Water Pressure in Coach

Topic: Water Pressure in Coach (Read 1903 times) previous topic - next topic

Water Pressure in Coach

August 18, 2015, 11:39:46 am

Apologies for multiple posts to the Tech Talk part of the Forum today, but we're getting ready to put on new steer tires and have some maintenance done on our coach. That's the reason all of this is front-of-mind today.

We've been full-time in our coach for three months now. Overall, we love it! But our water pressure seems low. We recently made a trip to PA and stayed in Susan's Dad's apartment. While staying there, we were reminded how nice higher-pressure showers and kitchen faucets could be. (Of course, we once owned a fixed-foundation home where the pressure was super-high and we loved it, but paid the price by blowing out a valve in the dishwasher and flooding our kitchen. Next step: hardwood floor replacement).

Outside the coach, we use a Valterra adjustable pressure regulator with a large gauge. It's currently set to limit pressure to just under 50. A gauge the previous owner installed (?) in the bay with the water distribution manifold shows the identical pressure, so that seems to be what we have inside. Various RV forums seem to say 45-50 is the "safe" range.

Is that true? Is anyone on the Foretravel Forum running higher pressures? Or . . . is pressure not our problem, but rather the showerhead design in our coach and the faucet in the kitchen? Those are the areas where water pressure seems really weak.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #1 – August 18, 2015, 01:44:09 pm

I run the same pressure regulator on apx the same setting. If you run too much pressure there is a chance of blowing a line or fitting. I understand the plumbing is designed to withstand higher pressures but age, use, etc. may also be a factor. I would hate to come home and find I've been flooded. It has happened to me. So as a precaution turn the 12 volt water pump off or if on a city hook up turn the faucet off when you leave. As far as the presure goes I would compare the city water flow with the 12 volt coach water pump flow. If they are about the same then you might look into a new shower head. You can get a bigger 12 volt water pump with a higher gpm but then you will fill your gray tank and empty your fresh water holding tank faster. Not a problem if you are hooked to water and sewer.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #2 – August 18, 2015, 01:48:15 pm

Have you tried filling the fresh water tank and using the on board water pump? You might get more pressure that way. At least it will be consistent campsite to campsite.

I just discovered that our water pump has an adjustable pressure switch. My pump was constantly cycling on and off. Saw a youtube on how to adjust the pressure switch and OMG what a difference. No more cycling and lots'o pressure. Our pump is a ShurFlo 4008. Search youtube for your model.

see ya
ken

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #3 – August 18, 2015, 01:51:58 pm

We were getting low flow more the last couple of years and decided the internal lines must be getting clogged up with calcium.

Made 2 changes and it works great.

1. Based on what others on the forum do, we know fill our fresh water tank and run our water internally using our pump. Good pressure always. I use a whole house filter before going in the coach so everything is filtered and I don't worry about campground pressure going up, down, etc.

2. The second thing is I bought a RV Water softener which I use after the whole house filter. Now we have filtered water that is soft in our tank always. Much better for our internal plumbing, especially our new Splendide 2100xc, great for showers, dishes, etc.

After I fill the tank, I unhook ( love quick connectors) and put everything away. Now the only time I have any hoses outside is when I am taking on water or dumping tanks. Just have my electric line to the pedestal- easy to move in case of emergency.

We live in our coach full time and this is working well for us.

Hope this helps.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #4 – August 18, 2015, 01:57:58 pm

BodySpa RV Shower Kit - White - Oxygenics 26781 - Shower - Camping World
We changed out our shower head to one from link above. Makes our 45 psi feel like 60. A little noisy but worth it.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #5 – August 18, 2015, 02:12:42 pm

