Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members

Topic: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update (Read 1912 times) previous topic - next topic - Topic derived from MOT for residential r...

Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

September 14, 2015, 07:00:06 pm

Thanks Tim -

The more I think about this project with behind the scenes help from Roger, in Home2, the more I think I can get it done. Although I am saying that at 5:50PM today and my thoughts might be different tomorrow.

My door opening is: 27" and the new box without doors is 23.625 so I wouldn't need to remove the window.

I can certainly cap off the LP line and move the electrical boxes behind the drawers under the gas cook top as well as build a short platform for the new refer to sit on.

I am sure I can find a local wood shop to mill some trim pieces out of cherry for me.

I can acquire the help of 2 young bucks to help me and my buddy Bill move the one out and the other in.

Everything else is a matter of details. Right?

The plot thickens.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #1 – September 14, 2015, 07:34:25 pm

Moderators -

I guess this thread has lived it's life and has taken on another.

Should it be split in another: How to install your own Res. Refer.?

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #2 – September 14, 2015, 10:20:11 pm

Well if you try this yourself, and are around Houston, let us know and maybe I can lend a hand. I'm not a young buck, but I act like one sometimes.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #3 – September 14, 2015, 10:26:49 pm

I was able to do my own new unit, with the great photos and info from Roger. With the help of 2 friends the old unit came out. and with 3 friends the new unit went in thru the side window. Of course having access to Bill Chaplin's shop, and tools was a huge help as well.

I chose to do a full 33" replacement for my old 33" unit. Samsung had a unit that was the correct width, all I had to do was remove the shelf under the old unit and build the correct height new floor for the new taller unit. I love the new look, and the unit, and smile each and every time I open it for anything or more ice cubes.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #4 – September 15, 2015, 03:48:28 am

I installed a 350# Bosch side by side, counter depth, by myself.
I have a 95 with the 24" doors. The fridge is 24" wide without the doors.
I removed the doors and all the inside racks, drawers, and ice-maker. I removed the Foretravel door and the wood entrance hand-grip by the passenger seat. I also removed the passenger seat.
My wife and I were able to wrestle it in.

If you do this, Let the refrigerator sit for about a day(not plugged in) so the oils can settle back to were they are supposed to be.
Check to see if you need a platform to raise the refrigerator over any existing drain lines, Make sure you buy a unit that is NOT too tall, you will lose some height because of the Foretravel sloped roof at the rear of the refrigerator.
Make sure you can open your refrigerator doors enough to get the shelf's in and out and to service the ice maker.

I can't imagine paying 2 days labor to do this, unless you have no choice.

I'm sure that after your installation if you measured the cabinet work that might need to be done, you could find somebody with a table saw to cut the proper lumber for the face of the cabinets, or check with a cabinet maker to do the finish work.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #5 – September 15, 2015, 09:02:49 am

20 - 22 hours seems like a LOT of labor for a refrigerator change - Mine was in and out in 1/2 day at Parliament with 2 (and occasionally 3 or more) guys working on it. 8 hours estimated, 8 hours charged, included modifying space, building shelf, trim work.

I also had a counter depth installed (do't we all?) they removed the window aft of the entry door and took doors off both refrigerators, they positioned a forklift with LONG forks with Plywood on the forks outside the window with the plywood about even with the bottom of the window, four guys grabbed the old one (two inside and two outside) and slid it thought the window to the waiting forks, He lowered it to the ground and they took the old one off the forks and laid the new one on the forks. Reverse the process and maybe 2 minutes later the new one was in the coach. The refrigerator was not on it's side more than 90 seconds. We did let it sit for 2+ hours before we plugged it in with no ill effects.

The window took them about 8-10 minutes to remove from the coach (one guy on a short scaffold) and maybe 15 to re-install.

I had the refrigerator with the matching walnut wood panels from the factory - was easy for them to use those doors to cut the pieces for the trim - no matching or staining required!

