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Topic: Entry step (Read 1106 times) previous topic - next topic

Entry step

Our first step is separating from the frame at the back of the step and it also fells a little squishy.  Waters seems to get in from the door when it rains.  How do we replace just the first step and is the same material available? We have a 1999 U320.  Thanks for any help on this.  Art
Art Golfis

Re: Entry step

Reply #1 –
I was recently tearing into my step to replace the cylinders, so maybe my observations will help.  I think my 2002 step is designed the same. 
1. The two air cylinders hold the step and the entire weight of the person.  I learned that when I removed both cylinder connections...as the step goes all the way down to the ground.  The hinge is just a hinge, and does not provide support for the step.

2. Each cylinder is mounted with a 2-piece bracket to hold the back of the cylinder, a total of 4 bolts on the back of each cylinder.  (There are C-clips to remove the pins that actually connect the air cylinder to the brackets.  One of mine was so rusty that I had to remove the 4 bolts to get it out.   

3. The brackets bolt through fiberglas (which may be your "squishiness" as it flexes?) and on the back, there is one approximately 2" by 1" reinforcement metal plate for each cylinder (will have 4 nuts on each...easy to see).  5/16" bolt heads, 3/8" nuts You will need a helper unless you have ape arms.

If my step was feeling squishy, I would replace those two 2" by 1" metal support plates with a single plate that was approximately 2"- 3" by 14" across the back of the fiberglas...drilled so that the total of 8 bolts would go through the single plate and provide a much more solid support, spread out further on the fiberglas wall. 
The selected media item is not currently available.Brad & Christine Slaughter
Was:  1990 U280 36'
Was:  2002 U270 36' (With a bathroom door) Build #5981
Is:  2021 Leisure Travel Van Wonder 24RL
2015 Jeep JKU, 2003 S10 QC 4x4 or 2017 C-Max
Lake Havasu City, AZ (or Gillette, WY)

Re: Entry step

Reply #2 –
And as far as water goes...  Not a lot you can do about that.  I wish they would have designed it so that you could leave the step up when in storage, but they didn't.
The selected media item is not currently available.Brad & Christine Slaughter
Was:  1990 U280 36'
Was:  2002 U270 36' (With a bathroom door) Build #5981
Is:  2021 Leisure Travel Van Wonder 24RL
2015 Jeep JKU, 2003 S10 QC 4x4 or 2017 C-Max
Lake Havasu City, AZ (or Gillette, WY)

Re: Entry step

Reply #3 –
There have been a number of posts on this issue recently.

I just replaced my entry step as water had gotten under the non-skid and rotted the plywood underneath. The horizontal step was rotted as was the first part of the riser so I had to replace both. I removed the vinyl to expose the rotted plywood. The step is screwed into a box beam beneath the step, screwed to the riser, screwed to the threshold, stapled from the plywood sides and screwed to a vertical piece at the back. Underneath the plywood is some thin metal sheeting. I found the sheeting corroded through in a few spots. Below the sheeting is the fiberglass box with the drop down door pistons with some insulation on top.

I found it easier to get at everything from underneath so I removed the fiberglass box, cut our the metal sheet and then the horizontal step and riser. I replaced the riser with exterior plywood coated in epoxy and the step with a piece of HDPE. Underneath the HDPE I added a new piece of 3/4" plywood that rests on a piece of angle iron attached to the box beam and then screwed to the riser, the HDPE,  and other pieces of the step assembly. Finally I sprayed the bottom with undercoating and reinstalled the vinyl non-skid.

The non-skid joints should be sealed to prevent water from seeping underneath in the future.

Since I had the entry door seal replaced a year ago, I have not seen any water on the entry step.

I have attached a couple of pictures to show some of the structure.

Bob

Re: Entry step

Reply #4 –
Well...ignore my post if it is the first step inside the coach...I thought it was the air-door step he was talking about.  Re-reading it, I probably missed the question.  Sorry. 
The selected media item is not currently available.Brad & Christine Slaughter
Was:  1990 U280 36'
Was:  2002 U270 36' (With a bathroom door) Build #5981
Is:  2021 Leisure Travel Van Wonder 24RL
2015 Jeep JKU, 2003 S10 QC 4x4 or 2017 C-Max
Lake Havasu City, AZ (or Gillette, WY)

Re: Entry step

Reply #5 –
After rereading the Art's post I think maybe I misread it. ::)

Re: Entry step

Reply #6 –
Attached is a word document showing how I rebuilt my step.  I also have a 1999 U320.  It was a lot of work but I tend to over think things and make things more work.  Hope this is what you are looking for and it helps give you a little direction.  It was an all day project.

Good luck
Jason
Jason
1999 U320 36'

Re: Entry step

Reply #7 –
I had the same issue of a rotted step inside....very spongy/ but my coach came from the wetlands of the NW..known for lot's of rain.  I removed the surface-a brownish rubbery material- carefully and dug out the rotted plywood one night, while I had nothing to do at the FOT campsite in January.  Then, after realizing I was '(had to slap myself!- on the road', just did a temporary fix with help of a friend to cover the plywood, then added the project to the Foretravel work list in Nacogdoches.
Yup, paid the fiddler.  Job done.  Water did come in high on the doors, so some device needs to be installed up there to keep water from doing more damage. Still a trickle, so not perfect yet.
Coach Build # 5862/40'/2001/U320/Motorcader 17136

Re: Entry step

Reply #8 –
A temporary fix for "squishy" steps that are not directly exposed to the outside is expoxy. One product, called "Gluvit" is made to penetrate spongy wood. Once it does penetrate and harden the wood is pretty strong again. I have used this product many times on docks and decks which I then covered or painted. Once I bought a house that turned out to have a lot of rot below the shower (where someone had botched the remodel). I sistered up some floor joists and coated everything well with Gluvit after digging out the seriously rotted bits. Lasted for the next 15 years 'til we sold the place.

Gluvit, like most epoxies, does not tolerate ultra-violet exposure so you have to either use it on interior pieces or paint it or cover it up somehow.

Craig
1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."

Re: Entry step

Reply #9 –
Quote
Hope this is what you are looking for and it helps give you a little direction. 
Nice job on that step, Jason and thanks for documenting your work.
jor
93 225
95 300
97 270
99 320

Re: Entry step

Reply #10 –
Jor:
Thanks for looking and your kind words. 
Jason
Jason
1999 U320 36'