I do the same thing Ted and Karen do. I very seldom stay hooked up to city water. Once a year I will pump vinegar into the lines of my water system and let it set overnight. This will help dissolve calcium deposits and keep things flowing smoothly. Use a small elect or drill motor pump to pump the vinegar into your city water supply hose. It will take apx 2 gal. Home Depot or Lowes will have it. Have some one open each faucet until the vinegar pumped out, both hot and cold. Turn your Aqua Hot off before doing this. Do not pump the vinegar into the fresh water tank. Leave your fresh water tank fill switch off. Let this sit over night and purge it with fresh water the next day. You will be surprised at the green vinegar exiting the faucet. You might have to do this more than once if it's never been done before.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #6 – August 18, 2015, 02:26:04 pm

Howdy LookingWest,
Like others, we fill fresh water tank and use the internal water pump(Shurflo 4008). We full time and have been doing this for several years. I wonder if your sediment screens on your faucets and showerheads are stopped/full of sediment? Although I fill tank through a whole house filter, I still need to clean these sediment screens occasionally.
Good Luck, Dave A

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #7 – August 18, 2015, 02:29:19 pm

Quote from: kenhat – August 18, 2015, 01:48:15 pm

I just discovered that our water pump has an adjustable pressure switch. My pump was constantly cycling on and off. Saw a youtube on how to adjust the pressure switch and OMG what a difference. No more cycling and lots'o pressure. Our pump is a ShurFlo 4008. Search youtube for your model.

see ya
ken

Howdy Ken, We have the 4008 as well. Did you adjust the pressure switch or the bypass adjustment? I was able to adjust the bypass and like you the pump works great.
Dave A

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #8 – August 18, 2015, 04:25:41 pm

We fill the fresh water tank and then run off the 12 volt pump. We have been in our coach for 4 years and like others we only have the power cord hooked up unless we are filling or dumping the tanks

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #9 – August 18, 2015, 04:38:49 pm

@Dave it was the pressure switch. Didn't know there was a by-pass adjustment until I asked Mr. Google.

Now I'm going to have to go back and recalibrate by the spec...

Adjusting The Shurflo Revolution 4008 Water Pump

see ya
ken

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #10 – August 18, 2015, 04:52:48 pm

Hi Richard and Susan,

Flow and pressure are often confused. When we got our coach almost five years ago the shower, the bathroom sink and the service sink seemed like amost nothing came out. We took all of the faucet ends apark and they were full of grit and bits of stuff. Cleaned them all out and cleaned the faucet cartridges as well and the strainer on the pump. All work much better. We have done this almost every year and there is less and less each time. We think there was a lot of stuff in the fresh water tank. Flushed it out carefully but once it gets in there is takes time to get it out. You will never get quite the same performance from the pump and a small accumulator tank that you get connected to city water but is should be close.

We use an 80 micron flushable spin filter to get the big chunks (drip irrigation item, a 40 psi pressure regulator, a < 10 micron particulate filter, a carbon filter, a water softener all before any water gets into the coach. We always fill the tank and use the internl wter pump. We might use city water connection for showers fter filling the tank but we don't leave it on and rarely leave it connected. This gives you much greater protection against water leaks and the damage they cause.

So check all of the ends ot your faucets and shower head. I ws surprised at the stuff I found.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #11 – August 19, 2015, 10:17:50 am

I installed a remco variable speed pump. My flow at faucets is equivalent to a house. I normally dry camp, so I'm easy on water.

I've tried using city water through those cheap pressure regualtors that go in line on the garden hose. It flows a lot less and is lower pressure than my pump. The pump shuts off 75-85psi, it claims. I left the accumulator in place, but pumped it up to ~90psi. It absorbs expansion for the hot water heater.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #12 – August 19, 2015, 10:49:07 am

Roger,
The flushable filter sounds like a great idea! Do you have the part numbers or details handy on your flushable filter setup? In our current home base park which is on well water sometimes gunks up the sediment filters in a week or so on our park model. I would like to put one of these in front of the two sediment filters in hopes of prolonging their life. We have the PM sold, but I think I will do it for the coach as well... we also generally just use our pump and fill the tank as needed.
Don

