Starting Bulk Head Repair

Topic: Starting Bulk Head Repair (Read 1038 times) previous topic - next topic

Starting Bulk Head Repair

February 12, 2011, 11:43:52 am

I know this is a old topic, I have read this post till I can't see straight . But now i have time to do check, and repair. On the visual inspection it looks pretty clean very little surface rust and no separation. Called Mark Harvey and he said leave alone and just drill sister holes, 4 to 8 bolts and nuts. In my mind I think I should remove all bolts enlarge and bolt, I tend to over think, and over kill things. I'm sure you guys are sick of talking about this subject, but if you can aim me in the right direction I would be grateful. The water proof plugs or make a little larger holes and run a strip of aluminum 4 inches wide and all the way across a few SS screws and seal. What do you THINK

?? Thinks Art PS; I know I saw some pictures of the holes and repair but I still learning how to navigate this Forum.......

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #1 – February 12, 2011, 11:58:03 am

I suggest neither over-kill nor ignore a potential issue.

If you put a torque wrench on the existing bolts (per my post) and they prove good, I would do nothing.

If one or more breaks, decide whether you want to remove and thru-bolt or "sister" the failed Rolok.

But I would not attempt to remove a perfectly good Rolok bolt that is holding-- a little rust on the threads could cause YOU to break a perfectly good fastener.

The only reason I can see for removal of a good bolt (holds torque) is if you have a rust issue in the bulkhead and need to open the "joint". And I would strongly suggest that this is not something the average owner should even contemplate.

Brett

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #2 – February 12, 2011, 01:09:49 pm

Quote from: prevostart

I'm sure you guys are sick of talking about this subject, but if you can aim me in the right direction I would be grateful. The water proof plugs or make a little larger holes and run a strip of aluminum 4 inches wide and all the way across a few SS screws and seal. What do you THINK ?? Thinks Art PS; I know I saw some pictures of the holes and repair but I still learning how to navigate this Forum.......

Here are some photos
Bulkhead Separation
Bulkhead Separation

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #3 – February 12, 2011, 05:24:42 pm

The one difficulty - actually drilling the holes. You'll need a GOOD SHARP bit. Even with that it's tough. The two that I replaced were right in front of the rear duals so I was able to pry on the drill using a 2 x 4 pressed against the tires. To plug the hole that I drilled to install the nuts I just filled back up with some spray foam insulation. You should be able to see where the longitudinal beams are so you don't drill into them, or use a magnet to locate them.

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #4 – February 12, 2011, 06:59:40 pm

Gayland,

That area gets a lot of water on it when driving in rain.

I would spring for the proper waterproof plugs (under $2 each from a Heyco distributor) and size the holes in the fiberglass bottom to accommodate those plugs.

If you have to drill LOTS of holes in the FG bottom, yes, I would consider a sheet of FG that spanned all the holes, screwed in place and using a good polysulfide caulk.

Brett

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #5 – February 13, 2011, 02:40:19 am

I drilled 7 new bolt holes, and the way I found the best, was to use a right angle drill (Dewalt cordless) and an Irwin quick clamp bar clamp. Drill the access hole (1 3/8"), then one jaw of the Irwin goes in that hole, and the other jaw pushes against the head of the drill (I used Velcro on the jaw and the head of the drill to keep it from sliding off.) Start drilling, keep squeezing on the Irwin. Avoids having to grow any extra muscles.

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #6 – February 13, 2011, 07:53:38 am

Routine drilling "techniques" work fine for getting through the 1/4" angle and then the box beam. They include:

Quality bits such as cobalt.

Start with a small bit and go up in steps.

Use low RPM so as not to "burn" the bit.

Use lots of cutting oil for cooling and removal of the debris.

Use proper (heavy) pressure so you are actually cutting, not just polishing the hole.

The access hole in the FG bottom just requires a hole saw of the proper diameter (determined by the waterproof plug). As soon as the floor layer is cut, STOP. The foam core can be easily cut with a knife to give access to the "back" of the box beam.

Brett

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #7 – February 13, 2011, 11:05:10 am

As far as removing the bolts, some of them may have the end of the bolt in another tube that runs fore and aft, in which case installing a bolt with nut in that location is impossible. Best to install additional bolts in between the good Rolok bolts. I foamed and fiberglassed the holes that I made for the nuts. It's nasty work, but the bottom is sealed again without much chance of water getting past. There is enough surface tension to hold a patch in place until the resin hardens. The area around the hole needs to be cleaned and sanded, which is best to do before cutting the holes. Be careful not to cut or drill into any tanks above the floor. You need a mask and goggles to keep fiberglas particles out of your lungs and eyes. Wet the area around the hole with resin. Saturate a fiberglas mat patch and place it over the hole. A resin filled throw away brush can be used to flatten the patch by patting or dabbing; brushing as with paint, does not work on mat fiberglas. If you have never worked with fiberglas and resin, this is not a good project to start with.

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #8 – February 13, 2011, 02:59:47 pm

On our rig (99 U270, several of the access holes ran into thick (1.5" plywood, and it was a pain to remove - with rotary rasp bit, chisel, etc. following the hole saw (be very careful not to saw into the upper surface or drill into it with the pilot drill!!!)

I didn't foam and fiberglass the holes - used hole plugs - but if you are fiberglassing, a good trick to get the surface smoothed is to put a piece of plastic kitchen wrap (polyethylene) on top of the saturated fiberglass mat and then just press it into place with something smooth to get a smooth surface. After the polyester or epoxy hardens, the wrap will lift off.

Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 11, 2025 ...

Starting Bulk Head Repair

February 12, 2011, 11:43:52 am

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #1 – February 12, 2011, 11:58:03 am

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #2 – February 12, 2011, 01:09:49 pm

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #3 – February 12, 2011, 05:24:42 pm

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #4 – February 12, 2011, 06:59:40 pm

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #5 – February 13, 2011, 02:40:19 am

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #6 – February 13, 2011, 07:53:38 am

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #7 – February 13, 2011, 11:05:10 am

Re: Starting Bulk Head Repair

Reply #8 – February 13, 2011, 02:59:47 pm

Affiliate Notice