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Charger Opinion

Does anyone have an opinion of this type of device? I am thinking that the onboard charger/converter on my '91 GV ORED might be dubious.


12 Volt 33 AMP Regulated ON Board RV Battery Charger | eBay


Is this even high enough amperage..?


Thanks
1991 Foretravel Grand Villa 36'
1993 Cobra Phoenix 33'

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #1
I had a 75 amp rated unit in my 93 U225.  Of course more output, and cost.
Dave Cobb
Buckhorn Lake Resort The Club, #6202, Kerrville TX
check the map.  I do rent it out when I am traveling!
2001, U320, 36' #5887, in Kerrville, FT Club #17006, (7/23 to present)
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee L, Summit, white
EX: 98 U295, 36' #5219, (mid door), (4/13-10/23)
EX: 93 U225, 36' (4/11 to 4/13)

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #2
When I replaced my original charger/converter, I was advised to stay with the same output as original unit.  You also need to consider the number of batteries on your coach, type of batteries, how you will use your coach, etc.  The new tech "Smart" charger/converters take much better care of your batteries - but some are "smarter" than others.  This subject has been discussed recently:

New inverter/charger/converter
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #3
Absolutely go with a SMART charger designed for RV's.  Amp output of more than 40 amps is only important if you dry camp and run the generator to recharge the batteries.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #4
Call most any of the battery manf. reps and they will tell you a smart charger with temp control.

InterActer INTPS1210.  Plug in, not for shore power.  Does an excellent job of keeping batteries fully charged. 

Shore power.. Magnum 2812 Inverter/Charger w/tri-metric to keep track.  pc
 
 
S/W Houston 95" U320C SE/40' 
Build #4778  Cummins M11
Repairs & Covered RV Parking (BAO)
PPL is close..

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #5
You don't mention what batteries you will be charging with this charger.

Are they Gel or AGM, which are sealed and need a charger with voltage & temperature control or are they flooded where you can add water, which could use a simpler charger.

What amp-hour (20-hour rating) are they? Smaller battery capacities can work ok with a 33-amp charger.

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #6
I replaced my original equipment 75 amp. converter/charger on my '91 with a Progressive Dynamics 9200 series 45 amp. converter w/ smart charger ( $133 ) based on input from the Forum experts. I never dry camp over one night and I eliminated one of my D house batteries and am changing my lighting to LEDs so I think the 45 amp. will be enough.  It has worked well for almost a month and it hasn't boiled my battery dry either.
'91 U240 GV / 36'
CAT 3208 w/Allison MT 643  4 speed
'10 Ford Flex

Growing old is mandatory
Growing up is optional

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #7
Hi, I have 2 Interstate 8D wet batteries, one Workhouse, and one Deep Cycle.

We like to dry camp a fair bit.

Even with both batteries being recently tested, and 1 only a couple of weeks old, my batteries are running down right away. Vampire draw of some sort? I am plugged in at home (15 amp house service), so I would think that the charger is running, but perhaps it is toast. I have driven it a bit lately, and the other night, I could barely start the Genny, which after a couple of minutes gave me enough juice to start the engine.

The Magnums look nice, but at more than 10% of my coaches value, are an unlikely purchase.

When I plug in, I can hear a thunk, and the converter starts to make its usual humming noise.

The battery issue on this thing will drive me nuts (kill me) yet...



Thanks
1991 Foretravel Grand Villa 36'
1993 Cobra Phoenix 33'

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #8
Dave,

Pull out your digital voltmeter and tell us the readings at each battery bank:

With shore power disconnected.

With shore power connected or generator running.

With engine running.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #9
Something is rotten in Denmark!

Voltages

                  Deep Cycle.        Workhorse

Unplugged. 13.03              5.72

Plugged.    12.96              11.74

Genny.      12.63              12.74 (high 12.78)

Engine.      12.60              5.6 (boost on)

Engine.      12.64              5.36 (boost off)



AARRGGHHH!!!
1991 Foretravel Grand Villa 36'
1993 Cobra Phoenix 33'

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #10
Hard to believe BOTH converter and alternator both went out at the same time.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #11
This looks like it could be crusty rusty loose connections.  Starting at the alternator, disconnect the wire, clean and lightly sand the terminal with emery cloth until copper surfaces are shiny. Do all connections at the isolator, all battery terminals, converter and boost relay terminals. This may seem like a lot of work, but you might be surprised with the result.
Peter and Tammy Fleming
1991 U300 GV 40 - Sold, owned for 4 years
Downsized to Roadtrek Popular 210 class B

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #12
Seems a sensible suggestion; I will redo all connections tomorrow. They 'look' fine, but I know that can be deceptive as heck...


Thanks


Dave
1991 Foretravel Grand Villa 36'
1993 Cobra Phoenix 33'

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #13
Report back with the same voltage measurements, and with engine idling, also measure voltage at alternator post, and all three isolator posts (if there are 4, 2 will be connected together).

