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gauges stopped working

October 21, 2013, 12:58:29 am

1994 GV U 240
hello everyone,
GeoffH ( brother of JohnH ) this is my intermittent problem from today.
Everything working on dashboard when leaving CG, realised that the turn signals were not working and also all gauges had no power. Pulled over when safe but left engine running in case I could not restart, I knew everything was fine until I used my turn signals so I moved the arm up & down, nothing changed until I moved the cruise control switch on the arm and I had the gauges  working again.
 Has anyone else ever had this problem?

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Re: gauges stopped working

Reply #1 – October 21, 2013, 10:31:28 am

When my gauges started to act up, occasionally I learned on the forum almost 3 years ago, that my main ignition solenoid was failing.  Brett Wolfe suggest an expensive Blue Sea replacement.  You might be lucky to just check and clean the attachments to the main two lugs, from the batteries and out to the coach items.

The solenoid is under your lift up dash, almost center in the mess of things screwed down to the wood shelf.  About 2" around, 3" tall, and has two large lugs for incoming 12 volt power, and outgoing 12 volt ignition switched power.  There are also two single wire small terminals going to your key.  The solenoid clicks when you turn the key, passing power from one side to the other.

I was loosing the tack, then later other things, like the dash air, finally the HWH jacks when we parked in the warehouse.  These can be gotten at any auto parts store, for less than the marine version that has higher ratings and duty cycles.

Surely more learned members will have other and maybe better ideas.

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Re: gauges stopped working

Reply #2 – October 21, 2013, 11:07:42 am

After checking all the lugs at the solenoid, you can jump the solenoid from the left hand supply side to the other big terminal on the other side. Check ground also. You should see a ground wire attached to one of the 2 solenoid attachment fasteners on the base. If in doubt, run a wire from the steering column ground to the body of the solenoid. The two big bolts that secure the steering column are excellent sources for a ground and are only about 3 inches from the ignition solenoid. With the key turned off, supplying power to the small solenoid terminal from the larger one on the left side should power up the right side where all the smaller wires are as well as making a clicking noise from inside the solenoid.

The latest update Cole-Hersee solenoids are about $50 but the expensive solid state models may not be any more expensive in the long run as they should last forever and should at their price. Disconnect engine batteries before replacing.

Pierce

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Reply #3 – October 21, 2013, 11:18:52 am

I had this problem on our 91 GV.  It took a little troubleshooting but I pinpointed it to the solenoid.  I replaced it with one from an auto parts store.  Some time later I started having the problem again.  In a discussion with the FT parts and service guys, they said that that solenoid is specially built for FT and if you use one from an auto parts store  it will surely fail.  This solenoid packs a very heavy load and needs to be heavy duty.  I installed one from FT parts and it has been solid since (4or5 years ago).  I thought about breaking it out and installing 2 solenoids to lighten the load on the one, but haven't needed to do that.  Have a great day  ----  Fritz

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Reply #4 – October 21, 2013, 11:39:56 am

No, Foretravel does not have a different solenoid than available online or at a auto parts store. Here is the exact conventional solenoid that should be used. The key here is the wording, "continuous duty" and "200 amps."  If the solenoid has two small terminals like the photo, a ground and the trigger 12V can be used in any order on the smaller terminals. Other Cole Hersee part numbers you may encounter are obsolete and have been replaced but still may be in stock at some stores. Insist on the 24213 as of this date.

Battery-Related Products | Battery Selector/Master Disconnect Switches24213 |  Example price at: Cole Hersee 24213 - 12V Continuous Duty Solenoid 200 amp

This solenoid is also used as the "boost" solenoid and is mounted close to the battery isolator. Never hurts to have a spare on board.

Pierce

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Re: gauges stopped working

Reply #5 – October 21, 2013, 11:44:48 am

Goeff,

Did the transmission shift pad go from a normal reading to "snake eyes"?
Did the dash HVAC fan quit working?

In other words, did all those things that only work with the ignition on quit at the same time, or only some of them?

If all, yes the ignition solenoid is the likely culprit.

I find it hard to believe that Foretravel has a unique solenoid.  Yes, the solenoid needs to be constant duty and of adequate capacity (amps). And the e-switch like this one are much more reliable, but more expensive: L Solenoid - 12/24V DC 250A - Blue Sea Systems

Brett

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Reply #6 – October 21, 2013, 08:22:26 pm

Well, all I can say is what the FT boys told me and sent me.  Wouldn't say that some other heavy duty one wouldn't last, but the bottom line is  "dont use the cheapy  from the corner parts store".  Have a great day  ----  Fritz

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Reply #7 – October 22, 2013, 12:35:20 am

Thanks everyone for all the feedback, what a great community!
To recap what I noticed when driving:
I had no voltage to any gauges but I had lights, clock, radio, monitor. I did not check HVAC air, but the shift pad was functioning correctly.
 I will see what make of solenoid is installed and go from there.
 I am not be able to look at the electrics until the weekend as I keep it offsite.
Thanks again,
Geoff

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Reply #8 – October 22, 2013, 08:29:21 am

Geoff,

If the ignition solenoid is failing, ALL those  things that work only with the ignition on will cease working.  The dash HVAC fan is a real good indicator, as you can hear it running/stopping.

Also worth tightening up the ground lug under the dash.  Never hurts to run an additional ground wire from instruments to the ground lug.

Brett

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Reply #9 – October 29, 2013, 10:28:38 pm

 Last weekend I had the time to check which type of solenoid was installed in my GV,  it is a Phillips 54-130, an intermittent, 80amp unit. There are quite a lot of connections either side, using a copper link bar, ( see attached photos ).
 I have ordered a Cole Hersee 24213 solenoid which I will pick up this weekend, my question is, do these solenoids usually have so many connections to them?
 I checked the price for this unit here in British Columbia, Canada and I was quoted $120+, I checked the price in Washington State ( I am 5 minutes from the Border and my price is $57+ so my local guy will not be getting a visit from me .
Thank you for your suggestions on this topic,
Geoff

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Reply #10 – October 30, 2013, 12:12:38 pm

Bumping up Geoffs question on number of wires coming to solenoid. Does anyone have any comments for him??
John H

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Reply #11 – October 30, 2013, 12:20:52 pm

That looks to be more wires than I had on my 93 U225.  What I caught was the post saying the one in the coach was only 80 amps and intermittent use.  I think the ones I used were 200 amp, and constant use.  Could you not split the loads onto two solenoids and have an easier time of making all the hookup?

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Reply #12 – October 30, 2013, 12:33:25 pm

Geoff, The number of  wires attached does not matter.  The AMP rating is and you are apparently replacing an 80 amp with a 200 amp so that will be way more capacity than what you have now.  I suspect that the many wires are attached were simply convenience. 
Gary B

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