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Topic: Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before) (Read 615 times) previous topic - next topic

Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before)

(1) I always start the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes before moving.  Is that enough time?
(2) I always let it run about 5 minutes when stopping before turning the key off to cool the turbo.  Is that enough time?
(3) I try to always turn off the dash air before turning off the engine.  Told this is best for pressure release.
(4) I always keep the coach on shore power when stored and a trickle charger on cranking batteries.
(5) Try to drive about 65 and not go over.  This allows the 6th gear to kick in.
(6) Always level before letting the slides out.
(7) When arriving let slides out with engine running. (keeps air tank full)
(8) Can take slides in without starting engine.
(9)  Have never dumped the air.  Never did figure out why this was necessary.
(10)Always use my progressive surge protector as this cks voltage on each leg before plugging in.
(11) Always use a water filter for water at campsites.
(12) Always ck my tow car turn signals and brake lights before moving and double ck outside to ensure doors are latched and all is right.
(13) Always remember to remember
 
Dan & Shirley Stansel
2002 U295 4020 AGDS Build#6054
Towing Buick Enclave & M &  G Braking
Emerald Bay, Lake Palestine, Texas
MC# 16650

Re: Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before)

Reply #1
Depending on which type of converter/charger you have, leaving it on "trickle charge" may not be a good idea. Even with some of the newer "smart" chargers, it's not a bad idea to put a load on the battery bank without a charger and then connect the charger after the bank has depleted (no more than down to 12.2vdc). This will put the charger into "bulk" mode and help desulfate the battery's plates.

Dunno about slides or air dumping. We put water into a Brita filter (a carafe) for drinking water even if we fill from the home tap.

We always check toad's lights and signals every time. We always chock at least one rear wheel when stopping. I drive at 60 but we only have a 4th gear.

Craig
1993 U225 36' Unihome GV with PACBRAKE exhaust retarder, Banks Stinger and Solar Panels.
Toad: 1999 Jeep Wrangler 2-door soft-top.

"No one has ever had to evacuate a city because the solar panels broke."

Re: Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before)

Reply #2
(1) I always start the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes before moving.  Is that enough time?
(2) I always let it run about 5 minutes when stopping before turning the key off to cool the turbo.  Is that enough time?

I generally start driving after the air is up but take it easy. If at the foot of a grade, I may warm it up longer before starting uphill and then wait until temps have normalized before going to full throttle.

If I have been driving in town, I just shut it off. Anytime it has been pulling, I wait longer. Long grades and hot weather make for longer shut down times as heat soak will see turbo temps at 600 degrees after shutting down. This is hot enough to cause the oil to start oxidizing and making coke. Make sure to fast idle during this period before shutting down. In hot weather and high oil temperature, the oil pressure may be lower than the turbo likes at normal idle speed and the oil squirters up into the pistons may not be as effective keeping the piston crowns cool and keep them from expanding. Fast idle circulates water faster and brings all temperatures down quickly while insuring good lubrication. Oil temperature takes much longer to come down than the water temperature does so that has to be considered before shutting down.

With our 8V-71s in the fire service, they started instantly and as soon as the guys were in the jump seat, it was full throttle out to 2400 RPM in each gear. They were never plugged in for block heat. No cracked manifolds or any other trouble in all the years I drove them. We NEVER let them run at normal idle speed for more than 30 seconds before hitting the fast idle switch. Naturally, the taxpayers covered the accelerated tests :) but sure wanted us at their house in a hurry.

Pierce
Pierce and Gaylie Stewart
'93 U300/36 WTBI
Detroit 6V-92TA Jake
1140 watts on the roof
SBFD (ret)

Re: Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before)

Reply #3
Dan - that is a good list.  But, as usual, partially coach dependent. Depends on the year, engine and slides/no slides to start with.  I'm sure there are a bunch of other variables that probably come into play.
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Mark & Mary Benko
Former coach: 2005 U295 3823
Jeep Cherokee, Honda Fit

Re: Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before)

Reply #4
Let me address warm up/cool down times.

There is not (and should not) be any "standard times.

If you are parked overnight at a truckstop with the freeway on ramp 50' away, you need to let it warm up (high idle) longer than if you are going to drive at low speeds/throttle positions for a couple of minutes getting out of the RV park and on city streets.

Same for shut down.  If you just pulled a long grade and are stopping at a "scenic vista" at the top, clearly, you need a longer idle time than if you have driven on city streets, registered in an RV park and just pulled into your site.

Just use common sense.

Brett
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before)

Reply #5
I don't turn off dash A/C if doing a short stop. But, if done for the day, I turn the compressor off and leave the fan running to dry out all the moisture on the evaporator to prevent nasty stench!
1998 U270 34'

Re: Best practices, technical (was Good things to do Before)

Reply #6
I don't turn off dash A/C if doing a short stop. But, if done for the day, I turn the compressor off and leave the fan running to dry out all the moisture on the evaporator to prevent nasty stench!

Yup.  And do the same for the roof A/C's.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020