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Topic: Broken wheel stud removal tool (Read 990 times) previous topic - next topic

Broken wheel stud removal tool

A Foretravel tech made his own broken wheel stud removal tool.

I can't remember exactly how it was contstructed. 

The 'tool' presses against the back of the stud and the brake rotor.
By turning an adjustment, the tool expands pushing against the rotor and the stud, pushing the stud out.

The rotor needs protection to prevent scaring from the tool.

Re: Broken wheel stud removal tool

Reply #1 –
Barry & Cindy,

Was that Wayne at FOT?
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Broken wheel stud removal tool

Reply #2 –
John,

No, it was not Wayne Musser. One of the guys in the main shop and he used it many years ago when a stud broke off doing slide pin cleaning.

I had to drive to Kelly's Truck Parts to get a replacement stud. Fronts and back wheels are different and left and right are different.  We have Budd Stud Piloted wheels.

After we broke two bolts, I took it on myself to put anti-seize lubricant on each bolt, then wiped it off leaving a small coating. I am aware that it is harder to get correct wheel nut torque and it is not recommended to put anti-seize on the threads for safety reasons. But I just did not to see wheel nuts corroded & frozen to studs again. I did the anti-seize thing years ago and on several wheel removals since then, there was no problem with wheel nuts.

Re: Broken wheel stud removal tool

Reply #3 –
I was thinkink about anti-sieze also. I think dry is preferred but on motor homes where seven years can go by between wheel removal frozen studs may show up. I guess you would use a different torque when lub is used.
These went on dry again.

I hope I don't have to take any off for the next seven years!
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'

Re: Broken wheel stud removal tool

Reply #4 –
John glad to hear you got it done.

I change my own flats on my 18 wheeler haul truck and trailer and know from experience to NOT use antiseize on the studs, when I first got my air compressor that goes up to 175PSI and a 1" gun that puts out 750 to 1000 ft lbs of torque you don't add any lube to the studs because you may not be able to get them off without heating them up. It allows them to be torqued so tight that a beside the road tire fix their gun and or compressor may not have enough 'umph" to get them off. The only way road service or big truck tire stores recommend is that after several times of removing and replacing the nuts would be to put on new ones at the change. A lot of times dirt and grime accumulate and being fine thread the nuts through time become difficult to take off, if they are difficult to take off they will especially be putting back on.

Something I did learn that antacid meds make great antiseize compounds for bolts.

In Johns case I think he had a bad stud from it showing rust at the point where it broke. Its good that it broke when changing and not from everyday use of the MH on a trip.

I hope john and everybody here has a safe and joyous Holiday Season. Merry Christmas Kerry
Kerrybob
1995 U295
1997 F250 4dr

Re: Broken wheel stud removal tool

Reply #5 –
RE "I hope I don't have to take any off for the next seven years!"

John,

Wheel nuts come off every 2-3 years when tires have to be removed to clean air disk brake slide pins.

Re: Broken wheel stud removal tool

Reply #6 –
Barry & Cindy,

I never gave it a thought to clean the pins on the brake calibers, I haven't done that in nine years.  No problems, maybe I have been lucky.  I thought normal exercise do to use would wipe them off.  Is there something in the Foretravel or the Meritor manuals that I have missed?  Something else I don't look forward to doing! I guess it would help the frozen wheel stud problem.  If I ever get the wheel off I will clean those pins!
This could be a good survey subject, how many operators do or do not clean the pins at some interval on the brakes?
John Duld
1995 U320C SE 40'