Clearance Lights

Topic: Clearance Lights (Read 1897 times) previous topic - next topic

Clearance Lights

September 29, 2010, 09:14:20 pm

I am talking about the Front "forehead" or "brow" clearance lights.

One bulb, in the center cluster of three, has burned out. I found that the light fixture had been siliconed into the fiberglass cut-out/hole - not a surprise because I have known that leaks around these lights are a fairly well-known event.

I got the fixture out with some difficulty, and instlled a replacement bulb, but my question is what is the best goop to seal it up again?

Maybe a better way of putting it would be is there a better product than silicone? 3M 4200 or 5200 come to mind, but I have no experience with these two compounds; however, I have been led to believe that 5200 is a near-permanent fix, and I don't want to have to destroy the fixture or the fiberglass if it has to be replaced again.

I will appreciate all thoughts and ideas!

OBTW - the mounting screws are rusty suggesting some leakage in the past, but I have no evidence (or history) of leaks. 2003 Coach and I have been the Owner since March, 2010.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #1 – September 29, 2010, 09:27:59 pm

Dan,
It seems us U270 34 ft coach owners have similar issues with the front marker lights. Mine is the top driver's position fixture. Three yeats ago I replaced the bulb mount and put a small amount of silicone II (GE product) and now the leak is back and the bulb has burned out again. This is an item on the to-do list as well.

This time, I'm heading to the auto parts store and see what they have for gasket material. I'll cut out a new gasket using the old as the template.

My issue is that the marker fixture is so high up the front cap that the curvature of the fiberglass cap allows for water intrusion as the gasket or silicone begin to shrink with time.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #2 – September 29, 2010, 09:29:13 pm

4200 and 5200 are great products, but are adhesive sealants. It is difficult (4200) or nearly impossible (5200) to break the seal once they have cured.

I would recommend a 100% clear RTV silicone.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #3 – September 29, 2010, 10:00:17 pm

Quote

Quote from DH Spoor: "what is the best goop to seal it up again?"

At Lowe's you can buy PolyseamSeal all-purpose adhesive/sealant, exterior. It comes in a full tube for caulking gun or a squeezable tube. I have caulked the front cap/roof junction, around the sewer vent, all of the lag bolts holding our Datstorm satellite dish to the roof, and haven't had a single leak in more than five years. It comes in clear and white.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #4 – September 30, 2010, 07:59:10 am

Thanks Peter, Bob and Don.

Today I'm going on a search for gasket material, and PolySeamSeal; I already have the clear RTV Silicone. Also going to get a handful of Stainless Screws.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #5 – September 30, 2010, 09:23:03 pm

Our 03 leaked through those marker lights, found out we had a problem as we drove through the outer bands of a hurricane as it made its way in to the northeast. When I removed the back of the overhead cabinets there was a LOT of water up there.

Anyway at that time the marker lights were just in there with the original gaskets, I seem to recall some of the gaskets had slits in them, as though they were replaced, and the slits were pointing upward which would trap the water and not let it drain out. I tried some RTV silicone on the gaskets (a bead of sealant around the perimeter as I did not want to glue them in place). That fix seemed to work until we went through the outer bands of the second hurricane of that season. I think that's also when we discovered the 03 wiper mechanism recall as the wipers would over turn and knock the blades out of the arms. I know you are thinking "good times" with water dripping down on our heads from the TV cabinet while your wiper blades are falling off during heavy heavy rain.

Enough rambling ... don't use RTV silicone unless you have no resort, its hard to remove when you need to and difficult to 'fix' if you don't get it sealed right (it does not like more RTV over it), plus as it cures it releases acid which is bad for electrical connections.

You already have some good suggestions, my only addition would be Parlastic sealant from Parr, good stuff.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #6 – October 01, 2010, 09:28:07 am

Thanks Steve -

I used the PolySeamSealer (Lowe's) on the one that was burned out. All have been re-sealed with Silicone (Ugh!) in the past. Now I need to decide on whether to launch a clean out and re-caulk project or wait a while to see how the newly "fixed" one holds up.

OBTW - I couldn't identify the bulb that I took out. I had a #164 that was labeled as a 'side marker' and 'license plate' bulb, and it worked. But I took the old one to a local Good-Ol'-Boy auto parts store, and the clerk said, "Oh! You need a 194 which is not 'long-life' or the 193 which is rated for a lot more hours." So I bought some of those and used the 193 instead. Hope he is right!