That being said, for the extra $1,000, you won't be unhappy with FT or MOT, they have done them by the bunches, or if you are handy and patient DIY

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #6 – September 15, 2015, 01:00:29 pm

In my experience when quoted/estimated in $$$ or time the bill will eventually exceed the amount quoted. Also regardless of the amount of work required the estimate/quote will grow to cover any contingency that might occur. I can not fault their thinking. I'm quite sure if I were to drive the coach up to Nac and have FOT and MOT look at our configuration - the estimate/cost would probably be less. That being said I am gearing up to do it myself.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #7 – September 16, 2015, 05:45:16 pm

I have had a lot of work done on two coaches up at FOT ( but not a frig update). In the last three years, they have never come in over their estimate--- always below. I did ask David in the remodel shop about replacing the Dometic frig with a residential unit. His estimate was $4-5 coach bucks with him providing the new fridge and doing the entire job. Too pricy for me, so I'll have to do my own as well. It is nice to know that their estimates are accurate though.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #8 – September 16, 2015, 06:24:47 pm

Kemahjohn, have you found a residential fridge that fits? I have a side by side, Dometic RM7030 which may be what you have in your 1996.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #9 – September 16, 2015, 07:01:10 pm

My statement regarding actual costs exceeding charges was a general statement based on my life experience with many companies both personally and professionally.

I believe if given the opportunity for inspection both FOT and MOT would adjust their estimate/quote to reflect actual charge.

Nuff Said.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #10 – September 16, 2015, 07:58:20 pm

Buying apples from someone selling oranges when what you want is peaches rarely works out. Make sure the expectations and deliverables are very specific and understood by all. Usually works better.

Having done one and only one refrigerator r/r myself that included quite a bit of cabinet work, custom trim, a sliding door to cover the side wall vent and adjustments to plumbing and wiring in about 22 hours any of these times seem plausible depending on what they might do. Pretty basic for 8-10 hours.

If you are willing to do it yourself there is enough in savings to pay for the refrigerator.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #11 – September 21, 2015, 07:40:55 pm

Saw these some where on the FoFum and looked for hours trying to re-find them again. We will use these to secure our doors underway.

Picasa Web Albums - Robert Nodine - Travel Straps

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #12 – September 21, 2015, 08:06:50 pm

Scott, Maybe more than you need. Try a 1" velcro strap first. Our doors have never come open with ours. You can always beef it up.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #13 – September 21, 2015, 08:34:22 pm

Roger -

As usual - Thanks for your comments. We are mostly concerned with the bottom freezer door. Your solution is great and we purchased that door lock first. I had seen the other type a week or so ago when I was researching "How to keep the freezer door closed" and lost it. Have been looking for hours to find it again and - re found it tonight.

We have purchased both styles from Amazon. One like you use on your bottom drawer and the one in the above link. There are things I like about both and things I don't like. We have VHB tape as well as 5200 adhesive to attach the door lock. Once the trim is on we will look at both and decide then. We have a Sailrite sewing machine so I can sew/construct any webbing and Velcro we choose. I like the idea of having equal pressure across the door and not on one side.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #14 – September 21, 2015, 09:56:07 pm

VHB tape worked well. The freezer door magnetic seal does most of the work, the sliding door latch makes sure.

Re: Installing a Residential Fridge By Myself

Reply #15 – September 25, 2015, 03:58:48 pm

Progress

Put 3/8" cap on the top LP gas line coming out of manifold in LP bay. The bottom copper line goes to the Gaganau. Have no clean out in the 1-1/2" ABS sink drain pipe behind the lower refer panel so have a full 24.250" from the drain pipe to the front of the face frame. So leaving 5/8" of the refer box in the room for trim is no problem. I will be able to place the 3/4" plywood on top of the cabinet rail and create the platform to place the refer on and still have about 2" above the refer door to open under the pocket door header. My local cabinet guy milled the sliding door frame that will be placed behind the outside refer vent - $40.00 - donation for one base ball lesson for his son. Will be able to use the 3/16" panel that covers the wiring and drain pipe under the Dometic for the sliding access panel. Will put some insulation on the back of that sliding door to keep some of the weather out. When I disconnected the nonfunctioning ice maker a few months ago I placed a slip disconnect 1/4 turn ball valve in the water line to stop the water flow. Turned the valve and have water coming out so will use another slip disconnect to connect the refer water line to the existing water line with the 1/4 turn valve. I will donate another $40 to the son's ball career to have the cherry trim milled that will go around the new refer. Will Pick up the cherry from a local Woodcrafter.

Still have to determin how to seal the outside refer vent cover. Will also cover some/most of the roof refer vent from the inside with insulation to limit the amount of air coming through there.

