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Topic: Dash solenoid removal (Read 922 times) previous topic - next topic

Dash solenoid removal

After a couple of replacements I finally got sick of the dash solenoid being intermittent and replaced it with a manual switch located under the dash. Also serves as an anti theft switch.
Blue Sea 6006
m-Series Mini On-Off Battery Switch with Knob - Black - Blue Sea Systems

I ran two 4 ga wires from the original solenoid position on the pass side kick panel.
Rick

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #1 –
Rick, After ten years of use I have yet to have a problem with the DASH solenoid.  If it is failing there has to be a reason.  I take it you plan to turn the SWITCH off each time you shut off the coach from the ignition.  What happens when you fail to turn it off ?
Gary B

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #2 –
A high quality (and still automatic) ignition solenoid: L Solenoid - 12/24V DC 250A - Blue Sea Systems

Rated at l Million switching cycles and 450 amps CONTINUOUS rating.  'nuff said.

Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Gary Bouland –
Rick, After ten years of use I have yet to have a problem with the DASH solenoid.  If it is failing there has to be a reason.  I take it you plan to turn the SWITCH off each time you shut off the coach from the ignition.  What happens when you fail to turn it off ?
Gary B
Gary,
I have replaced and dissected more than my fair share of these in aircraft. In aircraft the problem is generally water intrusion that causes a couple of different problems that are not happening here. In the coach, the contacts are just carboning up and the carbon is insulating the contacts so they don't connect. Taking the solenoid apart and using an eraser on the contact plate will bring the assembly back to working condition. I did not reinstall the cleaned up unit but put another new one in and it carboned up again within 6 months. There was no pitting of the plate or contacts. I believe there is residual oil from the manufacturing process that is burning off and starting the insulating process. Once cleaned they may not ever be a problem again. I too had no problem for 4 years. One day the coach shut down while going down the road. (others have had this experience too) That was it for me. I had this in the back of my mind anyway so just did it. It is wired so that you must turn off the aux switch to shut the engine down. Another benefit of the manual switch is no current draw. Those things also get very hot too. These manual switches provide a swiping action to contacts that aid in keeping the contacts clean, the direct straight line action of solenoids tend to pit and degrade the contact surfaces. Maybe I got a couple of bad ones. Cole Hersey has also changed the contact material and maybe that would make a difference.
From the Cole Hersey web site.
part no. 24213. "This part number replaces #24143.
24123 had silver contacts; the replacement 24213 has superior silver tungsten carbide contacts, and is electrically identical."

pics are of the latest one that failed to maintain reliable contact.



Rick

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #4 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
A high quality (and still automatic) ignition solenoid: L Solenoid - 12/24V DC 250A - Blue Sea Systems

Rated at l Million switching cycles and 450 amps CONTINUOUS rating.  'nuff said.


Brett,
I'm aware of that solenoid but felt the manual switch solution was best for me. When it comes time to deal with a crapping out isolator, my solution will be a manual Blue Sea switch.
Best regards,
Rick

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #5 –
My question would be WHY does it carbon up / fail in six months, while it does not seem to be a big issue for others. ? 
Sounds like there maybe  more load across the contacts than it is rated for ?

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #6 –
I wanted to post the operating temp earlier but could not access Cole Hersey's tech sheet. They are spec'd to operate up to 185* F and they run at the upper end. I remember measuring one after installing and operating and it was close to the limit. I believe they were getting repeated complaints about intermittent contact because they have now changed to a different material for the contacts. I feel the manual switch is a good way to get rid of some amperage draw and a very hot component.
Good luck,
Rick

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #7 –
I've had good success with the solenoid that I got from FT parts dep't.  Wouldn't say that it will last for the rest of the coach life, so I will keep the manual switch idea in mind as well as a backup plan that I have and that is to use 2 solenoids.  My thought is to break out certain loads for each solenoid so that I would know which one was acting strange, and try to divide up the load evenly, which may be a little hard to do.  Thanks and have a great day  ----  Fritz
Fritz & Kathy Johnson
1991 36'

Re: Dash solenoid removal

Reply #8 –
Pictures as requested of kick panel side wiring. Wires tied together with cut down brass (not brass plated) toilet bolts. I'm pretty sure that it is 4 gage wire going over to the switch.
Rick