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Topic: Battery Safety (Read 908 times) previous topic - next topic

Battery Safety

I will admit that I am somewhat intimidated (maybe even a bit terrified) of working around my 12Volt batteries -- especially those big honkin' 8Ds. I would find it real helpful to learn how to clean battery terminals in a step-by-step procedure that makes sure a cable doesn't touch something it should not; that a wrench does not touch something it should not and that I don't do something stupid that will hurt me or damage something.

George Stoltz.  Retired from full-time living in a great Foretravel and now are back to living in a traditional sticks and bricks in Florida.

Re: Battery Safety

Reply #1 –
Quote
I would find it real helpful to learn how to clean battery terminals in a step-by-step procedure that makes sure a cable doesn't touch something it should not; that a wrench does not touch something it should not and that I don't do something stupid that will hurt me or damage something.

   1.   Remove the battery cables from the battery terminals by loosening the nut on each cable clamp. Once they are loose, always remove the cable clamp from the negative terminal first. It's marked with a minus (-) sign; the positive terminal has a plus (+) sign. Reverse the procedure, positive first, negative second, when replacing the cables. The cable may not come off easily. You will have to wiggle it and lift it upward until the clamp comes off the terminal post. Be careful not to short any tools you use against the car when they're in contact with the battery.
   2.   Examine the battery cables and clamps for excess wear or corrosion. Should damage appear extensive, replace the cables and clamps to avoid future problems.
   3.   Check the battery case for cracks and the terminals for damage. If you find either, replace the battery.
   4.   Secure the loose cables so that they don't accidentally flop back onto the terminals.
   5.   Pour some baking soda directly onto the posts.
   6.   Dip a toothbrush in water and use it to scrub the baking Soda into the terminal posts and cable clamps. Skin and eye protection is recommended.
   7.   If the toothbrush isn't doing the job, Use a battery terminal cleaner brush on it. Also shine up the insides of the cable clamps by using the clamp cleaner that usually comes attached to the terminal brush or use a plain, soap-free steel wool pad.
   8.   Dry everything off with a clean, disposable, lint-free rag.
   9.   Cover all exposed metal surfaces on the battery posts, battery cables, and clamps.
   10.   Replace the positive clamp first and then replace the negative clamp. Tighten them down with the proper sized wrench.
   11.   Replace the rubber boot or plastic shield that covers the positive terminal. If you don't have one, go and buy some from your local auto parts store.
The selected media item is not currently available.Barry BEAM #16014
2003 U320 40' AGDS
Beamalarm, Foretravel technical help and specifications
"Whatever the mind can conceive and believe, it can achieve"

Re: Battery Safety

Reply #2 –
An other ider, is to tape up/insulate the unused end of the 1/2" wrench you use on the clamp nuts, that way you are less likely to short one end of wrench out.
Dave

Re: Battery Safety

Reply #3 –
I would also suggest that you make sure that your boost switch is not "switched" and that your ProSine is turned off.
Paul
36' 2000 U320
Paul
36' 2000 U320
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit

Re: Battery Safety

Reply #4 –
Several companies make a spray on battery terminal cleaner product that will work well also.  In any case make sure you do not get either the baking soda or battery terminal cleaner in a battery cell.  The battery cable clamps on my Grand Villa are lead and I use a battery terminal clamp puller to remove them.  You can sometimes use a pair of flat blade screwdrivers to spread the clamp open before reinstalling it.  I have found that those little felt washers seem to help keep the terminals cleaner.  I use a bungee cord to keep the cables away from the batteries while I am working on them.
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

Re: Battery Safety

Reply #5 –
And, above all, safety first.  Safety glasses, removing rings (gold is the "perfect" conductor) & watches, loose cuffs, sufficient light, and check for gas.

Non-sealed lead-acid batteries contain a liquid sulphuric acid electrolyte. If the battery casing is split, the acid can leak out. In batteries is it quite concentrated and will easily burn the skin and clothing.

All lead-acid batteries produce hydrogen and oxygen during the recharging process. This production is increased if overcharging occurs. Sealed designs cause recombination of the oxygen at the same rate is produced, therefore eliminating the explosive mixture. Hydrogen which is produced will permeate plastic containers and as long as the sealed battery is not in a sealed small area, the hydrogen will harmlessly dissipate into the atmosphere. It is always good practice to allow for ventilation even with sealed batteries

If batteries are charging (like after you jump start a car), or just were charged, gas is present, so, if possible, as you remove the negative wire or put the negative wire, make sure there is no gas in the area.  If you jump a car, the last negative hook-up should be to a part of the car that is connected to the ground terminal through the chassis, like a metal part on the engine, frame, or metal bumper.  A spark there is away from the gas.

Handling acid spills require gloves.

Michael Baldacchino
'97 40' U320

Re: Battery Safety

Reply #6 –
Quote from: John Cooper –
Several companies make a spray on battery terminal cleaner product that will work well also. 

The mechanic that cleaned my battery terminals last used that spray-on stuff. I was quite impressed with the results. He let it sit for about 15 minutes and then wiped it off with a clean rag. Dang terminals were bright and shiny, inside and out.

He then reconnected the cables and tightened the clamps. Then he sprayed a red sealer over the terminals, covering the metal parts. I had not seen this before either. Deka dealers sell the red sealer.

I bought a can of each and put it in the coach. Neither was very expensive.

Re: Battery Safety

Reply #7 –
Duane,
Similar products are available at most auto parts stores.  I use them as well.  I also use a very light coating of dielectric grease between the post & the cable clamp.  This helps with the removel process and also prevents corrosion.
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH