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Damaged battery cable

November 13, 2012, 03:57:03 pm

While crawling under my coach yesterday to grease the universal joints and drive shaft, I found that the air hose to the driver's side tag axle brake had vibrated against a positive battery cable, wearing a hole in the hose and exposing about two inches of copper wire on the cable.

Simple solution-pull the cable and hose and replace them, right?  After Unbolting the cable, I started cutting plastic ties so I could separate the cable from the bundle and find the other end.  I was doing fine until the cable make a sharp left turn and headed for the front of the coach!  Darn!  Now it's a much bigger problem.  Is there a safe way to repair the cable that will let me get to FT for a proper repair?  Are they going to have to replace the mile of cable, or is there a correct way of replacing only the last two feet?

For now I'll move on to removing the air hose, once it stops raining.  Maybe that side of the job will go more smoothly.

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Re: Damaged battery cable

Reply #1 – November 13, 2012, 04:08:54 pm

Go to a good electrical supply house or marine store and get the correct insulated butt connector with internal adhesive/sealant.  The people there will know what to give you.  It will be waterproof and mechanically strong enough for a permanent repair.  Know the wire gauge before you go.  Cut the bad section and install the splice.  No need to replace more cable, just the bad 2".

A temporary fix if you want a quick and dirty fix is to use plenty of self amalgamating tape over the exposed copper.  The brand ""Rescue Tape" comes to mind.

Rescue Tape - World's #1 Brand of Silicone Tape!

Keith

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Reply #2 – November 13, 2012, 05:02:02 pm

Here's what I would do....go to an electrical supply house and buy you a roll of Scotch 33 electrical tape.  Not the hardware store "stuff."  If I recall correctly, it's good for 600 volts per wrap.  Carefully tape it up leaving no bubbles, wrinkles or voids, extend well past each end of damaged area onto solid insulation.  If you feel the need for further abrasion resistance you can then wrap the repair with good old friction tape - yes, it's still used in the  industrial electrical environment, bringing it up level with the original insulation. Follow the friction tape wrap with another layer of 33.  If you're still not happy then you can slip some split plastic loom over the repair.  If you're still concerned at that point then coat the entire repair with some 3M liquid electrical dip. 

There's absolutely no need to replace the whole run, the very thought brings tears to my eyes. The conductor is fine, don't cut, splice, just repair the insulation over it as described.  Priced copper cable lately?

Chuck

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Reply #3 – November 13, 2012, 10:12:01 pm

Priced copper cable lately?

I just paid almost $5 a foot for single 0 battery cable to hook up my inverter. If I am not mistaken the battery cables on my coach are three 0. Pricier.

Roland

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Reply #4 – November 13, 2012, 10:45:47 pm

If you have disconnected the end of the cable at the wear area the best repair may be a piece of shrink tubing . Radio Shack has it with an thermoplastic adhesive liner for a permanent waterproof repair. Sizes up to 1 1/2" diameter for $6.50. Gam

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Reply #5 – November 14, 2012, 12:10:37 pm

4/0 cable which I will be using to change the battery connections while in Mexico I priced here is $9.50 cdn a foot. I have 12 ft of it my Brother was able to get me 4/0 welding cable thru his company for a lot less. Welding cable is a lot more flexible due to its finer strands.
John H

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Reply #6 – November 15, 2012, 01:42:58 pm

My solution is to go to walmart. In the automotive or rv section get some liquid tape. Coat the area where the insulation is damage. Let it dry and do it again. Then go and take electric tape and do a few raps around the damage area. Make sure it is clear of the air hose and forget about it.

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Reply #7 – November 16, 2012, 11:58:55 am

We are looking at two things here.  1.  Repair of the insulation.  Several solutions are given above.  I like the self amalgamating tape or the shrink tube solution IF it is the adhesive core kind.  If the copper conductor is damage see below.

The non splice method only applies IF the copper conductor is intact.  If not the current carrying capacity of the conductor is reduced and if a load close to the conductors upper limit is applied the cable will heat up where it is thinnest.

Make sure that corrosion has not got into the cable as it will wick along the strands and give you a problem on the future.

Keith

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Reply #8 – November 17, 2012, 09:07:26 pm

Tape over the bare wire with electrical tape enough to keep additional water, salt, etc.. off of the wires.  Purchase a couple of feet of heater hose of the correct size and put it over the affected area.  Secure it with Nyties and drive to wherever you want to get it fixed. It is low voltage so no risk and should not be worn enough to cause you any operational problem.  Not a big deal.  IMHO.
Regards,

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Reply #9 – November 17, 2012, 10:20:47 pm

Brett,


Too bad these folks don't know where you really are!  Walmart? Electrical Supply store?  SURE, no problem!!!  I'm assuming you are still on the west side of nowhere?


I'm sure all the answers you got are right on (at least that's what I would do if I were in the same predicament—sorry to say I'm not and really do miss my coach.  Still have not been able to find who it was sold to though.  Safe travels!

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Reply #10 – November 18, 2012, 07:29:10 am

I went with two coats of liquid tape, then four layers of 3M 33 tape, followed by 4 layers of 3M 88 tape, then plastic-tied a length of split plastic loom.  I consider it a permanent repair unless or until I notice any problem with generator starting.

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