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110v Receptacle Replacement

November 26, 2013, 11:50:23 am

I ordered some replacement receptacles for all of my 110v outlets (different color). They are type WDR, same as stock but I can't get the wires to punch into the slits. Pushed pretty hard with a screwdriver blade. The replacements are supposed to fit gauge 12 and 14 romex (Wirecon Type WDRDU) and I don't see any for thicker wire. Anyone replaced yours? Is our wiring 10 gauge? Thanks.
jor

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #1 – November 26, 2013, 12:03:53 pm

Jor,
Not 10g just a hard push. On one i clamped with a sheet metal vice-grip.
All others i used a standard remodel bos with push in ports.

Hope our experience helps you with your experience.

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #2 – November 26, 2013, 03:02:38 pm

The secret is either an expensive tool (NOT) or a large C clamp.  put a small piece of wood on the front side of the outlet, line up the wires and start the back side.  Put another piece of wood on the back side and use the C clamp to bring the two pieces together.

While you may be able to get the wires down using a screwdriver, they are designed to use the back to force the wires into the slots.

Did two like that this week when installing an extra outlet for a BatteryMINDER.

BTW, the expensive tool does just that-- forces the back down to push the wires into the slots.  Here is the Wirecon ( a Hubbell company) installation guide: http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/InstallationGuide.pdf

Brett

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #3 – November 26, 2013, 05:59:55 pm

Brett and John,
  Thanks for the tips. I'm on it!
jor

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Reply #4 – November 27, 2013, 06:39:36 pm

Changed out my 110v outlets today. Brett's recommended procedure worked great although I sure could have used a third hand. Found a pretty rinked up wiring job on one of the outlets. This situation might cover a lot of models as both our 95 and 99 are set up the same way. It's the outlet right under the "chandelier" dimmer switch. Foretravel used a WDT style on the outlet just like the others but they tapped into that outlet in order to supply the chandelier switch. These outlets are not designed for this purpose with the extra wires just jammed in there. Anyhow, I couldn't bring myself to replicate it so I eliminated the chandelier switch in that we never use that light anyhow. I can always figure something out some other time. I've always meant to ask FT why they set up this one light in the rig to be on 110 rather 12v like all of the others. Photo isn't too great but this will give you an idea. The blue arrow shows the wiring for the outlet and the red, for the dimmer.
jor

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #5 – November 27, 2013, 07:55:02 pm

The link I provided above should give you a good idea of how these should be wired.  As I remember, up to 3 wires per outlet IF done properly. 

I will tell you, I have never done more than two per outlet.

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #6 – November 27, 2013, 11:20:14 pm

From your photo, it looks like a conventional home electric box could have been used rather than the RV wire push-on style, which I think is not as 'safe'.  Somehow RV electric code allows connections that home code does not allow. We have only used home style outlets with screw connections.

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #7 – November 27, 2013, 11:56:38 pm

That is what I do as well when I take one off, put in a "home style one"
I also glue in a block of wood or? behind panel as support for the box to screw to.
John H

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #8 – November 28, 2013, 11:42:14 am

Berry
Just a question: rv outlets not as safe OR household?

I look at it this way: comercial uses the same plug for 15A110V as household, connections at the plug - typically looped and screwed BUT push-in are allowed. If its good enough for a commercial application - I am good. Besides its refrigerator fires thst are 80+% of RV issues.

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Reply #9 – November 28, 2013, 05:08:20 pm

OK, after reading the documentation that Brett posted (always wait until the job is done) I saw that doubling up in these boxes is acceptable. So I went back in and redid it as it was. Still think it's kind of funky. I think if I hadn't already bought these things I would do as Barry and John suggested - use regular residential boxes. The problem with a couple of them is there is not much in the way of extra cable to work with. I sure can see the outlets better now that they are a light color. Also, changed the dimmer to a switch.
jor

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #10 – November 28, 2013, 11:34:56 pm

When I look at RV 120-volt push down, I wonder why they are not allowed in stick homes. I like screw down connections better than push in for home. RV push down or home push in have a much smaller electrical contact point than screw down. I think that screw down are 'safer' in my point of view. I think that RV code allows it for faster install and limited space for connection boxes and maybe having a good lobby group.

RV code allows for daisy chain long Romex cables with just a push in along the chain. I think that expediency may be ok for manufacturers, but if we are doing some wiring in a place that can hold a standard box and screw down connections, I should forgo the push down.

Just because they allow it does not make it my first choice.

We changed our fully working propane fridge to home electric fridge mainly because of the fire hazard. For us it was, why wait until we have fire or until or propane fridge stops working. So I agree with John & Cheryl's 80% comment.

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Re: 110v Receptacle Replacement

Reply #11 – November 29, 2013, 11:57:52 am

Maybe the RV industry uses push down connectors instead of screws because they cannot jiggle loose. RVs get a lot more jiggling than do residential houses, even in California.

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