Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups. (Read 916 times) previous topic - next topic

More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Let's say I've successfully backed the coach into a campsite that offers full hookups.

My engine and generator are running, Engine and turbo are cooling down at idle for 20 minutes until shut down.

In what order should I plug in...water, electric and sewer?

I will be using a filter and pressure regulator with the water hook up, and a surge protector for electricity.  I will shut the breaker off at the electricity source before plugging in. I'll plug in, then reset the breaker at the source to power up.

I understand the sewer hose will be connected and deployed but valves will be closed until it's time to dump....first black, then grey.

(I do plan on dumping a solution of warm water, dawn and calgon into the toilet before we set out on our first trip. I'll dump the tanks when I arrive.)

Thanks all.
1993 U300 40ft GV SE
Build # 4344

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #1 –
Jeff
First be sure to turn the load off ( like air conditioners) and then let your generator run a few minutes more before turning it off.  Always best to have all loads off when unplugging or plugging in , or starting or turning off generator.

You typed that you are letting your engine cool down ( turbo) for 20 minutes- is that a typo?  Seems long to me , especially if you have not been doing long hard climbs.  Not sure what engine you have so check your manual to see how long to cool down- could save you some diesel fuel.

Before plugging electric in- check the pedestal to be sure it has good electric.  I am a full timer and I won't back in to a spot until after I checked the pedestal.  If it is not good- I move on.  If I was assigned a spot- notify the office and don't let them tell you to use it until you are satisfied the electricity is ok.  Lots of expensive things in our coaches can go bye bye with bad electricity.  If all is good, plug in and make sure electricity is good in the coach before hooking up water. 

It is a good idea to turn the water on after you check the pedestal, before you back in also.  That way you know both are working when you do back in- saves having to move.

Water hook up is the second thing.  Good idea to have a pressure regulator and a water filter outside to protect you inside pipes and filter the water ( some places have "interesting water".)  Some of us filter the water and fill our holding tanks, then just run off our tanks- that is what we do.  Always have good water and don't worry about the park pressure .  Be sure you sanitize you fresh water system first.

The last thing is the sewer hook up.

When leaving, dump your tanks and unhook in the reverse order.  Washing hands after handling the sewer hose is a good idea before doing the water supply.

Hope this helps.

Have fun and enjoy your coach.
Ted & Karen
2001 U270 36' - sold after 12 years full timing

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #2 –
Some recommend to carry a spray bottle of strong bleach solution.  Disinfect the water faucet before you connect hose.  You never know...
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #3 –
Second all of Ted's comments.  The reason to turn off all appliances, a/c's etc. when running off the genset or shore power or Inverter is to ensure no spikes to the appliances and to save the contacts in the ATS.  Be sure to practice this as it is the best way to ensure longevity of the ATS.

I install the pressure regulator at the spigot so the hose is also protected from high shore water pressure.

Don't idle the engine that long.  Engine is already stabilized by checking in procedure and driving to the campground site.
Peter & Beth Martin
No Forrest? What have you done?
MC# 15890 until Dec 2016; FMCA #F329677
Cincinnati, OH

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #4 –
Hi Jeff,

I am sure others will add to this. There are many ways to do this.  You will figure out your own dance.

I am not sure you need 20 minutes for turbo cool down.  You drove into the campground, registered, found your spot, backed in all at low loads.  5 minutes is probably plenty while the coach gets leveled.

Back in, get where you want to be, level the coach, turn off any big electrical loads (AC), shut the gen down, shut the engine down, pull out electrical cord, check the box and connections with your plug in checker, make sure the box breaker is off, connect the cord, turn the breaker on. In the coach, verify that the power is on.  Now you can turn on AC or any other loads.

Run some water out of the water hookup.  This will flush out some crud if it is there.  I usually run some in a bucket to see how much stuff is in the water.  Sometimes a lot! Hook up water hose. We use a particulate filter at least, sometimes a finer particulate filter, a charcol filter and a water softener as well (like in Arizona). We use city water to fill our tank and maybe for a Hollywood shower otherwise it is off. 

