Alternator rebuild

Topic: Alternator rebuild (Read 1881 times) previous topic - next topic

Alternator rebuild

August 17, 2012, 05:21:04 am

I would like to get my Hehr 25-5 190 amp alternator rebuilt.
I have had no luck finding a rebuilder I feel comfortable with in the Chicago area.

Has any body had a good experience with a re-builder, and what is there name and location.

Thanks.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #1 – August 17, 2012, 06:00:18 am

If in the Houston area: Pearland Alternator. 1221 N. Main (35 1 mi s of beltway

800 966-6672. 281 485-8871

If not, call Hehr Corp in Ft Worth and ask for the name of an authorized rebuilder in your area.

Brett

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #2 – August 17, 2012, 06:50:11 am

Our business has had a lot of experience with starter / alternator rebuild shops over the past 40 years, for us, a little shop in Orange Va is by far the best & most reliable rebuilder for the past 20+ years, UPS your alternator and you will get it back 100% like new, not painted.

Also, if you need a 12 Volt DC Motor rebuilt or replaced, he is the place to make you happy.

Mike's Starter & Alternator (540) 672-6300

FWIW
Dave M

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #3 – August 17, 2012, 07:33:57 am

I used a local rebuilder here in Orlando. Told them I needed an adjustable regulator. No problem. All the local dealers and commercial truck repair shops use them. Ask around who places send their alternators to...

Most of these places don't look pretty but their work is the best...

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #4 – August 17, 2012, 06:27:18 pm

I called mikes in VA and left a message I also called Pearland in TX.
Pearland said he could rebuild for $198 but suggested that I upgrade to a different brand that had better cooling for $310. I didn't get the name of the upgraded unit.

Are you framilar with a upgraded unit ?
Worth it or stick with who
Brought me to the dance?

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #5 – August 17, 2012, 07:46:05 pm

Most likely a Leece-Neville (Prestolite)
Foretravel went to the a year or two after our coach was built. I like my Hehr. Its been a good unit. One rebuild in 17 years?

Heavy duty Leece Neville truck and bus alternators

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #6 – August 17, 2012, 08:50:39 pm

I had numerous problems with the Hehr alternator in my 92. Changed to a Leece Neville and never toughed it again.

I had a 95 like yours, it had a Leece Neville when I traded it at 220k miles but can't remember if it came on the coach or I put in on.

You can get a new Leece Neville in the $400 - $500 range.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #7 – August 21, 2012, 07:37:27 pm

I talked to both suggested rebuilders. hehr seems to be out of business or close to it. It was recommended that a rebuild was not practical.
I called Foretravel and was told to replace the Hehr with the Leece 2824LC 160amp unit.
I located a new unit on EBay for about $300.
This model is made for a RV with isolator. It requires a wire run from ignition to alternator.
The model I bought is called a Duvac, I'm not sure what Duvac means, seems just a longer + terminal. I will verify this with Prestolite tommarow.

Foretravel suggested I tap off the remote start for the additional wire run to the alternator, has anybody done this or is there a better source to run the wire from?

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #8 – August 21, 2012, 07:41:23 pm

Finding a "hot only when ignition on" in the engine compartment is very easy.

Turn ignition on and find 12+ VDC between a suspected "hot only when ignition on" and ground. Turn off key. If that location is now 0 VDC you have one you can use. The alternator takes very little power, so virtually any source that fits these perimeters is OK.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #9 – August 22, 2012, 08:20:35 am

Quote from: Lon and Cheryl – August 21, 2012, 07:37:27 pm

...I located a new unit on EBay for about $300.

Can you let us know if that is a genuine Leece Neevile or a domestic/import knock-off. The e-bay site says part brand is WAI.
thank you

LEECE-NEVILLE NEW ALTERNATOR A0012824LC DUVAC | eBay

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #10 – August 22, 2012, 10:56:09 am

Quote from: Rick – August 22, 2012, 08:20:35 am

Can you let us know if that is a genuine Leece Neevile or a domestic/import knock-off. The e-bay site says part brand is WAI.
thank you

WAI Global. they were founded by Richard Wetherill with 34 employees in 1978. Appears to have started in the U.S. but does not actually say that. They appear to be both manufacturer and distributor. They are international today. Their corporate headquarters are in both Exton, PA and Fort Lauderdale, FL
WAIglobal WAIglobal Company History .

But that doesn't say who made the alternator or where it was built.

