Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Topic: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX (Read 3928 times) previous topic - next topic

Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

September 13, 2010, 11:16:05 pm

John,

Corrosion Block is a fine product. A superior product is CorrosionX.

Corrosion Block is FAA certified as is CorrosionX but for 18 months where CorrosionX is good up to 24 months. An example is CorrosionX is authorized for spraying the interior of wings, tail fins and fuselage every other annual inspection.

In our application to fight rust, applying either product every 6 months is a good idea due to repeated exposure to moisture and road contaminates uses up the corrosion fighting aspects of either product. It is similar to an aggressive marine environment that uses up anodes installed to fight electrolyses in boats.

CorrosionX is all synthetic and will not stain the gelcoat on my Foretravel or a fiberglass boat in marine applications.

CorrosionX has the 36k volt dielectric rating as does Corrosion Block.

Corrosion Block is made in Canada while CorrosionX is made in Dallas.

CorrosionX can be sourced at MOT or Xtreme Paint and Graphics.

As long as there is no movement, another idea to kill corrosion is to liberally apply Ospho to the affected area which will chemically kill corrosion and prime the area. When dry, paint exterior surfaces with a good quality paint, no rinsing necessary.

Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #1 – September 14, 2010, 12:44:44 am

Corrosion x is well known in aviation circles - try Aircraft Spruce and Specialty http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/corrosionx.php for an on-line source

Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #2 – September 14, 2010, 10:35:26 pm

My introduction to Corrosion Block was a radio coated with the stuff submerged in a fish tank of water and still playing. Corrosion Block is available here in Houston at marine supply stores and I do not have to pay shipping charges.

Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #3 – September 14, 2010, 11:02:08 pm

AAhh! The old radio in the fish tank trick! Was it is fresh or salt water?

When you get a chance, try using your ohmeter in a glass of fresh water and check the resistance.

Or, stop by the marine store and make real friends with the owner and put some salt in the tank.

Oh, never mind. You would probably have to buy the radio after it fried.

Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #4 – September 15, 2010, 08:45:56 am

John,

CorrosionX is available at Cut Rate Fishing Tackle on the Gulf Freeway at the Fuqua exit here in Houston. They use it in their fishing reel repair department and no shipping for local customers of course.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #5 – September 15, 2010, 04:09:26 pm

2 years ago I bought some CorrosionX HD at Academy in the fishing section

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #6 – September 15, 2010, 05:48:11 pm

Rudy,

I am very familiar with Cut Rate when it was on Telephone Road. I haven't been to the new location which apparently called Fishing Tackle Unlimited. I had heard that the store on the Gulf Freeway had gone out of business but I just called and verified they are still going. When I run out of Corrosion Block I'll try CorrosionX.

John

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Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #7 – September 15, 2010, 07:59:01 pm

Amazon.com has Corrosion X & Corrosion X HD. Here's the description of the HD product:

"Product Description
CorrosionX Heavy Duty is for super long-term protection against serious rust and corrosion assault. For those really tough jobs where you need the ultimate protection against moisture, the answer is new CorrosionX Heavy Duty. There is no other product like it on the market today. It is a high performance, thick-film version of CorrosionX. It was developed specifically to provide maximum protection against moisture intrusion and resulting rust and corrosion.

STOPS AND PREVENTS CORROSION AND RUST
CorrosionX Heavy Duty forms a dripless, dynamic, non-hardening, self-healing film that stubbornly resists erosion by splash or spray - including complete submersion in saltwater. It will slowly penetrate existing rust and corrosion, remove moisture and stop electrolysis. And then it seals moisture out. Unlike wax coatings, it will not dry out, stiffen or crack under stress. It will remain for hours on outdrives, even while underway!"

A 12 oz aerosol can sells for $16.95.
If you have used this product, would you go with the HD or the regular?

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Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #8 – September 15, 2010, 09:08:15 pm

Dick,

I normally use the regular as it dries and does not attract dust. On the door piano hinge, bicycle chains, guns, fishing reels, enclosed circuit boards and most electrical connectors would be examples of applications I would use regular. Regular would be my choice for when I need a penetrating oil.

James Stallings really likes HD. I have not talked to him much about where he is using it.

