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Topic: hitch clamp, (Read 1502 times) previous topic - next topic

hitch clamp,

Here is a hitch clamp easily made with 3/8 steel plate and 4 holes, a 1/4 x 1 x 2 spacer for behind the receiver (can be welded or JB welded on) reinforcement bar, and some 3/8" u-bolts. It works great to stop the tow bar from being beat around in the receiver.
Good luck,
Rick

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #1 –
Great idea!  Maybe reuse a top plate (and U-bolts) from an old leaf spring (or find new replacements on line)?  Probably a small leaf spring, though.

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #3 –
Much too easy.  Could probably save $3 or $4 using spring parts... :))

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #6 –

These only cost about $25 from Amazon. 

Amazon.com: StowAway Hitch Tightener: Automotive

We put on this summer and it seems to work like a charm.  It provides just a bit more peace of mind. 

George

As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #7 –
well liked that idea so this afternoon got some metal and bolts from my junk pile and 1 hr later I have one too. Now painted and on the hitch. Thanks George for the mention of it.
John H

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #8 –
Quote from: John Haygarth –
well liked that idea so this afternoon got some metal and bolts from my junk pile and 1 hr later I have one too. Now painted and on the hitch. Thanks George for the mention of it.
John H
                        Nicely done John. Is that a piece of rebar welded on the edge? I see you also welded the bolt heads so you only need one wrench. Good thinking.

            Dean

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #9 –
For sure this is another feel good thing, but in reality, it would take a very serious clamping to prevent some movement IF you have a heavy binding trailer hooked up.
Me being cheap, let it rattle if needed, I can not hear it anyway  ;D
Besides, just another contraption to break, work loose and fall off, and damage a tire on trailer/toad.  :o

Dave M

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #10 –
Dave, ye of little faith!!
Those stainless 1/2" bolts with nyloc nuts and lock washers aint goin nowhere!!!
This is one secure baby or I would not do it. It is amazing how much the pin and hole wears because of movement and this is a new hitch ball and tube as the other one got so sloppy.

Dean, yes I used rebar as I could not do the bend as in the one the George  mentions on ebay. The piece of rebar worked out great for giving a good clamp effect. It is tight, and yes I thought about doing it with bolts so only one good 3/4" box end wrench gives lots of torque.
John H

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #11 –
Hi John, The only wear item I find is the pins that connect the hitch to the toad, after about 20k miles they have wear ridges, so I now use the ones with the key lock, they do not show wear yet.
I am just against adding something in an area that does not really need it.
Smile
Dave M

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #12 –
Fair comment.
as you say, do what ever makes you warm and fuzzy!!!
John H

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #13 –
We experienced a "failure" of our locking hitch pin this summer.  I began hearing a "tinny" noise and Jeff saw the tow car take off sideways in the rear camera!  The "tinny" noise was the stinger of the tow bar dragging on the ground after it came loose from the receiver on the motor home.  Bent the arm on our 10K Roadmaster tow bar. Cables held, and Jeff had sense enough to lightly apply the coach brakes, which engaged the brakes on the car (Air Force 1 system). We were on a downgrade, so the car gently came to rest against the rear bumper of the motor home.  Good golly.  No damage to the car at all. Messed up our mud flap a bit, and the tow bar was a total loss.  We found the locking end of the hitch pin resting on the bumper of the car, pin itself was missing!  Lock must have bounced up from the road.  I have ordered a hitch clamp.  The hitch pin did not break, it just was knocked around enough that the lock popped off the end. 

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #14 –
We had a similar experience.

My youngest son was driving, we were headed to a wedding out in NY, NY. (Stayed at Liberty Harbor RV park BTW). We heard some noises and saw the Element trying to pass us on the left hand side - same drill, was on a slight downgrade, slowed to a stop off on the shoulder of the interstate and Element came to rest against the rear of coach, no damage to either coach or Element. Roadmaster 10K as well, locking pin had been installed incorrectly into horizontal pin securing Roadmaster arm to the front plate on Element. The locking pin must have jumped out of the horizontal pin, and the horizontal pin eventually worked out, allowing the arm attached to the left front of Element to loose and fell down dragging on the pavement, second arm on right front still connected to toad. Unhooked, went to nearest tractor supply (via maps function on iPhone), got some parts and hooked back up.

Right Front Roadmaster connecting arm arm was slightly bent and left front was damaged from scraping pavement on end that attaches to car so sent to Roadmaster when we returned from trip and they fixed/replaced parts as needed for about $220.

Turns out the keeper pins I have been using have two ways to insert, one way the round ring is in "capture" mode and poin can't come out, the other way the pin is not "captured" and can bounce out. Added checking those pins for proper insertion after I hook up toad to my check list.

Re: hitch clamp,

Reply #15 –
I had a hitch pin back out on a swivel wheel trailer on the back of our fifth wheel. I could feel the fiver rocking a bit but I thought it was the wind. After a while the factory "welds" on the safety chain loops tore off and the swivel wheel trailer with our Honda VTX motorcycle parted company with the fifth wheel. Some damage to the swivel wheel trailer but as it stayed upright and on the road, no damage to the bike. My solution at the time was to weld the thing on the fiver. The hitch clamp is a much better solution.

Roland