Step repair on a U320

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Step repair on a U320

August 31, 2012, 07:41:24 pm

The step on my U320 is scraping against the frame when it closes. It creates a small bind when opening or closing and just started 2 days ago. What I want to find out if this is a fix that one could do on their own or do I need a pro?

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #1 – August 31, 2012, 07:59:39 pm

My problem turned out to be leveling issue.

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #2 – August 31, 2012, 08:05:30 pm

The step seems to be in good condition, the question is why is it suddenly making contact with the frame. Something must have shifted position. Fixing it might be easy or difficult depending on what happened. Did anything happen like contact with the road crossing a dip, curb, etc? Try looking underneath with a light and mirror for broken, bent, or rusted metal. Is the piano hinge still properly attached on both sides? Rust or dirt under the hinge might be pushing it up on the end that is making contact with the frame. Has the door frame or something behind it dropped down? About all I can think of. Your step looks a lot better than mine which is quite rusty in spots.

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #3 – August 31, 2012, 08:11:32 pm

if it is really a step issue and easily could be this you can do with no problem.
My suggestion is to look at the hinge at the back (long piano type) and see if it is bent up at the left hand side/or the screws are loose etc. They are Tork type (on mine) and pop rivited into step. Check all the area out for things like that and you will most probably see what is the cause.
There is one other thing that can do this and that is if the metal frame inside the step has a tendercy to rust up real bad and then you can get the same problem as there is not much clearance between frame and step. I have had mine totally apart and removed a ton of rust then rust proofd it and painted frame then replaced the fibreglass part and caulked all around well. I also drilled 4 small drain holes in metal and fibreglass so that when the step is up any moisture drains out. I strongly suggest everyone with this style to take apart and do what I suggest. You will be amazed at the mess of rust inside as this causes the panel to bulge out.
John

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #4 – August 31, 2012, 08:14:56 pm

I am with Jerry on that one, something pushed the left part upward, I am sure it did not just do it because it was Wednesday, Something hit it. I am sure you could bend it back down a little to clear the rubbing area. A port-a-power comes to mind.
Dave M

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #5 – August 31, 2012, 10:00:23 pm

Steve, post a picture of the fibreglass step part right were the scrape is in the picture. Take it looking down on the step(step down position) so you see the edge, please. I want to see that area
John H

and maybe one of the hinge left side

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #6 – September 01, 2012, 03:41:11 am

I just repaired the step on my 295. It had just started doing the same thing. The bond between the fiberglass cover and the inner frame of the step had let go at it's top edge. I removed the step, removed the cover from it's frame, cleaned and painted frame,and reinstalled cover using silastic adhesive. gam

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #7 – September 01, 2012, 08:03:09 am

Quote from: John Haygarth – August 31, 2012, 10:00:23 pm

Steve, post a picture of the fibreglass step part right were the scrape is in the picture. Take it looking down on the step(step down position) so you see the edge, please. I want to see that area and maybe one of the hinge left side. John H

Looks like the fiberglass is braking apart under the step frame. Can't see where anything is bent and the hinge is tight.

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #8 – September 01, 2012, 08:49:54 am

Just replaced the complete steel plate, ordered from FT, built to factory specs from original drawings. Drilled appropriate size holes then had the plate POWDER COATED. Make sure factory includes stainless steel rivits and you should have a very sturdy rivit gun when you install the hinge from the old plate. Also drilled smaller holes around edge to attach fiberglass cover with alum rivits and drilled additional holes along bottom of cover for drains. Also replaced rubber bumpers, found at home depot, exact match. jc

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #9 – September 01, 2012, 09:28:52 am

First step inside the coach is pressure treated wood - on my 1999 and 2000 I had MOT replace due to rotting, when I had this condition I had a similar issue with that door hitting the frame. Not Foretravel's finest design. I replaced the pressure treated plywood in my 2000 with 3/4" "Starboard" a marine material - wont ever rot out.

This trip to NAC for the annual maintenance, I think I am going to see my friend James at Xtreme and let him install the step conversion. It is kind of like plastic surgery. One year headlights, another year the roof painted, next was the rear tailights (which I LOVE) and now the step. Sort of the "Phyllis Diller" approach to owning a motorhome, a nip hear, a tuck there......

