+v with engine and genset off and 14+v with engine or genset on.
The alternator output is controlled by the chassis battery voltage but charges both chassis and coach batteries (via the diode isolator block - mine is behind the driver rear tires). The generator, which is started by the coach batteries, charges only the coach batteries unless the boost is on or you turn on your converter.
Here is what I would do:
With everything off, check voltages of chassis and coach batteries at batteries for a couple days. Start main engine with boost off and check voltage at coach batteries. If 14+v at batteries, all is well. Now check dash voltmeter, if still only 12+v, look for bad wiring or connectors. If only 12v or less at chassis batteries, check alternator output.