Foretravel Owners' Forum For owners and Fans of Foretravel Motorcoaches September 10, 2025 ...

No heat

November 18, 2013, 11:32:29 am

I have a full propane tank, the valve on the tank is open, and a new rear furnace. When I turn the thermostat on and set it for a higher temperature than what the coach is now, the blower comes on, and after a minute or so I hear the furnace trying to ignite. After a couple of unsuccessful tries it shuts off. What am I missing?

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Re: No heat

Reply #1 – November 18, 2013, 11:37:41 am

I just tried the pilot light on the stove. Nothing.

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Reply #2 – November 18, 2013, 11:38:27 am

David, Check voltage at fan motor, low voltage will not spin fan fast enough to trip sail switch.
If You have not used furnace in a long while you may have to make several tries til pressure builds in line and gas gets to burner. Propane tends to settle with non use and til line fills burner will not lite.
David, I was writing when you posted.
If no gas at the stove top check cut off valve at tank, is it open ? Check solenoid at tank is it opening gas valve at tank/.  If your propane detector has not been modified you will probably find that when detector goes off flow of gas is cut at tank.  Take the solenoid valve apart and remove the pintle ( pin ). Or remove solenoid cut off valve completely, it is not requires or needed.
Call me if you are still having problems.

Gary B  770-595-

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Re: No heat

Reply #3 – November 18, 2013, 11:38:41 am

The furnace has a sail switch that detects airflow from the fan. Too little airflow and it won't open the gas valve, the igniter tries to light the burner, but with no gas it fails and shuts down. Low battery voltage, a stuck sail, or air passage restrictions can cause this.

 Over temp if it actually lights will also shut it down.

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Reply #4 – November 18, 2013, 11:42:27 am

Check if any propane appliance lights.

My 1988 sob had a sniffer activated propane shutoff solenoid, yours is close enough in age that it might have one too.

Give the stove burner more time to light, just in case the gas is slow getting there.

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Reply #5 – November 18, 2013, 11:49:40 am

David, Main clue may be NEW REAR FURNACE.  It will take a while for gas line to fill so keep trying to light it and you will probably be OK.  BE CAREFUL if you try this and do not do it near any flame source >>>>> Loosen the nut on the gas line a little at a time>>>> Do you smell gas ? If so then trouble shoot sail switch, voltage, sounds like igniter is working OK so I would concentrate on gas supply.
Gary B

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Reply #6 – November 18, 2013, 12:24:56 pm

Does the front furnace or refrigerator light?

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Reply #7 – November 18, 2013, 01:01:09 pm

Also, be aware that the tank levels and voltage on the TV monitor on the dashboard are probably wrong, at least they usually are on mine. The best way to check the propane tank level is to look at the little red needle in the clear circular window in the center of the propane tank. I didn't even realize it was there until the propane guy pointed it out to me. I was showing half a tank of propane on the TV monitor but the tank only had 1 gallon in it! ...This might not be your problem this time but sooner or later it probably will be.

If you stand right by the furnace as it tries to light do you smell gas coming out the exhaust for a moment? If so it's probably gonna be your ignitor / flame sensor rod assembly. Mine does the same thing and I was just about to order the parts for it. You may be able to fix it by removing and cleaning the ignitor and flame sensor. Check the spark gap and adjust it to 1/8" or whatever the manufacturer specifies.

If you have propane in your tank but no propane appliances work your gas detector's solenoid valve may be closed or you may have air in the lines that will purge itself eventually.

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Reply #8 – November 18, 2013, 02:05:29 pm

Switch your propane sniffer on. The solenoid will be closed unless it is on.

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Reply #9 – November 18, 2013, 02:22:56 pm

Just to the right of the sink is a sensor panel that, among other things, checks the propane. It has an on-off switch. That switch was off, so no propane. Switch on, propane to the furnaces. I'm not too concerned about the stove's pilot light right now. I have it off, and I think we could light the burners with a match of necessary. Anyway, at least now my tanks won't freeze.

On to the next issue!

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Reply #10 – November 18, 2013, 02:31:02 pm

The propane sensor has bitten me before. Was working on the batteries and had the negitives off which set off the propane sensor. Turned it off and went back to working on the batteries. Much later I notice stove and furnace not working. Took me a while to figure out I just had to turn sensor back on.

see ya
ken

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Reply #11 – November 18, 2013, 02:36:02 pm

While we're talking about that sensor, there is a sensor near the floor, directly under the panel I mentioned. That one is installed upside down, at least as far as the writing on it is concerned. Looks like it would be easy to turn it around, but I'm wondering if it is this way for a reason. Anyone know?

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Reply #12 – November 18, 2013, 09:09:59 pm

The sensor on the floor that Dave and Ken mentioned got me when I was first getting my funances running...Stove wouldn't light either....Sensor was turned off After I rectified that problem I found that my thermostat was bad. I doubt yours is a thermostat issue because your will at least turn on, mine wouldn't even run the fan. Good luck

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Reply #13 – November 18, 2013, 09:22:59 pm

Dave, I got bit by the sensor switch early on. When I looked in the "manual," one of the previous owners had written that to reset the sensor I needed to unplug the red wire on the LP/CO detector and then reconnect it. And sure enough it reset the sensor switch and I had a second green light on the detector and, best of all, I had LP!

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