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LED Basement & Closet Installation

November 26, 2013, 11:42:34 pm

The lighting was poor in the compartment and just so-so in the closets so I found a roll of 5M 300LEDs 5050 Cool White Silicone Tube IP65 Waterproof Strip Lights on ebay: 5M 300Leds 5050 Cool White Silicone Tube IP65 Waterproof Strip Lights 12DC |  They are the larger LED strips at 10mm in width and 60 per meter. I ordered the waterproof strips type that come in a rectangular silicon tube. They don't have two sided tape so the tubes have to be glued or fastened to a mount. For the passenger's side basement, I ripped a 1"x2" hardwood strip and put a 45 degree angle on it so the LEDs would direct the light to the floor. On the driver's side, I changed the angle to 30 degrees so the light would be directed further into the compartment. On our 36 food coach, the passenger's side compartment has a much smaller door so needed the light where I keep most of the tools, parts, etc. Once the wood was ripped, I sprayed it satin black and then used GE Silcone II to hold the strip to the board. The board is screwed to the ceiling. I just removed the stock bulb and crimped on connectors that slide onto the old bulb holders. Have to be careful and keep the polarity correct or you can cook a whole strip instantly.

I did the same in the closets but used white plastic Romex fasteners every few inches to hold the strips in place after a coating of Silicone II on the backside. For the small light, I just cut a 6 LED section off after removing the strip from the silicone tube, put double sided foam tape on the back side and put them where the old bulb was. This is for the top shelf in the rear closet.

As you can see, the big LEDs have turned the basement into brighter than daylight. The photo is at night. The closet LEDs show all the wolf fur on the clothing now. The LED basement installation is straight but looks crooked as there is a wiring loom attached to the ceiling in front of it.

Bought these from a U.S. seller so I could get it done before some other projects. Not bad for $18 delivered. One roll is good for both sides of the basement and both closets with a several feet left over for the little lights. I soldered rather than using clamp fittings. More reliable.

Pierce

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Re: LED Basement & Closet Installation

Reply #1 – November 27, 2013, 12:35:32 am

Looks good. My sets of LED's arrived today, so I am starting my re/re tomorrow. Now I want to add lighting to the bays...

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Reply #2 – November 27, 2013, 12:42:42 am

@Pierce looks great. I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Just waiting for a warm day or a change in latitude. We head south at the end of this week. Have to work around the turkey traffic.

Oh yeah, how did you switch the bay lights? Manual switch or push button?

see ya
ken

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Reply #3 – November 27, 2013, 10:30:55 am

I will also be changing out the OEM bay lights to LED's. I have bumped my head one to may times and broken enough of them that the time has come to change them out. Plan is to remove the original fixture and replace with an "out of the way" switch that will turn on the LED's  when I open the door.

Roland

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Reply #4 – November 27, 2013, 10:51:19 am

Guys, thanks.

Ken, I just pulled the bulb out of the existing combination light/switch. That left two copper "arms" sticking out that previously held the bulb. I cut a small piece out of the silicone tube closest to the switch (on one, I just used the end as the switch was right there) and soldered on to the twin copper dots and then ran the small wires to the where the "arms" were, crimped on connectors and just pushed them on. Checked the polarity with a test light to ground to make sure which was which. Pretty fine red/black speaker wire works well but have to look a little as Radio Shack didn't have any.

Roland, the basement switches are in the way and I have scratched my back on them a few times. The closet switches are sort of crude looking with a big button and wires sticking out the back plus one has been intermittent. I took it apart and cleaned it but would like to replace all of them with magnetic switches. Anyone have a good source?

The big LEDs have been a success and at just over a dollar per foot, hard to go wrong. Forgot to say the color is about 6500K.

Pierce

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Reply #5 – November 27, 2013, 10:07:38 pm

Been thinking about the bay lighting, don't believe I will have them come on automatically when I open the bay door. Hey 99% of the time I go in there is during the daytime. Will install either a toggle or push button switch instead.

Roland

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Reply #6 – November 27, 2013, 10:26:23 pm

How about an automatic switch with a manual one at the light. Best of both worlds.

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Reply #7 – November 28, 2013, 09:43:11 pm

Hi Pierce:

Where did you hook up the feed end of the air hose reel to?  I've been wanting to install an automatic reel but can't figure out where to hook it up on my 2001 U320.  Right now the fitting is next to the propane tank.

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Reply #8 – November 28, 2013, 10:23:37 pm

Fiddler,

I didn't want to be limited by the engine air to pump up the tires or remove the wheels so I bought a small contractor's compressor off Craigslist for $50 or so. It gets to 125 psi pretty quickly and has no trouble putting 110 in the tires without waiting. It has twin tanks mounted low with four feet so it won't flop about while underway. I ran a short hose hose over to it from the reel. You can almost see it in the photo. The 1" HD impact is visible in the little slide in compartment. I had a stainless aircraft accumulator tank that I put quick connects on with a small and one large connector for large air hose and can put it on the discharge end of the hose reel if I need high volume. Another thought was that if I ever suffered an engine compressor failure, I could always use the other compressor to feed the system. Not dry air but would work if I had to. Actually, this is the first rig I have driven that has an air dryer. We had to drain tanks each day on the apparatus and on my Buffalo Bus also.

I have added a quick connect into the coach air so I can use it if I don't want to start the generator to run the compressor. Way too much starting load for the inverter. I probably should have plumbed in valves so I wouldn't have to change the reel air supply but too many other projects. Taking the decals off the coach is taking forever.

I did find out that my 1/2" impact has no trouble with the lugs so the big impact isn't really needed. I had a choice of 50 or 25 feet on the reel. I went with 25 as the friction loss is much less and I can extend the hose if I really needed to.

Pierce

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Reply #9 – November 29, 2013, 09:18:52 am

Pierce

Question, where did you put your 25' reel? I think we have same body styles and thats exactly what i want to do.

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Reply #10 – November 29, 2013, 11:02:47 am

John,

The entry step is just on the other side of the reel. It looks as if it is bolted to the floor. It is not. I just didn't want to go down through the floor.  I took a 2"x6" board, painted it satin black, countersunk the bottom and then used four stainless bolts to hold the reel to the board. Then I placed the two in position and drilled sideways from the step door compartment and used a couple of wood lag screws to secure it. I didn't like the stability so I made a small cut into the entry carpet and ran a stainless bolt from under the wall carpet to a mounting hole high up on the reel. The bolt head is hidden so can't be seen climbing in the coach. I did have to find a spacer to add between the top reel mount and the wall to keep the whole thing exactly vertical. Now it stays put when I pull on the hose.

The step compartment is perfect for storing a HF pair of chock blocks. They clear the top by a quarter of an inch and with the easy access, it's hard to find an excuse for not chocking the wheels every time.

Pierce

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Reply #11 – November 29, 2013, 04:37:54 pm

Thank you makes sence. Did not see photos.. whrre are they?

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Reply #12 – November 29, 2013, 07:09:05 pm

John,

It's the first post on this topic at the top of the page. Also first photo of four.

Attached it again below.

Pierce

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