Is your chassis battery a wet cell with removable caps? If so, you can use a floating ball tester to measure the charge level. Verify all cells are approx equal, and have enough water.
Peter and Tammy Fleming
1991 U300 GV 40 - Sold, owned for 4 years
Downsized to Roadtrek Popular 210 class B

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #14
Dave, word to the wise. Be very careful checking those isolator connections. I had to buy a new one because one of the post broke off. Terrible location for electrical connections. I believe Brett said he moved his isolator inside under the bed. Think I will do the same thing.
Jerry
'91 U240 GV / 36'
CAT 3208 w/Allison MT 643  4 speed
'10 Ford Flex

Growing old is mandatory
Growing up is optional

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #15
Moving the isolator is ok, but keep in mind the currents are high (longer wires will drop more voltage) and isolator needs airflow for cooling.
Peter and Tammy Fleming
1991 U300 GV 40 - Sold, owned for 4 years
Downsized to Roadtrek Popular 210 class B

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #16
At least on the 1993 U240, not wire splces/changes were needed to relocate everything behind the driver's side rear tire to the "electrical compartment" at the foot of the bed.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #17
My Isolator looks in pretty good condition, as does the charger/convertor. In fact, both look like they might be replacements, there are extra holes near the charger in the septic bay that don't make sense, unless it was replaced, and the mounting needed to change slightly, although on a 23 year-old coach, One never knows.

Isolator is a 3 post.

One odd thing; sometimes when I first fire up the Genny, if I turn the Boost Switch 'Off', the Genny shuts down right away. Why would that occur..?


Thanks


Dave
1991 Foretravel Grand Villa 36'
1993 Cobra Phoenix 33'

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #18
Dave,

Again, get voltage readings at the isolator with engine off and then on.

The two outer lugs are to the two battery banks.

The center one from the alternator.

With engine off, the outer lugs should read battery voltage (12.2 VDC= 50% discharged, 12.7= fully charged).

With engine running, the center lug should be 14+ and the two outer lugs approximately .7 VDC less.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #19
Yes, Brett, perfect suggestion. Just curious Dave, did everything work well at one time, or is this coach new to you or any work done recently on the 12 volt system? It's sounding like something might be mis-wired?
Peter and Tammy Fleming
1991 U300 GV 40 - Sold, owned for 4 years
Downsized to Roadtrek Popular 210 class B

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #20
Hi, we bought the coach last Summer. Initially it was all good, then a couple of days later we had to get a jump, but that made sense as it had been stored briefly, and the terminals were super loose. Tightened them, and all seemed good. Before a big trip in August, we bought a new battery as one of the 8D's seems dubious, and we took the 'better safe than sorry' approach. At $400-ish bucks that wasn't super happy, but made sense. 14,000 long trip and we only had to get jumped once, and that also seemed logical as we were dry camping for 4 or 5 days, and I, most likely, didn't run the engine (at all), or the Genny very much. Jumped easily, and the balance of the trip was problem free.

Got home, and parked the RV for the Fall and Winter (plugged in), and started having issues starting, some times there would be enough juice to start the Genny, then I could put a surface charge onto the batteries and start the coach. My battery warranty was almost up, so I took both in for a checkup, and they tested fine, but since one was coming up on warranty, Interstate replaced it just to be safe.

Now, it seems that I should be able to have the coach unplugged for days at a time and still be able to start the coach, even it it means using the Boost switch now and then. Not so much; I am having trouble starting it even after short periods unplugged and with little having been used to discharge the battery, let alone batteries.

All connections, so far, are good, tight and clean. I am loath to start cutting ends off and redoing the connections as I have a back bad, and these days, even short amounts of leaning down and such are killer :(


Thanks

1991 Foretravel Grand Villa 36'
1993 Cobra Phoenix 33'

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #21
Dave,
 
A proper diagnoses is needed before you need to start cutting things apart.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #22
Dave:

Good rundown of the coach history. I agree, before you take apart or replace anything, you need to trouble-shoot and eliminate.

Couple of comments.

It is not normal to need a jumpstart even after dry camping for several days. The isolator should prevent discharging the chassis battery. The boost switch will allow you to get the genny going if house batteries are low.

From everything you have mentioned, the isolator and charging systems are suspect. I'm thinking you will need an RV shop to do some trouble-shooting. Stay away from automotive or truck repair shops - they don't understand RV isolator/alternator function and will give you bad advice. Good luck.
Peter and Tammy Fleming
1991 U300 GV 40 - Sold, owned for 4 years
Downsized to Roadtrek Popular 210 class B

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #23
Hi, I just bought (can't hurt to modernize) a PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS PD9280. Was too good a price too pass up..

I might also buy a new 200 amp isolator, as I see better tech available there as well, and for the price; allows me to improve that suspect item. Can always sell the old stuff, if it tests alright.

Anything else worth looking at..?


Thanks


Dave
1991 Foretravel Grand Villa 36'
1993 Cobra Phoenix 33'

Re: Charger Opinion

Reply #24
I'm guessing that your problems will lessen once you get that nice PD charger up and running. The Charge Wizard will ensure that your coach batteries are charged fully and properly. You then might consider installing an inexpensive battery tender such as the Trik-L-Start which should keep your starting batteries charged too. Then you can move on to doing some step by step diagnostics. Good luck.
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