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Topic: plumbing manifold (Read 1128 times) previous topic - next topic

plumbing manifold

Any know who makes our plumbing manifold?

I need to find the cpvc part that connects to the top and bottom of the water manifold.
It is a custom part that has a collar and rubber seal and is held tight to the manifold with the brass round threaded 'nut'

Re: plumbing manifold

Reply #2 –
Try this for parts...
 
Vanguard Water Manifold (Viga)
 
800-775-5039
 
831 N. Vanguard
McPherson, KS 67460
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: plumbing manifold

Reply #3 –
Thanks for the identification that we are using Manibloc water manifolds.
Talking with Foretravel & Manibloc, I learned there are no parts for our CPVC type of Manibloc.

So we put marine epoxy on our cracked fitting and let it dry for 3 days.

Then cut out a new rubber washer to replace an original part, using a clever X-acto swivel knife. 

All is now working ok and we have back our normal indoor plumbing.

Re: plumbing manifold

Reply #4 –
Quote from: Barry & Cindy –
Thanks for the identification that we are using Manibloc water manifolds.
Talking with Foretravel & Manibloc, I learned there are no parts for our CPVC type of Manibloc.


Good to hear you were able to repair.  Had you not been successful, what would the solution have been?  A whole new manibloc?

Michelle
Learn every day, but especially from the experiences of others. It's cheaper!  - John C. Bogle

2000 U320 36' non-slide / WildEBeest Rescue
2003 U320

Re: plumbing manifold

Reply #5 –

I had several work-arounds in my mind if the epoxy did not hold. But they all are dependent on using the 1/8" rubber I found at Lowe's.

1) Our top connectors are not being used since I redesigned our plumbing in
 the water pump area and put in a new hot water tank. So I could use a top CPVC connector on the bottom and seal off the open top.
2) Seal off the bottom where I had the crack. And then connect the bottom
 hose to a lower side manifold connection.

3) Install a new type of Manibloc manifold that uses O-rings instead of rubber washers and make new top/bottom connectors to match our plumbing.

Re: plumbing manifold

Reply #6 –
I don't think I have one of these manifolds on my simple 96 U270.  If I do, I don't know where it is.  However, I enjoyed studying the jpg, trying to identify all that is there and to appreciate how someone else solves problems ... so neatly.

Why the electrical extension?  What is powered....
What are the little plastic containers (we use them for leftovers in the refrigerator) doing there strapped or bunged in?

Andy1
Carolyn and Lewis (Andy1) Anderson
1996 U270 36'

Re: plumbing manifold

Reply #7 –
Quote from: Lewis Anderson –
I don't think I have one of these manifolds on my simple 96 U270.  If I do, I don't know where it is.  However, I enjoyed studying the jpg, trying to identify all that is there and to appreciate how someone else solves problems ... so neatly.

Why the electrical extension?  What is powered....
What are the little plastic containers (we use them for leftovers in the refrigerator) doing there strapped or bunged in?

Andy1
Andy1,
You should have the same manifold.  It is located next to the water heater/water pump in the passenger side utility bay.  Barry shows his in the picture with the cover removed to show all the interior connections, etc.
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: plumbing manifold

Reply #8 –
When I looked at what Andy saw in our water manifold photo, I see some of our mods are on display.
I have removed and thrown away the manifold carpeted cover, water tank covers, etc. Basically anything in the water bays that is for looks only as we can use the space behind them. And keeping the covers off allows me to inspect for leaks, etc.
So this is what I see whenever the bay door is lifted.

On the left is a power strip that is turned on from inside our living area. Four 200-watt heaters are plugged into this power strip. One of the heaters is shown in the bottom right.
Heavy duty aluminum foil covers a couple of water lines that are near the warm air flow from our heater.
These are the personal heaters (Walmart) that someone on our Forum recommended a month ago
On the upper left is a black extension cord from the other side so I can have inverter power on this side.
On the left is our newly re-routed green-white fresh water tank overflow hose that now goes through the floor far from the bulkhead.

The two little kitchen clear plastic boxes hold wire connections and a relay that were needed when we put in a new Atwood hot water tank that uses the circuit board to manage electric heat.
The connections are to our new hot water tank switch plate in the kitchen. The boxes are held closed and in place with black plastic cable ties. We added small LED lamps on the switch plate to tell us when the circuit board is calling for heat. When the lamps are off, we know we have a full tank of hot water.
On the bottom floor are a water leak detection alarm (Harbor Freight) and a remote wireless thermometer sensor.

To the right of the manifold on the 2nd water connection, there is a neon light that indicates when the hot water heating element is powered.

We had to run a new water line to the bath, so the original line is hanging on the right side of the manifold.

Over time we have modified water lines so I can easily bypass the Atwood hot water tank for winterizing. And a few other water line connections have been changed and simplified.
Since we only fill our freshwater tank with a gravity feed connection we installed years ago, the original water lines to and from the bathroom cabinet water valve have been removed.

And of course the removed water connection with the cracked CPVC piece that started this posting thread is staring at me under the bottom of the manifold.
Water manifold plumbing is a feature of high-end quality construction. Each connection can be separately turned off and only home-run lines are used with no splices along the way in an inaccessible location. More plumbing lines have to be run to use a central manifold. Also higher water flows are possible to each water faucet. Most years Foretravel used hard plastic-type of plumbing lines. Later years used PEX lines. I believe only a limited number of coaches were built with the type of flexible plumbing lines used in our coach. All of our plumbing lines were purchased custom made with 1/2" threaded ends attached as they are very long runs, each a different length.