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #7 – October 01, 2010, 10:26:50 am

I changed my lights over to LEDs and hope to never have to worry about it again. It was not expensive and it has not leaked and i have not had to change any out so far. I use my lights a lot as I drive in the early morning and into the evening more than most. It is a lot easier to run the east coast later at night especially going around NY down to DC area.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #8 – October 01, 2010, 10:31:03 am

I am sure that this has been covered before but I'll ask anyway.
After reading Steve's on clearance lights I went to replace the RF one on my GV as it was burned out. I also checked inside the front cabinet and found water from a heavy rain the night before.
The GV is really difficult to reach to marker lights above the WS. I Need to replace all the clearance lights as they are cracked and broken and LED's are in mind.
The Question .... Has any one with a GV figured out how to reach the center lights above the WS ? I can reach the outers from a ladder but the back angle makes it impossible to reach the center. At one time a tried lying ( Laying ) down on the roof to reach them but I am not as Young and agile as I used to be and this is not workable now.
Thanks for any workable suggestions.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #9 – October 01, 2010, 11:17:48 am

Gary,
Have you considerd getting a ladder stabilizer attachment? I have one I purchased at Lowe's along with my step ladder. I think this may work.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/150443495601?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
I bought a Werner aluminum ladder with the attachment for $100 at Lowe's.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #10 – October 01, 2010, 02:20:27 pm

Peter, The problem with this as I see it is that the ladder is at such a low angle that you would almost be laying on it to work AND the stabilizers would hold the ladder off the WS so far that very long arms would be needed to reach the lights. If anyone has been in NAC and seen techs work on these lights on a GV I'd like to see how they do it.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #11 – October 02, 2010, 08:11:39 am

Gary, I watched them work on my windshield seal and putting my new member number and decal on my U225. They used construction type scaffolding on each side of the coach with 2 X 12 boards running across the front to stand on. That way the boards can be very close to the windshield and they can move from side to side without moving equipment. Worked great in the shop but not too practical for home use.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #12 – October 02, 2010, 06:34:22 pm

Really sounds like a good location for good LED clearance lights. That way you should never have to worry about them again.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #13 – October 02, 2010, 10:51:41 pm

Apparently you don't have hail the size of baseballs in NY. Ain't nothin that will withstand that impact. Remember, we are based in Oklahoma.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #14 – October 03, 2010, 12:04:55 pm

Kent, If all that suffers is clearance lights in an OKIE Hail storm you are fortunate. Another good reason to have a Fiberglas FT instead of a metal sided or roofed MH.
I am going to replace all clearance lights with LED's if I can figure out how to get to them safely.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #15 – October 03, 2010, 04:25:58 pm

Oh! did I forget to mention the skylight, both AC Covers, the refrigerator vent cover and the fantastic fan cover. It came to about $5,000 on the FT accessories and not a ding on the body. That hail did about $10,000 to the cars and $20,000 to the year old roof and gutters. We had a hail storm the year before that totaled out the house roof and swimming pool liner. However, we went 15 years without a claim before the first hail storm happened.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #16 – October 14, 2010, 09:52:28 am

There is more than worrying about the WS with that ladder attachment. The WS slopes enough that the ladder would be at too great an angle to be safe, more than likely the feet would slip out unless you could stake it somehow. Since I have to work on my in front of my house on a concrete street that will not work, neither will the scaffolding as it would be in the middle of the street.

Engineers in the crowd, we need a solution!

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #17 – October 14, 2010, 10:35:49 am

Today I am going to try to replace the clearance lights with LED's. I have about given up on using a ladder as I worry about my new WS's, if ladder slips I could be in deep doodoo, Newest solution ( I think) is a foam rubber piece I salvaged from an old couch, I think I am going to lay it on the roof at the front and then lay ( lie ) down on it and see if I can reach the lights. I am not real confident when I am on the roof.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #18 – October 14, 2010, 11:03:25 am

We were at Mustang Island and I discovered that the wood picnic table made an excellent and stable platform to stand on. DW and I just dragged the table to wherever I had to work. So finding a camp ground with moveable tables might work for you.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #19 – October 14, 2010, 11:11:32 am

George, I have used picnic tables also in the past. My problem is the slant on the WS on a U280, the Bus types are easy to get to the front clearance lights but the GV's are the pits.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #20 – October 14, 2010, 11:33:28 am

Home Depot sells a nice knockdown roll around four foot scaffold. That and a small two step ladder would work.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #21 – October 14, 2010, 12:12:13 pm

Several of the above comments mention changing the clearance lights over to LED lights. Is there any particular light that is suggested? And what is involved in changing them over?

Thank you very much.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #22 – October 14, 2010, 12:36:27 pm

Morris,
Start with the linked post, and go from there:
http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10778.msg51398#msg51398

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #23 – October 14, 2010, 12:47:06 pm

Quote from: Peter & Beth – October 14, 2010, 12:36:27 pm

Morris,
Start with the linked post, and go from there:
http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=10778.msg51398#msg51398

Thank you very much!! I will try to digest this in the near future. I think all of our lights are currently working. So it may be a preventive project.

Re: Clearance Lights

Reply #24 – October 14, 2010, 01:00:06 pm

Morris,
The main advantage of the upgrade to LED lights is that:
1. Much longer life span
2. Miniscule energy consumption...less drain on starting batteries

Surely someone else will add to my list, perhaps light quality may be better as well.

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