Quote from: Roger and Susan in Home2 – August 18, 2015, 04:52:48 pm

We use an 80 micron flushable spin filter to get the big chunks (drip irrigation item, a 40 psi pressure regulator, a < 10 micron particulate filter, a carbon filter, a water softener all before any water gets into the coach.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #13 – August 19, 2015, 12:48:56 pm

Hi Don,

I got mine (and lots of drip irrigtion stuff) from

Filter

Drip Irrigation | Dripworks | Amiad Tagline Filters

The one I have is an FAMCP34. It looks like it comes with a 155 micron screen but you can get them as low as 50. Under $20. This has 3/4 pipe threads. They have all of the fitting you need to go to hose fittings on each end.

I use this 40 psi pressure regulator. Less than $8.

Drip Irrigation | Dripworks | Pressure Regulators

One thing we really like is that if you want to add bleach you can simply unscrew the screen housing and add the bleach in there, screw it back on, turn on the water and everything from there in gets a bleach wash.

I always run a gallon or so of water into a white bucket and let things settle down before we connect to water. It is amazing how much you can find especially if it is well water or old plumbing. A front end filter like these protects all of your valves, solenoids, pump, faucets and aerators and screens. And they are inexpensive. We are at five years on ours and still fine. The filter and pressure regulator on our extensive drip system at home is about 14 years old, no problems.

We do not have our water on all of the time and some of these may have continuous use limitations. If these is any concer I would call and ask. They are very helpful. At $8 I just carry a spare pressure regulator.

Roger

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #14 – August 19, 2015, 04:39:13 pm

Thanks very much, to ALL, for the education and suggestions. We're learning but the curve is steep!

It's interesting that so many folks run on the water pump rather than city water — interesting to us because our flow is MUCH better using the 12V water pump than on city water. That makes me think (?) it's not screen in the faucets, etc.?

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #15 – August 19, 2015, 06:45:41 pm

I am looking for a correct plumbing diagram for the city water, pump and fill side of things. City water when connected and the pump feed the cold water side of the maniblock distribution manifold. There is a check valve to prevent the pump from pumping water back out of the city water connection hose. A solenoid valve allows city water to fill the tank through the same line as the water comes out of the tank. If you are filling the tank, you won't have much pressure in the coach. If you are connected to city water and that pressure/flow is less than what you get from the pump then you may have a bad check valve or something else in the city water hose that is restricting the flow. Is your hose kinked or pinched in the reel? That is all I can think of that would produce the symptoms you describe. Most experience more pressure and more flow from a city water source than from the pump.

Roger

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #16 – August 19, 2015, 07:27:25 pm

To add to what Roger has suggested, when connected to city water, do you get full flow from your outside faucet? If not, your issue is probably the one-way valve at your hose connection or the hose.

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #17 – August 20, 2015, 12:14:33 am

Thanks for the detailed info about the flushable filter Roger! That gives me a great place to start...

Don

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #18 – August 20, 2015, 12:18:30 am

Quote from: LookingWest – August 19, 2015, 04:39:13 pm

Thanks very much, to ALL, for the education and suggestions. We're learning but the curve is steep!

It's interesting that so many folks run on the water pump rather than city water — interesting to us because our flow is MUCH better using the 12V water pump than on city water. That makes me think (?) it's not screen in the faucets, etc.?

As mentioned by Roger check your hose for kinks etc if connected to city water, and, if you have a pressure reducing valve on it maybe that is a problem? City should be more pressure I would think?
JohnH

Re: Water Pressure in Coach

Reply #19 – August 20, 2015, 08:28:20 pm

Quote from: Don & Tys (AKA acousticart) – August 20, 2015, 12:14:33 am

Thanks for the detailed info about the flushable filter Roger! That gives me a great place to start...
Don

Thanks from me too. I just ordered one. I plan to use this when filling my tank with good city water, it has a screen to keep the sand out but no charcoal to eliminate the chlorine. When hooked up, I normally use a two canister whole house filter. I can also use this to add bleach when needed.

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