One place that comes to mind is the power head of an outboard or in-board marine motor. When running in coastal bays, the combustion air being drawn in by the motor is salt laden and one would want HD protection and the extra amount of self-sealing offered by HD.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #9 – September 16, 2010, 10:40:31 am

Thanks Rudy. I think I'll order some from Amazon. Do you recommend the aerosol can or the spray bottle? Dick (in the rain, Seaside, OR)

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #10 – September 16, 2010, 10:43:17 am

Dick,

I have and use both. The spray bottle enables me to put a very small amount on a rag or on a Q-tip. That is difficult to do with the aerosol can. I recommend that you get one of each. And usually, the biggest shipping expense is for the first item.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #11 – September 16, 2010, 11:25:27 am

Dick,

George is right on. I have both aerosol and trigger spray bottle. But I also use it for everything so I get my money's worth out of each one.

Rust Management

Reply #12 – September 21, 2010, 10:49:26 pm

So although I don't drive the coach in the winter, the previous owner did (a lot apparently). I need some input on the use of Corrosion X & Ospho. I just ordered both and need a little coaching (pun intended).

On chassis beams or any areas that were once painted and are now corroding, do I apply Ospho, let dry??? sand off? then apply Corrosion X? could I repaint & then apply Corrosion X? How often do I reapply Corrosion X?

Can the Corrosion X come in contact with items such as the air bags, painted areas, gel coat, weather stripping?

Can I apply Corrosion X to the relays/solenoids/battery isolator or any other electrical connection? Again how often should the Corrosion X be reapplied?

Ditto with Ospho, should I use it to get corrosion/rust out of electrical items such as the relays/solenoids, refrigerator outer compartment rust, etc?

[/list] Thanks for the input.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #13 – September 22, 2010, 06:28:59 am

Peter,

Good questions. The simple answer is Corrosion X is for metals that are NOT going to be painted. So electrical connections, circuit boards, relays, battery isolator, hinges and moving parts, battery terminals and bolts and nuts you are trying to loosen are key applications for CorrosionX.

CorrosionX polar bonds to metal molecules vs coating the surface as does oil or dielectric grease. It can not be washed off with soap and water but can be removed with a strong solvent. CorrosionX can NOT be painted over, must be removed before painting.

CorrosionX prevents corrosion by polar bonding to the metal molecule stopping the oxygen molecules in the air from combining with the metal molecules and thereby forming corrosion. CorrosionX is used up over time and will eventually need a new application to keep corrosion prevention in place. It works similar to an anode on a boat which is used up over time sacrificing the anode instead of the boats metal.

How long it lasts is dependent on how aggressive the environment is. So a circuit board on a radio kept inside the coach will be protected for at least two years. The pins and the contact surfaces of my tow bar are exposed to the outdoor environment all the time and get sprayed every 3 months to maintain protection. I do not want to paint the pins and the surfaces that get the paint rubbed off by contact with the car's hitch.

CorrosionX is all synthetic and will not harm the air bags, weatherstripping, gelcoat and other surfaces on the coach.

More detailed info is always available by calling Corrosion X in Dallas.

Ospho is for metals that ARE going to be painted. Prep the surface by wire brushing, sanding and/or wiping clean. Then prime and kill the corrosion by applying Ospho. Once dry, no additional sanding is required, just coat with the paint of your choice for long lasting protection. Since Ospho kills the corrosion at the molecular level, you are not paint coating over any molecules of corrosion that could come back through the paint.

So, clean the metal beams under the coach, prime with Ospho and coat with the paint of your choice.

The rear facing surfaces of my engine and the metal beams in the rear of the coach were corroding. I wanted them to look clean and painted as when new so I did not use CorrosionX. I brushed them off, wiped clean and applied Ospho. I finished with flat black paint on the engine and steel frame members for a clean neat appearance. I could have used CorrosionX and reapplied about every 6 months if I did not want to paint.

Hope this helps you as I sure do like how these two products work for myself.

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Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #14 – September 22, 2010, 08:58:00 am

Rudy,
You answered all my questions w/o leaving any doubt as to the use & application of both Corrosion X & Ospho. Many thanks.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #15 – September 22, 2010, 10:27:17 am

Do steel corroded parts, like bottom latches for our pantographic doors, need to be cleaned before applying CorrosionX?
___

best, paul
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Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #16 – September 22, 2010, 11:22:41 am

Paul,

CorrosionX will slowly release all corrosion from the remaining good metal by soaking down through the corrosion and polar bonding to the good metal molecules. Cleaning by brushing or wiping loose rust will reduce the amount of CorrosionX needed to get the job done.