Troubleshooting a Prestolite - Leece Neville

On line training manual: http://www.prestolite.com/literature/training/PP1127_TrainingManual_lores.pdf

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #11 – August 22, 2012, 12:46:22 pm

The Leece-Neville (or Hehr) 4-wire alternators really do need those 4 wires and not just a jumper between the ignition source (+12volts with key on) and the sense post.

The reason is that the ignition source is through the isolator which drops the voltage 0.6vdc. If this is applied to the "sense" post on the alternator the voltage regulator (unless it is re-adjusted) will think that the battery bank is lower than it should be and work harder to charge it (higher charging voltage). The alternator working harder back in the hot engine compartment (especially in summer weather) can reduce its life.

Most rebuild shops assume the alternator is for a truck and that the sense and ignition will be the same and so they just install the jumper.

My Hehr was rebuilt last summer (for $200) in just this way and needed another rebuild last spring. That second rebuild also came back with the jumper between the sense and the ignition. I removed that jumper and ran a wire from the remote engine start ON/OFF switch terminal that is connected to the start battery +12vdc.

This gives the voltage regulator the actual start battery voltage.

Craig

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #12 – August 22, 2012, 03:49:33 pm

I found out the hard way that the jumper on a truck alternator creates a loop defeating the isolator. It will be as if the boost switch is on all the time. If you can't see a 12V with ignition on source near the alternator...look carefully. I found a wire sticking out through a plastic conduit that had electrical tape on it. I exposed the wire and sure enough it was 12V when the ignition was on. Whoever worked on it didn't know what to do with the extra wire so he just cut it off and taped it up. Thankfully he was as lazy as ill-informed about isolator equipped rigs and left the wire protruding from the plastic conduit.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #13 – August 25, 2012, 04:41:31 am

The new alternator arrived today.
You were correct in noticing that the alternator is NOT a Leese-Neville unit ( completely flew by me) but is made by WPS. It is new manufacture, and appears to be of good quality, but I'm disappointed that the seller represented the unit as a LEESE unit and suggested that the model number was a Leese number.
The Leese unit 2824 was the model Foretravel recommended to me to replace the Hehr unit. The 2824 was supposed to be made for a RV with a isolator. The WPS unit seems to be a replacement for a Leese 2500 series.
The WPS 7613N cross references to a Leese, but not the model number Foretravel gave me. The Leese unit was advertised as 14V the WPS is advertised as 12V. Both are rated at 160amps.

I stumble my way through electrical problems and I'm now on a crash course to learn about the alternator applications when a isolator is present.

I would feel MUCH more confident if this had actually been the exact model Foretravel recommended. I'm suffering through a EBAY buyer beware self scolding now and until I see this alternator working properly.

I think this unit will work, unless somebody with a better understanding tells me different, and please speak up if you know. I believe that if I run the 12v wire from a source off the ignition switch to the second small terminal on the voltage regulator ( the old Hehr alternator had a small jumper wire at this position, the new WPS has no visible jumper wire) that this is the correct wiring for a isolator equipped RV.

So in summary,
1. I have a + large post
2. a small post that excepts the 6v wire -
3. the next small post that takes the ignition 12v new wire run
4. then a - large post.

Do you think this is correct, or should I pack this unit up and send it back?
If it works at least it has a 1 year warranty.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #14 – August 25, 2012, 07:47:46 am

No question about it, if it was me I'd send it back. Get the genuine article. Here's how I went about replacing my alternator and it works like a champ.

Alternator alternatives

Chuck

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #15 – August 25, 2012, 09:16:57 am

Quote from: Lon and Cheryl – August 25, 2012, 04:41:31 am

The new alternator arrived today.
You were correct in noticing that the alternator is NOT a Leese-Neville unit ( completely flew by me) but is made by WPS. It is new manufacture, and appears to be of good quality, but I'm disappointed that the seller represented the unit as a LEESE unit and suggested that the model number was a Leese number.
The Leese unit 2824 was the model Foretravel recommended to me to replace the Hehr unit. The 2824 was supposed to be made for a RV with a isolator. The WPS unit seems to be a replacement for a Leese 2500 series.
The WPS 7613N cross references to a Leese, but not the model number Foretravel gave me. The Leese unit was advertised as 14V the WPS is advertised as 12V. Both are rated at 160amps.

I stumble my way through electrical problems and I'm now on a crash course to learn about the alternator applications when a isolator is present.