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #10 – September 01, 2012, 09:50:47 am

Quote from: Tim Fiedler – September 01, 2012, 09:28:52 am

This trip to NAC for the annual maintenance, I think I am going to see my friend James at Xtreme and let him install the step conversion. It is kind of like plastic surgery. One year headlights, another year the roof painted, next was the rear tailights (which I LOVE) and now the step. Sort of the "Phyllis Diller" approach to owning a motorhome, a nip hear, a tuck there......

HA! No kidding. The step conversation is about $2,500 right? I'll probably just fix what I got

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #11 – September 01, 2012, 02:05:01 pm

Steve, ok now with the pics of the underside of door frame/step it is the first step in not the drop down one. Looks like you have to replace that wood/foam/ fibreglass panel to fix it. Not a big deal I would imagine, as I have not done it (not needed on our unit) but would rip it all off and rebuild. Most probably cost will be minimal but a few hours labour. Check the top (over door) rain sill as it may be allowing water to run down side of door and if you do not have that vinyl cover on steps sealed at sides that is were the water is getting in to rot wood. Simple annual inspectionwill save many problems
John H

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #12 – September 04, 2012, 06:28:39 am

Quote from: John Haygarth – August 31, 2012, 08:11:32 pm

if it is really a step issue and easily could be this you can do with no problem.
My suggestion is to look at the hinge at the back (long piano type) and see if it is bent up at the left hand side/or the screws are loose etc. They are Tork type (on mine) and pop rivited into step. Check all the area out for things like that and you will most probably see what is the cause.
There is one other thing that can do this and that is if the metal frame inside the step has a tendercy to rust up real bad and then you can get the same problem as there is not much clearance between frame and step. I have had mine totally apart and removed a ton of rust then rust proofd it and painted frame then replaced the fibreglass part and caulked all around well. I also drilled 4 small drain holes in metal and fibreglass so that when the step is up any moisture drains out. I strongly suggest everyone with this style to take apart and do what I suggest. You will be amazed at the mess of rust inside as this causes the panel to bulge out.
John

I had to do the same thing to mine as well.

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #13 – September 09, 2012, 03:07:31 pm

"I have had mine totally apart and removed a ton of rust then rust proofed it and painted frame then replaced the fibreglass part and caulked all around well."

Before I take a hammer to the bottom step for a rip-out to replace it, can anyone give me a little hint on how to take it out? Is it screwed in? Is the wood/fiberglass step riveted in? Do I hammer it out? Don't want to have to destroy anything I don't have to

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #14 – September 09, 2012, 03:38:02 pm

are you talking about the air operated step or the lower step in doorway?
The mechanical/air step is taken off by removing the screws and disconnecting the cylinder rods. The fbreglass cover is held on by a hard caulking around the outer perimeter and be carefull but you should be able to get a small pry around the edge to ease it away from metal frame. The rest is pretty obvious, scrape, grind all rust off and coat with OSpho rust repellant and paint, then replca with caulking and let sit overnight. I would put some drain holes in it as I explained.
If it is the other step, I have not had to do this but it looks like all you do is cut that apart and I think the panel is sitting in a metal angle frame so it is a case of replace with some weather resistant/treated wood and seal then put on a vinyl topping and seal again. I would then spray underseal all over the exposed underside.
John h

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #15 – September 09, 2012, 03:44:37 pm

Quote from: John Haygarth – September 09, 2012, 03:38:02 pm

are you talking about the air operated step or the lower step in doorway?
John h

Thanks John! I am talking about the lower step in the doorway. The flip up step is fine - it's just hitting against that 1st interior step because of sagging after 12 years

Sounds like a fairly simple repair that I can do. Weee.

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #16 – September 09, 2012, 06:40:43 pm

look at it this way, 12 yrs on the road would make anyone sag, and it gives you a chance to build a better bonding with the coach!!
John H

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #17 – September 09, 2012, 06:52:03 pm

Steve,
I'm not sure the contruction is the same between the years but I throw this out:
Under the plywood there is a piece of sheetmetal (painted black) that you might need to replace. I'm thinking it's bulging down due to the plywood rot.
It's hard to describe - here's a diagram:

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #18 – September 09, 2012, 07:34:44 pm

Quote from: JohnFitz – September 09, 2012, 06:52:03 pm

Steve,
I'm not sure the contruction is the same between the years but I throw this out:
Under the plywood there is a piece of sheetmetal (painted black) that you might need to replace. I'm thinking it's bulging down due to the plywood rot.
It's hard to describe - here's a diagram:

Thanks!