Remember, CorrosionX is not instantaneous. So spray today and wipe released corrosion tomorrow. Re-application may be necessary to get to good metal with no corrosion on the surface. However, wiping clean is not necessary to get protection. Just use enough CorrosionX to get the good metal protected.

Most of the time, when respraying the corrosion on the tow hitch pins and surfaces, I just spray away and do not worry about wiping clean as the corrosion is surface corrosion and not built up or encrusted. Also re-aplying as soon as any new corrosion is present keeps the surface clean and protected.

Using the product will bring your experience level up real fast.

To give you a short answer Paul, just go spray 'em. As long as you get all surfaces damp, you are good to go. Heavy build-up or encrustation is when cleaning first becomes helpful.

A big plus is you are lubricating the latches as you kill the corrosion.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #17 – September 22, 2010, 02:14:02 pm

Rudy,

That was very informative. thank you.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #18 – October 01, 2010, 02:32:50 pm

Quote from: Rudy – September 22, 2010, 06:28:59 am

Peter,

Good questions. The simple answer is Corrosion X is for metals that are NOT going to be painted. So electrical connections, circuit boards, relays, battery isolator, hinges and moving parts, battery terminals and bolts and nuts you are trying to loosen are key applications for CorrosionX.

CorrosionX polar bonds to metal molecules vs coating the surface as does oil or dielectric grease. It can not be washed off with soap and water but can be removed with a strong solvent. CorrosionX can NOT be painted over, must be removed before painting.

CorrosionX prevents corrosion by polar bonding to the metal molecule stopping the oxygen molecules in the air from combining with the metal molecules and thereby forming corrosion. CorrosionX is used up over time and will eventually need a new application to keep corrosion prevention in place. It works similar to an anode on a boat which is used up over time sacrificing the anode instead of the boats metal.

How long it lasts is dependent on how aggressive the environment is. So a circuit board on a radio kept inside the coach will be protected for at least two years. The pins and the contact surfaces of my tow bar are exposed to the outdoor environment all the time and get sprayed every 3 months to maintain protection. I do not want to paint the pins and the surfaces that get the paint rubbed off by contact with the car's hitch.

CorrosionX is all synthetic and will not harm the air bags, weatherstripping, gelcoat and other surfaces on the coach.

More detailed info is always available by calling Corrosion X in Dallas.

Ospho is for metals that ARE going to be painted. Prep the surface by wire brushing, sanding and/or wiping clean. Then prime and kill the corrosion by applying Ospho. Once dry, no additional sanding is required, just coat with the paint of your choice for long lasting protection. Since Ospho kills the corrosion at the molecular level, you are not paint coating over any molecules of corrosion that could come back through the paint.

So, clean the metal beams under the coach, prime with Ospho and coat with the paint of your choice.

The rear facing surfaces of my engine and the metal beams in the rear of the coach were corroding. I wanted them to look clean and painted as when new so I did not use CorrosionX. I brushed them off, wiped clean and applied Ospho. I finished with flat black paint on the engine and steel frame members for a clean neat appearance. I could have used CorrosionX and reapplied about every 6 months if I did not want to paint.

Hope this helps you as I sure do like how these two products work for myself.

Rudy,
A followup question:
Perhaps your isolator is not located in the same spot, but my isolator is located on the driver's side behind the duallies. Admitedly an engineerind design "fart". I would like to work on this area to eliminate the corrosion, but it would be a real PITA to have to remove all the electrical back there.

Is it safe to apply the Ospho in that beam area (so as not to come in contact with the electrical), then as painting behind the isolator, solenoids, etc. would not be possible, what would you do?

Could the Ospho be used to remove electrical connection corrosion, the coat with an appplication of Corrosion X, is dielectric grease better & longer lasting? What about using a battery terminal protection spray on these forsakenly located electrical connections?

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Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #19 – October 01, 2010, 05:43:25 pm

Peter,

I have the same setup, isolator located on the beam aft of the wheels.

I do not use Ospho to kill electrical connection corrosion. I use CorrosionX for that purpose.

