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Topic: For all you boaters - Question (Read 872 times) previous topic - next topic

For all you boaters - Question

We have a teak foormat we use at the coach door and would like to seal it.    Any thoughts on products?  I've been out on west marine and there is a bunch listed.  I also have some teak chairs that I would like to either seal it or varnish it. 

thanks. 
Tom & Bill

2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #1
I have used Sikkens' Cetol available at many marine supply stores including West Marine.  Kept my teak stored in the sunlight spiffy year round.  Top coated once per year and spotted any scuff during the year.

Lightly sand surface to a smooth even appearance and coat the bare wood with several coats.  Leaves a satin durable finish.

If scuffed, just spot coat the scuff or the whole surface as needed.
Rudy Legett
2003 U320 4010 ISM 450 hp
2001 U320 4220 ISM 450 hp
1995 U320 M11 400 hp
1990 Granvilla 300 hp 3208T
Aqua Hot Service Houston and Southeast Texas

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #2
Best finish-- varnish. Satin or gloss, your preference.

OK if not left out in the sun too much-- oil.

I don't care for the look of Cetol-- looks too much like a stain (which it is).
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #3
Any suggestions on what varnish to use?  I will look at both to see which I like better!
Tom & Bill

2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #4
Any suggestions on what varnish to use?  I will look at both to see which I like better!

Mostly a preference in looks. We have used Captain's Varnish on several boats.

Don't know how complex the piece is-- if lots of small areas that would be hard to reach with a brush, varnish may not be practical.  By chance to you have a photo or link to the piece?

Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #5
Ours was 41" with lots of teak above and below. Used urethane, gloss above, satin below. It lasts longer than regular spar varnish and once you get the hang of it, you can make the rails look like glass. Satin with a little sanding prep makes below decks look like new. Used gloss urethane sprayed on cabin sole. Just pulled them out, sanded, sprayed, sanded, sprayed. Repeated this process about 8 times and they looked like glass. No shoes below decks afterwards.

Not familiar with Sikkens marine products. Sikkens does make the best automotive paint along with their unadvertised Lesonal brand in my opinion. Also the most expensive.

Has been years so not sure about which urethane I would select now. When you find the right one, you will know it. The more sun it sees the faster it deteriorates. Best to lightly sand and recoat before gloss loss is noticeable.

If you don't want as much constant upkeep, just use oil on the teak. Looks good to me but if selling, the urethane varnish is the ticket.
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #6
Every boater with teak on his/her boat has his/her own ideas about how to finish the teak. Some like varnish, some like products like Sikkens, some use tung oil. We didn't use anything. We washed the teak periodically and lightly scrubbed it with a soft brush but we liked the look of unfinished teak beached by the sun and salt water. Of course, we didn't have much of it (bulwark rails, handles, salon skylight, forward hatch and companion way trim.

Some boaters try to have zero teak trim to reduce or eliminate the chore of keeping teak up.

If you do nothing to it at all it will bleach out (a little like a cedar beach cabin) but still look nice. And will withstand wear.

I advise you not to use the commercial teak cleaners because they tend to dissolve the soft parts of the wood grain and leave the harder parts; this results in wood that you can feel the grain ridges with your fingers and eventually destroys the wood.

I use tung oil on my wood (Greenland style cedar) paddles and would recommend it for teak as well if you must have that "golden teak" look.

As always, ymmv and opinions vary too. :)

Craig
1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #7
I like a two part varnish.  It's harder to get a mirror finish with it, but it lasts over five years in saltwater service.
Regards,
Brett

'99 42' Foretravel Xtreme
'14 Brown Motorsports Stacker
'05 Chevy SSR
'02 BMW R1150R

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #8
We use the Cetol Marine Natural Teak by Sikkens. Holds up well in the Michigan weather. Last time we did it was 08. Will need to redo next season.
Dick & Sue
'99 U320, 36'
2015 F150 4x4 Supercrew
M & G with brakeaway system
Blue Ox Avail 10,000# tow bar
Grosse Ile, Mi.

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #9
Dick,

So, what boat do you have?

We have done most of our sailing on a Pacific Seacraft Crealock 37' (Pacific Seacraft : PS 37)-- can you say WAY TOO MUCH experience varnishing exterior teak.

Now we are partners with my brother in a Catalina 350.  Took it from Texas to the Bahamas last winter.

Brett
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: For all you boaters - Question

Reply #10
As the owner of 3 commercial vessels and a Bertram sport fisherman here is what you should do.

If you varnish the teak eventually it will start to peel off and it will be a bitch to remove the rest and re-varnish it.

I clean my teak with Whitsleys whitewall cleaner and a  very fine brass grill brush flushing it with fresh water several times.  This removes all the old oils and once it is dry it looks like a brand new piece of teak. Then oil with any good quality teak oil several times a year.

It will only cost you in supplies about $10.00 and can be re-cleaned every year with ease.
Don