We usually only hook up sewer hose if we are dumping. If we leave the hose out it is not connected to the coach and capped. Dump the tanks when they are more than half full, especially the black tank, they will flush out better.

Then the toys come out.  Play commences.

Roger
Roger Engdahl and Susan Green
2001 U320 3610 #5879 (Home2) - 2014 Jeep Cherokee or 2018 F150
Hastings, MN

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #5 –
Correct-- no need for 20 minute turbo cooldown.  In fact in the normal CG routine (stop at office, check in, drive at 5 MPH to site and park, you can shut off the engine immediately. 

Now, if you have just pulled a long steep grade and pull into a hilltop rest area, let it idle for 5 minutes-- a little longer if coolant temperature is above normal.

And, as already said, you can well extend ATS life by only changing sources with loads OFF.  So, when we pull into a CG (generator going, roof A/C going) here is the order:  Turn off A/C. Let generator run 5 more minutes as cool down (no/very light load). Turn off generator.  Turn off CG breaker.  Check CG outlet for polarity, ground and voltage (either plug in gauge or voltmeter-- only takes 30 seconds, even with voltmeter [if you need "how the 50 amp outlet should be wired]. Plug in.  Turn on A/C or whatever you desire.  Check voltage with all loads on.  We have a digital voltmeter plugged in to the 110 outlet in the galley.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #6 –
Quote from: wolfe10 –
We have a digital voltmeter plugged in to the 110 outlet in the galley.
We keep one of the Kill A Watt monitors plugged into a seldom used outlet all the time.  Makes it easy to verify volts and frequency (Hz), both on the shore power hookup and when running generator.

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor - Low Temperature Alarms -...
As an Amazon Associate Foretravel Owners' Forum earns from qualifying purchases.
1993 U280 SE 40' WTBI, Build: 4359
C8.3 300hp, 6-Speed, Exhaust Brake
960 watts on the roof (6 x 160)
Sorento (or BOLT) on a Kar Kaddy SS
"Nature abhors a vacuum"

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #7 –
Howdy Jeff,  Although I have a hard-wired Progressive Industries surge protector: Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea               
 I always use a Power Pal circuit tester on the pedestal outlet before I plug in: RV Campground Voltage Tester Protects Your RV
Oftentimes, I get out and check pedestal before I back into a spot.  It has saved me several times.
Good Luck, Dave A
Dave and Nancy Abel
'00 U320 36' WTFE  Build #5669
'10 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
Livingston, TX  SKP's Fulltiming

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #8 –
If camping for more than two days when arriving at CG site I shut off roof top AC and while coach is still in travel height wheel covers go on.  Once the coach is leveled wheel wells can do a number on your knuckles when placing covers on tires.  During this time the generator has time to cool down before shutting it off and lightning up with shore power.
Gary Mauck
Deerfield Beach, Fl.
2005 U320 40' PBGB

"Elks Care, Elks Share!"

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #9 –
Gary,

Same here-- of parked over two days in the sun, tire covers go on first thing.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #10 –
Lots of good tips but we try and keep things very simple. We seldom if ever use the generator or roof top  A/C's while traveling so when we get to our RV Space, we simply push the auto level button and shot off the engine once the coach has leveled. One of us gets out and plugs in the electric, we too have a built-in Progressive Industries Surge Protector that will not let any electric get into the coach that is not clean. Once I hear the transfer switch under the bed click on I start the A/C if needed and put up the satellite dish. WERE DONE.

One of the nicest benefits of having a Foretravel is that we don't hook up our water or our sewer until we need to fill or dump respectively. We use only the water out of our water tank exclusively. That way we have fresh, chlorinated water going into the tank weekly. We only hook up the dump lines when we need to dump. Since I rinse the dump hose every time I dump the dump hose is kept much cleaner and  the coach just looks better without the hose hanging out. We generally have to fill the water tank and dump about every 7 to 10 days with just a little conservation. Daily showers are over rated. We try very hard to camp where its 75 degrees and I generally don't move fast enough to work up a sweat.

