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Topic: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT (Read 8951 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #60 –
Wow. You effort is much appreciated by an ex shipfitter and welder :)

Now, that I see how you do this all I need is a welder, someplace to do it, about $10,000 more in tools, a couple of lifts....  never mind -  I couldn't do that!

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #61 –
Thanks Guys! Brett, I briefly considered a transparent cover.... not for vanities sake, just so you could see if there was any moisture and rust creeping back in. Unfortuantely, all such material that I know of is somewhat brittle, and there for not suitable. If there was such a material one could use for the bottom skin, structural function not widthstanding, it would be a sure way to know what was going on down there!
Don

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #62 –
Hi Don,
  I agree with Brett. That work is just to nice to cover. Thanks for letting us follow along.
Raymond

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #63 –
Quote from: acousticart –
Thanks Guys! Brett, I briefly considered a transparent cover.... not for vanities sake, just so you could see if there was any moisture and rust creeping back in. Unfortuantely, all such material that I know of is somewhat brittle, and there for not suitable. If there was such a material one could use for the bottom skin, structural function not widthstanding, it would be a sure way to know what was going on down there!
Don
Don,
All it takes is lots of money.  I'm sure there are automotive aftermarket companies that bullet-proof cars (mostly Suburbans, Rolls Royce, Cadillac and the like) that utilize advanced materials you can see through that can withstand the rigors.

Oh Yeah! 

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #64 –
Quote from: acousticart –
Thanks Guys! Brett, I briefly considered a transparent cover.... not for vanities sake, just so you could see if there was any moisture and rust creeping back in. Unfortuantely, all such material that I know of is somewhat brittle, and there for not suitable. If there was such a material one could use for the bottom skin, structural function not widthstanding, it would be a sure way to know what was going on down there!

You mean Transparent Aluminum?

Star Trek really IS a good guide to the future... Scientists now able to produce

Live long and prosper, Don!

Michelle

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #65 –
What about inspection plates such as are on airplanes?  Well at least 40 years or so ago when I was a student pilot.  From other posts that might not be necessary, as the bulkhead issue does not seem to be universal, as many owners have never experienced problems.

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #66 –
I agree, no reason to ever have to go back and inspect the bulkhead UNLESS he decide to let a water leak in the wet bay go unchecked for a long time or drive it through salt and then park it for months at a time.  Since he will not do those kind of things, the only reason I hate to see him cover it up is the work of art he is creating.

Very rare to see bulkhead failure without long-term causes, and then they fail one bolt at a time.  Just not a big deal unless just totally ignored.

Brett

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #67 –
You could just drill a 3/4" inch hole between the existing bolts and then use a digital inspection camera probe to take a look inside. They are available stand alone or probes that plug into a USB port on a Mac or PC laptop. They have 7 to 10MM diameter heads with LEDs so they supply their own light for the job. See at: inspection camera digital | eBay 

Not all will work on all three computer operating systems so check the fine print before ordering. Mine only cost $50 delivered and plugs into my Mac laptop.

Naturally, you would want to have a plug for the hole. I almost have my service pit done so will be installing a new set of Hollo-Bolts between the OEM bolts. Will photo the job and post in the next couple of months.

Pierce

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #68 –
Transparent Aluminum, that's the ticket! So far, I haven't been able to source transparent aluminum in large enough sheets, but I will keep looking... LOL! Seriously though, I am not worried about it because I know that I will be vigilant about water leaks and moisture intrusion of any kind. Every penetration into the framework will be be sealed and all seams caulked with the best materials available. And then there is a fact that all the steel down there, including the sheet metal bulkhead will be coated with Por-15. The idea that it would be nice to put a transparent skin over it  was just one of many that I briefly considered and discarded as I stared down at the exposed rusty metal in front of me, too tired after a long day of working to move and start putting everything away...
Pierce, I do have an inspection Camera and found it very useful when I was trying to route the washer drain pan tubing down alongside the water heater...
Don

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #69 –
Don, great work and I was just wondering if you have considered using cold galvanizing paint for the steel coating or a 2 part commercial epoxy paint that is used for bridge construction?
John H

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #70 –
Nope, not familiar with those... Anyway, I have already invested a fair amount of money in the Por-15 product line. I feel confident that it will do the job as well as it can be done. I did a few test pieces and it has performed well being left out in the rain and elements over the course of a few months.
Don
Quote from: John Haygarth –
Don, great work and I was just wondering if you have considered using cold galvanizing paint for the steel coating or a 2 part commercial epoxy paint that is used for bridge construction?
John H

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #71 –
Don's work is extensive and meticulous but what sorts of options are there for those of us who have some rust (and maybe a little scale) but not enough to warrant a complete rebuild? There are some products (mostly with tannin) that claim to "convert" rust and are paintable; I used one on a wheelchair lift before my knee surgery and it seemed to be very effective. I simply wire-brushed the rusty spots, applied the "converter" which served as a primer when dry and then painted the entire assembly with black rustoleum.

I have planned to do the same thing with the steel support structure around the generator on the U225. It's rusty with some scale but nothing that looks serious enough to require re-welding. Even though I'd re-weld it at the drop of a hat if I thought it was necessary; mostly because I love to weld... especially with my new auto-darkening helmet and the wire-feed. ;D

Anyone have any alternative suggestions?