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #19 – September 15, 2012, 12:51:37 pm

I'm in the middle of trying to replace the 1st step up into the RV on my U320. As you can see, the wood has rotted out. What has me puzzled is I can't figure out ( without using a big hammer!) how the front piece of metal framing can be removed. It would be similiar to a threshold on a home door. I removed the 3 screws from the front of it, and scored the sealant away from the ends. Does this piece come off by itself? I also found out there is a piece of sheetmetal UNDER the wood that will need to be replaced as well. I'm trying to avoid having to pay a body shop to fix this if it's something I can do. I would drive to Extreme Graphics to get the conversion if it wasn't 1000 miles from me. That's $1,000 in fuel just for the trip

Another look at the diagram and it looks like I should break the sealant that's between the sheetmetal under the plywood and the door frame. I'll try that tomorrow

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #20 – September 15, 2012, 02:52:25 pm

I would also drill a few drainage holes in that metal 'pan" then coat it all with rubber spray before putting in the new wood (treated) as it above the step box no water should migrate in but will allow the wood to dry out. Do not forget to caulk all around the vinyl top layer after re building, and bottom frame of door too.
John

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #21 – September 15, 2012, 08:09:44 pm

Steve,
I'm not sure it's the same as mine but that bottom piece of metal (aluminum on my coach) is part of the door frame and consists of 4 piece welded together on the corners. The weld is only visible on the backside after it's removed. I had to remove the door and the door frame. Then there are the flat head torx screws (I think size 25) holding the plywood to the steel frame tubing. The torx heads should be half way visible under the door frame. There will also be fasteners (I think glue and construction staples) that hold the bottom piece of plywood on the other 3 plywood sides. For reconstruction I would think you should be able to use "L" brackets on the exterior that can grip clean sections of plywood to the new bottom step piece to support it. The bottom piece of sheetmetal is something you can easily make (as I did) with roof flashing and spray painting it gloss black. It's very thin metal and easy to cut with tin snips. The original installation of the sheetmetal had contact adhesive to the bottom of the plywood and wrapped around the edge with staples. The sheetmetal covered the bottom and ran up each side to where it meets the deck of the coach floor. The door frame covers the edge with staples.

The job I did on my coach was not a rotted step but a total replacement I did for my wife who didn't like the tall 2 steps and wanted the shorter 3 steps (which became standard on later years). So I didn't replace just the bottom step as you are attempting. I have never heard of rotting steps on unihomes. Since unihome steps are completely inside the basement I think the rotting on the Unicoaches is from wheel well splash - something you might want to weatherproof in the future.

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #22 – September 15, 2012, 08:54:05 pm

If I may add it also can be from leakage around the door as on ours I did notice some water migrating into and behind the door so I caulked all around the frame and lower step (inside) as I mentioned before for you to do after job is complete. Check also the above door rain trough below light as mine was allowing water to run down right side of door thru weatherproofing. Look at it closely and you may see what I mean. Since caulking mine is dry inside all the time. I am convinced this is what causes the rot.
Steve why not cut the bottom of the door frame with a hack saw to follow the bevel cuts in frame, that way you do not have to take out door frame. This is what I would do as it is not going anywhere and if you use a very strong construction glue on all pieces you are replacing you will be fine IMHO. Remeber to spray undercoating on everything you put back too.
John H

Re: Step repair on a U320

Reply #23 – September 16, 2012, 02:48:48 am

We had our bottom step get spongy, and had FOT repair it while we were in Nac. In retrospect, I would do it myself, but I didn't know if taking the step framework apart was going to be required. Foretravel techs chiseled the rotted plywood out, leaving the metal underside in place and then slipped a new piece of plywood in. They added an aluminum angle for reinforcement to bond to the riser. Getting the right clearance for the moving step was somewhat fiddly. The techs that worked on it were the ones that built it originally in 98!

An important take-away from talking to the techs there was that the bottom step is what they called a "wet step" so it must be totally sealed or water running down under the door or on the step (open with screen door closed) will wet the plywood and eventually rot it. They painted lots of sealant on the metal and the wood before buttoning it it up, but I think adding drain holes in the bottom to let the plywood dry out would be a good idea.

BTW - total cost for bottom step repair at FOT - $550

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