By using this method, particularly if we are only staying at a camp site one or two nights, we avoid the hassle of all of the hook ups. Five minutes, we're done and relaxing. We always wonder why so many RV'ers start hooking up all  of the water and sewer lines every time they stop. It just seems to be such a hassle.
The selected media item is not currently available.Kent Speers
Locust Grove, OK
1993 U300 SSE 40' (Restored at FOT 2009) Build 4323
720 watts Solar
6V92TA DDEC Silver Engine
2014 Subaru Outback

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #11 –
The "Power Pal" has always worked well for me. Could not be any easier. Then my Progressive Industries surge protector takes care of anything else that wants to hurt us.
Raymond
Raymond & Babette Jordan
1997 U 320
1998 Ford Explorer XLT

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #12 –
Quote from: Kent Speers –
We always wonder why so many RV'ers start hooking up all  of the water and sewer lines every time they stop. It just seems to be such a hassle.

Our thoughts, as well. We connect the water and sewer lines only when needed, which is rather infrequently. It's nice to keep things as simple and easy as possible!
David and Carolyn Osborn
1995 U320C SE 40' Build 4726 Feb 1995
FMCA 147762
Motorcade 17186

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #13 –
Great info all. Thank you!
1993 U300 40ft GV SE
Build # 4344

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #14 –
Quote from: D.J. Osborn –
Our thoughts, as well. We connect the water and sewer lines only when needed, which is rather infrequently. It's nice to keep things as simple and easy as possible!


Even with daily showers for each of us, we are good for 3-5 days using the onboard water. The weight of the water in the fresh water tank moves to the gray and black tanks as the water is used. Even if you only hookup water and start using it, you run the risk of becoming overweight if you don't dump before heading out.

With that in mind, when traveling day by day, we won't bother to dump and refill until the fresh water supply gets too low for another day, keeping in mind  to use only city water, which is tested and chlorinated.
Tom Lang K6PG (originally  KC6UEC)
and Diane Lang
2003 38 U295 build 6209
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit Ecodiesel
still have tow-ready 2006 Acura MDX 
Temple City, California
Motorcade 16681 California Chapter President
SKP 16663 member of SKP Park of the Sierra, Coarsegold California
FMCA F071251
Retired electrical and electronic engineer

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #15 –
A lot of folks do the full hook up thing every time they stop because they don't have the luxury of big holding tanks like we do.  I have talked with people with 40+ ft SOB's that have much smaller tanks.

Just another reason we love our Foretravel.
Ted & Karen
2001 U270 36' - sold after 12 years full timing

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #16 –
The only comment I would make is that the sewer hose is always last when hooking up and last when leaving, then wash my hands. I never take the chance of handling water after sewer.
Regards,
Brett

'99 42' Foretravel Xtreme
'14 Brown Motorsports Stacker
'05 Chevy SSR
'02 BMW R1150R

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #17 –
When handling the sewer hose, I use rubber exam gloves that I get at Walmart. Then throw them away. That way my hands stay clean. They are not that expensive.
Eric & Nancy
1999 36 Ft. U320 WTFE
2016 GMC Terrain

Re: More 'best practices', setting up with full hookups.

Reply #18 –
Quote from: Eric Rudolph –
When handling the sewer hose, I use rubber exam gloves that I get at Walmart. Then throw them away. That way my hands stay clean. They are not that expensive.

We do the same: disposable gloves for sewer hoses, diesel fuel and mechanical work.
Brett Wolfe
EX: 1993 U240
Moderator, ForeForum 2001-
Moderator Diesel RV Club 2002-
Moderator, FMCA Forum 2009-2020
Chairman FMCA Technical Advisory Committee 2011-2020