I would feel MUCH more confident if this had actually been the exact model Foretravel recommended. I'm suffering through a EBAY buyer beware self scolding now and until I see this alternator working properly.

I think this unit will work, unless somebody with a better understanding tells me different, and please speak up if you know. I believe that if I run the 12v wire from a source off the ignition switch to the second small terminal on the voltage regulator ( the old Hehr alternator had a small jumper wire at this position, the new WPS has no visible jumper wire) that this is the correct wiring for a isolator equipped RV.

So in summary,
1. I have a + large post
2. a small post that excepts the 6v wire -
3. the next small post that takes the ignition 12v new wire run
4. then a - large post.

Do you think this is correct, or should I pack this unit up and send it back?
If it works at least it has a 1 year warranty.

Lon,
Sorry to have brought that to your attention but we're looking out for you. The e-bay sellers ad is somewhat deceptive and if you are doing the work yourself that unit will probably work fine but if you want the genuine article you should certainly contact the seller and see if would take it back without the restocking fee (due to the misleading ad topic and part number and for your favorable ebay feedback), but you would be out the shipping.
Good luck,
Rick

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #16 – August 27, 2012, 06:28:35 pm

I decided to put the new alternator on, and see how it worked.

I'm right back to where I was before the replacement. I have a voltage reading of about 12v at the dash gauge, a little higher on the monitor and no increase with engine rpm. The voltage drops slightly when I use the boost switch. The engine batteries checked out at 12.7v (3 Optima) with the engine off.

I get no voltage at the + alternator terminal with engine on or off. I get 12v on the next small terminal over when the engine is running. I get just under 12v at the DUVAC terminal (connected to the remote start button) when key is on 0v when key is off.
I get no output when I go +alternator post and - alternator post at a high idle.

HELP!

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #17 – August 28, 2012, 07:24:51 am

Your alternator is not working.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #18 – August 29, 2012, 08:38:26 pm

I re-checked everything today. I believe I have found the problem.
The 12v source I used (the remote start button) was not supplying a full 12v.
When I jumped from a battery idolater terminal ( 12.5v) to the alternator it put out 14.6V at the alternator. All gauges read almost 13v.

I think I may have the wrong idea when it comes to drawing the 12v for the DUVAC terminal on the alternator. I thought it had to be a source that was active ONLY when the ignition key was turned. When I read the instruction sheet for the alternator it only states that it be a line from the + starting battery terminal straight to the DUVAC post on the alternator.
I thought that a straight continues 12v feed without shut-off would eventually drain the battery's.

What would your recommendation be, a switched 12v source, or a direct 12V source.

Thanks for your help!

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #19 – August 29, 2012, 09:54:22 pm

The 12 volt duvac wire should have 12 volt + continous and the ignition terminal should be the switched 12 volt +

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #20 – August 29, 2012, 10:51:44 pm

Wire direct from battery through a low amp fuse to measure start BATTERY voltage.

Other small wire is ignition switched to TURN ON alternator.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #21 – August 30, 2012, 12:03:09 am

Thanks!
I will do it Thursday. Sure makes it a lot easier running direct from the start batteries.
Hopefully I can then move on to the NEXT project (s).

I'm sure it will never end!

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #22 – August 30, 2012, 07:38:48 pm

Everything I believe is working now.
I ran a direct line from the start batteries to the DUVAC post.
I now get 15.25v at the alternator and 14.25 and 14.35 at the isolator and about the same at the start batteries and the coach batteries .

I still have to wire in the fuse from the start batteries to the DUVAC post.
What size fuse would you suggest I install?

Thanks for all your help!

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #23 – August 31, 2012, 02:28:16 am

Maybe one half amp fuse on alternator battery voltage sense wire. I think the alternator draws less than 1/2 amp, but if fuse blows increase amp rating.

I just learned from a Foretravel tech expert that one can run the ignition excite wire from start battery through a relay that has it turn-on-coil powered from an ignition source.

This will put voltage to alternator excite when ignition key is on but remove the power to the excite when ignition is off, thus eliminating any possible battery drain.

They say ignition voltage is available at remote start panel.

I never heard of this, but it sounds like a good idea.

Re: Alternator rebuild

Reply #24 – August 31, 2012, 08:30:25 am

Barry,

With the extremely small amp draw and only when the ignition is on, I think a relay is an unnecessary complexity for the sense wire.

Great idea for heavy loads or runs where voltage drop would be a problem such as toad battery charge wires.

Brett

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