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Topic: In storage tire protection question (Read 955 times) previous topic - next topic

In storage tire protection question

Ok, since it was mentioned some time back about tire protection, I believe it was Don Hay who said he parks his coach tires on commercial plastic cutting boards from walmart. With brand new tires on our coach and wanting to protect them for as long as I can, if we are parked inside a completely closed pole building is there really a purpose to seperate the tires from the dry concrete ?
Ive been keeping my eyes open for some type of material I can recycle but then I wonder how thick it should be if I do use a plastic of some type ?
If moisture can soak into the tires Id like to stop it. Can I use a 6 mil plastic, plastic carpet runner, etc or am I wasting my time and energy looking?
The barn is not heated but it is dry. If plastic would be a good idea please give me some other ideas that would work that may be laying around my other barn.
Many thanks in advance :)
Carl Sandel
1991 36' U280
Northern Michigan

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #1 –
Carl,

This is advice from Goodyear for RV tire storage:


"Ideally, a vehicle in storage should be placed on blocks to remove all weight from the tires. If the vehicle cannot be put on blocks, follow these steps for tire protection:

Completely unload the vehicle so that minimum weight will be placed on the tires
Inflate tires to recommended operating pressure plus 25%. Ensure that the rim manufacturer's inflation capacity is not exceeded
Be sure the storage surface is firm, clean, well drained and reasonably level
Avoid moving the vehicle during extremely cold weather
Move the vehicle at least every three months to prevent ozone cracking in the tire bulge area, as well as "flat-spotting" from the prolonged strain of sidewall and tread deflection
Adjust inflation before putting the vehicle back into service"

Years ago, I bought an old 1984 Southwind with only 27K miles on it (Dodge 440). It had been sitting in one spot for 15 years. The fellows wife had died and he could not bring himself to use it as it had so many memories. After he died, the family put new batteries in it, filled it with propane and fuel from the fuel truck and sold it to me for $500. It started OK but hopped up and down like a pogo stick when we moved it. I used back roads up the Sacramento Delta but after about 15 miles, the hopping stopped and we cruised home. I remember the tires on one side that was exposed to the sun had some checking in the side walls.

I do start our U300 once a week if home in the winter and move it a few feet. Not that cold here to worry about tire damage by moving it.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #2 –
Nice! Thanks for that great information. I really appreciate it  :)
Carl Sandel
1991 36' U280
Northern Michigan

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –

I do start our U300 once a week if home in the winter and move it a few feet. Not that cold here to worry about tire damage by moving it.

Pierce,

Starting your diesel engine and moving only a couple of feet is really touch on the engine.  Particularly in cold weather, if started, you want to run a diesel long enough AND UNDER ENOUGH LOAD to get the oil, not just coolant up to temperature.  It takes a minimum of 20 highway miles to achieve this.  Anything less adds water vapor (a normal combustion by-product) to the crankcase rather than reducing it.

Also, getting the tires up to warmer temperatures allows the emoluments in the tires to migrate to the surface where they help protect the time from UV, ozone, etc.

Brett
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #4 –
Brett,

Absolutely correct. Until the oil temperature reaches 180 degrees, internal condensation occurs. Along with this condensation, harmful acids/compounds (more than 250 different) are formed from the combustion products that get by the rings. Even after reaching the 180 mark, it takes a while for the condensation to evaporate.

Most of the time, we just take it to town to get groceries. That gets the engine hot and by the time we are home, we have killed a least two birds with our stone in the hour or so it takes.

With the 600 rpm idle speed, I don't like to go off and leave it running for any length of time. With the mechanical Detroits, we had a fast idle switch that brought the rpm up to 1000 where we could leave it for any length of time. The factory DD seminars were very clear about top ring coking, low oil pressure, cracked liners, etc. than prolonged low speed idling can cause.

If we do have snow here and we can't get down the driveway, I have started up and moved it several feet and then shut right down. Another seminar tidbit that came up was that Ford moves all of it's new vehicles at least 4 feet every (can't remember, has been a long time) so many days to coat all moving parts in the rear axle, transmission, etc. and keep rust away. So this plus the tires sitting in one spot is why I violate the 20 mile rule occasionally.

Good point though. I should have included a little more info but hate to sound too preachy.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #5 –
I viewed some threads in other forums regarding the best surface on which to park. My favorite answer so far has been, "Montana in the summer, and Arizona in the winter."
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #6 –
Yet again an add-on to my post.

Modern oils have additives to combat the effects of condensation and other forms of abuse thrown at them. I count on them to mitigate my occasional indiscretions.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #7 –
Pierce,

 
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –
With the 600 rpm idle speed, I don't like to go off and leave it running for any length of time. With the mechanical Detroits, we had a fast idle switch that brought the rpm up to 1000 where we could leave it for any length of time.
The cruise control on my coach has the ability to control engine rpm with the transmission in neutral.  I didn't learn about that until some time after purchase.  Don't know if your coach has that feature.
Jerry Whiteaker former owner 96 U270  36' #4831 Austin,TX-Owner Mods LCD TV w/front cabinet rebuild - LCD TV bedroom - Dual Central AC, either can cool coach w 30 amp - Skylights at roof AC openings - Drop ceiling for ducting of AC - Shower skylight white gelcoat/wood/epoxy frame - Air Springs/Shocks replaced - 2014 CRV - 8K Home Solar - Chevy Volt

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #8 –
New one on me Jerry. Will check mine out tomorrow. Thanks.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Jerry Whiteaker –
Pierce,

 
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –
With the 600 rpm idle speed, I don't like to go off and leave it running for any length of time. With the mechanical Detroits, we had a fast idle switch that brought the rpm up to 1000 where we could leave it for any length of time.
The cruise control on my coach has the ability to control engine rpm with the transmission in neutral.  I didn't learn about that until some time after purchase.  Don't know if your coach has that feature.

Nope. Tried it this morning but it just looked at me. Would have been nice.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #10 –
My throttle is air actuated and I have to build air pressure before it works to get a fast idle.  Also it sometimes takes several attempts before the RPM comes up.  Mine works with the cruise control on and the set/accel switch.  I have been able to idle it as high as 2000 RPM.
John Cooper
'91 GV 36'
Oshkosh chassis
Cat 3208T 300HP

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #11 –
Quote from: John Cooper –
My throttle is air actuated and I have to build air pressure before it works to get a fast idle.  Also it sometimes takes several attempts before the RPM comes up.  Mine works with the cruise control on and the set/accel switch.  I have been able to idle it as high as 2000 RPM.

John,

A glimmer of hope. I checked it without building air. Will try again. Would also be nice after climbing a long grade to make a pit stop or take photos while the engine is at fast idle to bring down all temps.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: In storage tire protection question

Reply #12 –
Quote from: John Cooper –
My throttle is air actuated and I have to build air pressure before it works to get a fast idle.  ...

We have an air throttle in the 1997 U295. It appears that the cruise control uses mechanical control in the engine compartment. It is independent of the air throttle and works fine even when air pressure is down. If the coach has been sitting long enough for the air pressure to be low, I start then engine, wait a few seconds for oil pressure to build, then engage the cruise control to bring the engine to about 1000 rpm to build air pressure and warm the fluids a bit.
J D Stevens
1997 U295 CAI 36' Build #5085
2002 Subaru Outback
Motorcade 16869
Bellville, TX