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Topic: Entry door lock  (Read 1423 times) previous topic - next topic

Entry door lock

Last night key fob would not lock / unlock entry door ( bay doors fine ) then I started to hear a clicking sound , traced it to the " entry door unlock " relay behind the passenger side dash . Cycled 40 mile round trip to get a new one , only to find new one is making same noise and still not operating entry lock .
Any advice welcome .
This come on top of my generator problem and a flooded home in boulder !
Help

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #1 –
Blessings to you and your famly

. May tomarrow be better than today!

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #2 –
I just had to repair my electric doorlock over the summer.  But I could hear it "whirr" in the door.  There is a connector in there, perhaps it it loose?  It is a pain to take apart the nside of the door to get at the actuator, but it reallty isn't too hard.  Even the inner window frame screws need to be removed.

If you discover the plastic gear is broke, the advice I was given here worked:  A small screw to replace the elevated edge. 

Sorry to hear about you having a house in the flood area.  Sad stuff.

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Jimmyjnr –
Last night key fob would not lock / unlock entry door ( bay doors fine ) then I started to hear a clicking sound , traced it to the " entry door unlock " relay behind the passenger side dash . Cycled 40 mile round trip to get a new one , only to find new one is making same noise and still not operating entry lock .
Any advice welcome .
This come on top of my generator problem and a flooded home in boulder !
Help

Jimmy,
Sometimes the wire in the door jam to the door lock breaks.
Here is a couple of threads that may help you.
New ultraflexible wire to entry door lock actuator
Entry door lock actuator (split from What did you do to your coach)

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #4 –
Had an issue, door was unlocked, but would not unlatch so my DW stepped  thru the driver window and opened the door. One reason I NEVER lock that window.

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #5 –
Thanks guys going to start tracing wires this morning , we left home 19 days ago and so far
Dead house battery's ( now replaced)
Deflated sleep number bed ( temp fix)
Generator fault ( awaiting call back)
Entry door lock ( trace wiring )
Gas water heater stopped working
Water pump went from noisy to bag of hammers
Air leak on leveling system
Last three happened last night
Home in boulder flooded

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #6 –
Since we have "sister" coaches, maybe some of my experiences will help.

Regarding the water heater, there is a thermal fuse that is easy to find and replace.  Could be the problem.  Our gas water heater quit working at Quartzsite one year and thanks to Kent Speers' diagnosis, I was able to fix it quickly.  He even had a replacement fuse!  Now I carry a spare. 

Regarding the air leak, have you changed the filter on the air dryer recently?  As noted on this forum they can lead to a host of problems if they get too old and leak the desiccant into system.  I am now changing mine every year.  If you did get it done, make sure they use the supplied grease on the rubber gasket.  They didn't use it when I had it changed in Nac in 2012.

I had a generator fault last year.  It turned out that the coolant level was low.  So when I went down (or up... not sure which) a hill, the coolant moved around in the system and the sensor went dry.  Adding some additional coolant fixed the problem. 

Sorry to hear about your house!  We live in Tucson next to an arroyo and we're buying flood insurance when we get back!  These once in 100, 500 or 1000 year events are getting too frequent!

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #7 –
George
Just spoke to Atwood and they came up with same fault , trying to locate one now
 
Barry
Stripped shorting wires in door jamb , now fixed , no clicking relay , but no locking entry door , suspect it may have burnt out the actuator
 
Power tech in leesburgh just said no fault lights on gen set then it's a Foretravel problem , Foretravel think it could be fuel filter / supply problem ?
 
Heading to shop now to try find air leak issue

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #8 –
Heading into shop tomorrow morning for air leak , located diode for water heater also morning , now trying to find fuel filter for generator , should it be primed with fuel before fitting ? 

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #9 –
No, don't prime the fuel filter.  There should be a vent at the filter(it looks like a bolt head) that you loosen slightly.  Un-clamp the inlet line and wait for fuel to start seeping from vent.  Close the vent and start the gen.  Look for any leaks.

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #10 –
Brett
I can see vent bolt on top of mounting plate , not sure which one is the inlet and why would I loosen that . I thought that open vent and cranking would prime filter then close vent and try to start unit ?

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #11 –
George
After repairing wires in door jamb ( flexible wire later) the relay stopped clicking but no sound from door actuator , nothing trying to move ?

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #12 –
I didn't have that problem.  When the actuator went bad, it just go noisy.  It never did quit.  Can the relay be reset?  Are the bay locks working?  All the actuators are on the same circuit.

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #13 –
Bay locks working , think the entry door has a seperate circuit , going to put anothe call into Foretravel after I find primary filter for generator , change that and deal with both problems with one call

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #14 –
Quote from: George Hatfield –

Regarding the air leak, have you changed the filter on the air dryer recently?  As noted on this forum they can lead to a host of problems if they get too old and leak the desiccant into system.  I am now changing mine every year.  If you did get it done, make sure they use the supplied grease on the rubber gasket.  They didn't use it when I had it changed in Nac in 2012.
George
Fitted new diode and we now have hot water , shop has found split line to air tank , now trying to find replacement .
Thanks again to everyone for the help

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #15 –
Quote from: Jimmyjnr –
Fitted new diode and we now have hot water
The little device for the water heater looks like a diode, but is a thermal fuse. They are used on water heaters, electric irons, instant hot water devices, hair dryers, coffee makers, etc. They will open up at a rated temperature. They are relatively easy to replace and are available from places that repair the various appliances in which they are used.

If the fuse fails repeatedly, there is a problem with the appliance. After three fuses failed in short order in an Atwood propane water heater on our previous coach, we had it checked at an RV repair center in Billings, MT. Daubers had built nests in the flue/heat exchanger. The nests restricted air flow causing too much heat to come back out the combustion air intake area. The heat opened the fuse to protect the system from causing a fire. After they flushed the dauber nests out with liberal amounts of water, the heater worked properly and "fried" no more thermal fuses.

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #16 –
When the thermal fuse died in mine five years ago, I dove into the manuals and used Google to figure out the problem. I saw nothing that could have caused the failure other than a manufacturing fault or old age with the fuse, so I ran without the fuse to have hot water in the morning, but only running the water heater when I could keep an eye on it.

I found the cheapest price on eBay, bought a three-pack with the same temperature setting, replaced the bad fuse, and haven't had to use the spares. But....if they die every five years, I will be using one of the spares pretty soon now.

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #17 –
My only mechanical issue with the door lock was due to the latch tripper getting bent (?), wound up bending the tripper / latch lever and no more issues.

Otherwise during the paint process, the door was removed, the lock wiring harness got cut off with dykes/ side cutters, that shorted everything, smoked most of it, requiring a new control and 1 electro latch, glad it was handled by the paint out fit, Xtreme is very honorable too, James does the correct thing, 100%.

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #18 –
Dave
When I found cables damaged in door jamb I suspected that they may have been shorting out . As mentioned earlier I repaired wires and replaced relay , now no feed to door latch .
Looking into the area behind passenger dash I found a " delay door latch " unit attached to two more relays ( very hot ) and two inline fuses , not original just dangling behind air ducts , very sloppy .
I pulled both relays for safety and now bay doors stopped responding , think this may be job for Rv tech

Re: Entry door lock

Reply #19 –
Jimmy,
In my 2001 320, there was originally a bundle of about  a dozen small wires that also worked the keyless buttons on the door, they all got shorted was clear when viewedthe PCB.
I think later models used the 2 wire for lock solenoid and they used the RF door buttons.
THat is how the replacement is.