Craig

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #72 –
Craig,

Those auto darkening helmets are great aren't they? How can you go wrong for $50 or less?

Would suggest drilling a hole in any suspect tubing and injecting several ounces of boiled linseed oil in each large rectangular/square tube, less in the small ones. It will climb up the walls and coat all interior surfaces. Stay away from the new synthetics as they don't work as well in the real world as their claims would have you believe.

Pierce

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #73 –
I added boiled linseed oil to some tubing and it does wick its way around... However, I would do any welding you want to do first, or it can create a bit of excitement! Don't ask me how I know that ;D
Don
Quote from: Pierce & Gaylie Stewart –
Craig,

Those auto darkening helmets are great aren't they? How can you go wrong for $50 or less?

Would suggest drilling a hole in any suspect tubing and injecting several ounces of boiled linseed oil in each large rectangular/square tube, less in the small ones. It will climb up the walls and coat all interior surfaces. Stay away from the new synthetics as they don't work as well in the real world as their claims would have you believe.

Pierce

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #74 –
Quote from: acousticart –
I added boiled linseed oil to some tubing and it does wick its way around... However, I would do any welding you want to do first, or it can create a bit of excitement! Don't ask me how I know that ;D

Don... I scared the cat by bursting out laughing at your comment. LOL. I'll keep it in mind.

Pierce... yes those helmets are great. One of my problems stick welding was that by the time I got my helmet down my hand had jerked and moved. The auto-dark feature makes it a piece of cake. And they look sooooooo cool!!!

I think that, unless someone comes up with a super idea, I'll stick with the "brush scale off, hit with the coverter and paint" method that worked for me before.

I have to find something to weld on though... now. :P

Craig

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #75 –
A couple of pics... fabricated some of the aluminum shelves with Angle Iron supports welded to the framing. The 3/16"X1.5" angle iron, along with the gussets, also beefs up the slightly thinned out original frame members creating a very strong rectangle. That will run from one edge go the utility compartment (front to back on both street side and curb side) to the other when it is finished ::)

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #76 –
Hmmm.  I'd rethink screwing that aluminum directly to steel, would insulate it somehow.  If you do, don't make the mistake of using stainless screws, galvanized is far less reactive.  Personally, I would tape it down with VHB or bed it in a caulk type adhesive with no fasteners.  Years of owning an alloy fab shop, building alloy boats, things like this give me pause.  That said, it's not a huge deal and you've really done a fine job of reconstruction. 

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #77 –
Thanks for the compliment Chuck...
I have given it some thought and research... while I wouldn't want to do this in a boat or marine environment, I don't believe that in my application it will be an issue in the life span of our Foretravel. A couple of points, the aluminum and the steel are both 3/16" thick, will be coated with Por-15 and the threads with Loctite (These plates are not designed to be easily removable).  Acouple of the aluminum plates are warped in one direction (I got them in the remanants pile: :D ), so I don't think the tape is a viable option for those. One thing I know, I am going to war against water intrusion into this area! Also, compared to the plywood sponges that were in this area before the rebuild, the aluminum plates will be less destructive to the steel framework. Another point that I mentioned previously in this thread is that Foretravel frequently joins Aluminum to steel in the coach, i.e., the auminum eztrusion that forms the sill along the bottom. Not to mention the aluminum superstructure joined to the steel side wall framing, and certainly even the Alcoa wheels held to the steel hubs by steel studs and nuts. One other small point, I will have rigid styrofoam insulation below the aluminum plates that should provide a bit more R-Value than the 1.5" of plywood previously there.
I am contemplating using a continuos sheet of 18gage stainless steel sheet in place of the FRP on the bottom of the compartment, or perhaps a much thinner gage (say 24) over FRP. I notice that many of the newer Foretravels and other hi-line coaches using stainless in that area these days... bad idea? I don't know if they are using FRP under the stainless, but I suspect so, and that the Stainless Steel is just a thin decoritive finish... well still a ways to go, back to work!

Quote from: Chuck Pearson –
Hmmm.  I'd rethink screwing that aluminum directly to steel, would insulate it somehow.  If you do, don't make the mistake of using stainless screws, galvanized is far less reactive.  Personally, I would tape it down with VHB or bed it in a caulk type adhesive with no fasteners.  Years of owning an alloy fab shop, building alloy boats, things like this give me pause.  That said, it's not a huge deal and you've really done a fine job of reconstruction.

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #78 –
Don, et.al.,
Thank you all for a very informational and inspirational thread.  I enjoy following this.  I just hope I don't need this information.  But I now feel compelled to do a really careful inspection.

Re: Chassis construction photos from Don and welding on your FT

Reply #79 –
Your welcome! I hope your inspection reveals nothing but a sound bulkhead joint... Sorry for the delay in my reply, I guess I missed this post somehow.
Don
Quote from: Bob Thomas –
Don, et.al.,
Thank you all for a very informational and inspirational thread.  I enjoy following this.  I just hope I don't need this information.  But I now feel compelled to do a really careful inspection.