Since you wish to paint the beam (remember CorrosionX can not be painted over), brush and/or wipe the beam clean. Then wipe or brush Ospho on on the beam. Be careful to avoid the electrical connections when applying the Ospho. When dry, use the paint of your choice.

Now that the beam is painted, wipe the accumulated road grime off the isolator, relays and connectors. Spray CorrosionX on all electrical connections. The isolator connections and the body of the isolator. The relays and all connectors. Since the beam is now painted, over spray onto the beam is no problem. The area behind the isolator can be protected by spraying CorrosionX above the isolator and letting it run down onto the metal. Any exposed bare metal that is no longer coated with paint due to abrasion (scratch) or corrosion will be polar bonded by CorrosionX which will kill the corrosion and provide protection just like for the electrical connections.

No additional products are needed to have corrosion protection on the isolator, relays and connectors for the next three to six months. If you travel regularly and drive through rain, spray CorrosionX in three months. If you sit for long periods and do not splash much rain onto the isolator, spray CorrosionX in six months. Stored, especially indoors, and not used at all, spray in two years. Unlike grease, CorrosionX does not tend to attract dust.

CorrosionX will penetrate and polar bond to all bare metal molecules which is much better than other products that coat the surface. And will do so without having to take the connectors apart or remove battery terminals to coat the post with grease. It is not only super lubricating, it is super penetrating due to the polar bonding characteristic not present in almost all other products.

For what it is worth, CorrosionX will not burn since it is not petroleum based and has no solvents.

Hope this helps you. It is the most effective, easiest and requiring only one product to kill electrical corrosion or lube and kill corrosion on moving parts I know of.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #20 – October 01, 2010, 05:56:47 pm

Thank you very much, Rudy. I'm ready to go for it!

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #21 – October 03, 2010, 05:45:49 pm

Rudy,
On a new installation, would you advise using Corrosion X on the terminal stud, terminal, and finally on the nut after tightening it? Or just put it all together and then spray it?
Thanks.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #22 – October 03, 2010, 08:57:21 pm

Dick,

I think that if you lightly sprayed all parts before assembly, you will get the best protection. When cleaning a fishing reel or a weapon, one would spray the parts and then assemble to assure complete surface protection. When assembled, the item can be wiped to remove excess CorrosionX as in the outside of a weapon or reel body. But most things can be left with the excess in place to prolong protection.

Another application for CorrosionX is the table top of wood working power tools. CorrosionX will kill and protect the bare metal table top surface and lube it to make moving the wood across the top easier. Here is an example of a surface to spray lightly and then wipe the excess off. The polar bonded layer left behind will not come off and will not stain the wood being worked.

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #23 – October 19, 2010, 05:06:55 pm

I recently purchased a gallon of Corrosion X. I bought a spray bottle, filled it with the product but could not get a mist as the viscosity is such that the hand pump does not create enough pressure to atomize Corrosion X. Following is what I asked and the results of my email:

Peter,
This is the reply from the manufacturer, I hope this helps.
"Hello Josh, Yes, you can cut corrosion x with mineral spirits to thin. It will affect the performance of the product to same degree it was cut but shoud still be effective. Regards, Fred
　
Regards,
Josh Solis
　
From: petermartin@fuse.net
To: Aircraft Spruce

I just received the gallon of Corrosion X and would like to know if the product can also be thinned so I can use it in a spray bottle. The viscosity is such that I can only get a stream to come out of the spray bottle nozzle. Would using mineral spirits alter the chemistry of Corrosion X?

Now, the issue is to try to by trial and error thin the product enough to atomize without dilluting it "too" much. It may take more frequent applications with the dilluted Corrosion X.

FWIW

Re: Corrosion Block / CorrosionX

Reply #24 – October 19, 2010, 05:25:55 pm

Peter,

I believe the primary use of liqiud CorrosionX is in the aviation industry where the liquid CorrosionX is placed in a container that is driven by an shop air pressure system connected to a special wand made to go deep into a wing or fuselage and mist the interior surfaces. You can look on their website for several sizes of these applicators.

The high pressure air sure helps produce the mist one is looking for. I have no experience misting with the trigger sprayer. I have gently squeezed a trigger sprayer to only get a little bit out at a time.

Wish I could be of more help to you.

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