I will attempt to place an "L" on top of the new refer using 5200 and attach it to a 2 x 4 to stabilize the refer latterally. Don't know exactly how I will get that done as I don't know exactly how much room I will have above the new refer is in place.

Will move both electrical boxes that are behind the Dometic to under the drawer next to the refer. I am planning on placing a switch in the circuit so I can turn off the refer. Still have to determin which outlet to use and where to place the switch. Will check tomorrow.

Picking up the refer Sunday AM and the crew will be here at 9AM for the swap. Hope to have the new refer in place by noon or so. Taking out the passenger chair and bringing in through the door.

I will post a pic of the cabinet opening when the Dometic is out and will have the DW take some pics of the ordeal.

Getting closer.

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #16 – September 25, 2015, 06:27:43 pm

Thare are wires that come into the refrigerator roof vent opening from somewhere. That makes it a bit harder to seal up. I shaped and fit 1-1/2" pink foam blocks into the opening closing it up about 75%. Before we went out west this summer I removed the vent cover and used aluminum HVAC tape to cover the outside screen and the replaced the vent cover. Sealed it up well but with warm temps having it open would be nice.

If you are not using the coach in cold weather then closing the vent from the inside with foam might be enough.

Ideal solution would be some sliding vent opening cover. Closed while driving, open while parked.

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #17 – September 25, 2015, 07:32:43 pm

We are installing an insulated sliding door that will be behind the refer in front of the refer vent. Larry does wonderful work. Ours probably won't be as pretty as his but I think it will work to limit hot and cold air from coming into the coach. Hopefully it will also stop some of our grilling smoke that usually sets off the smoke detector above the refer often when our large awning is extended.

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #18 – September 25, 2015, 07:34:15 pm

My side wall vent has a sliding door closure. Because the residential refrigerator is not in a sealed cabinet like the Dometic was with the roof vent opening open when driving in cold weather we could feel the cold air coming in around the edges. With the roof vent closed we could feel some heat coming out around the edges when we were parked. So there has to some variable solution, one will emerge from the neural bucket when I get those little sparkers aligned. 🌝

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #19 – September 25, 2015, 07:44:46 pm

I have been wondering if the roof vent is really necessary. I have read on other forums where folks have used spray foam around the refer sides and top to limit the amount of outside air coming into the coach around the refer. Although this might be a good idea I hate the thought of having to remove the foam and I wonder how much the foam would inhibit the air flow around the refer. If I recall Pierce had a TV installed where the outside vent is - so I would guess it would be OK to close it off permanently leaving only the roof vent.

Roger - I too have been scratching my noggin re: a slide type of roof vent closure.

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #20 – September 25, 2015, 07:52:40 pm

To stop any cool air coming into coach around the fridge frame and walnut frame I (our fridge is black) used black silicone caulking all around to stop this and it works. never any draught and it helps to stabilize the unit too. You cannot see it unless you look really hard around edge. So, if you have a stainless unit used a grey or? type.
If you ever have to take fridge out just use a knife to slice the caulk.
JohnH

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #21 – September 25, 2015, 08:00:50 pm

Thanks John - Our box is black too. The caulking is a thought.

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #22 – September 25, 2015, 08:10:14 pm

When we first put out refrigerator in we tried it without the outside vent door. Huge amount of wind blowing in.

John idea of a caulk would work on the top and sides depending on how your trim fits. I don't think on the Samsung there would be any effective way of sealing the bottom. If the roof vent is open heat should exit and pull inside air along with it.

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #23 – September 25, 2015, 09:01:21 pm

I expect to have about 1/2" to 5/8" of the box extending into the room and trim to about 1/8" around the box. Since our refer is 33" and I don't have a small cabinet taking up some of the 36" opening - our trim will be about 2-1/2"for the legs - not sure about the header yet - should be about the same. We will have a little extra room on each side of the refer. On one hand I want enough air flow for the mechanics to work but want to limit the heat and cold around the box from entering the coach. Not sure how to balance that. I will be using 3/4" plywood as a base which might provide me with additional air flow control?

? Theoretically I guess I could close off the roof refer vent altogether and let the refer breath through the base opening and around the refer - although I would prefer the heat to exhaust out. The slide door behind the wall vent will open so I guess it would allow the heat to go out there, as Michelle mentioned - maybe a 12 volt fan or two behind the wall vent?

?

Any and all thoughts/comments are appreciated.

Re: Installing our Residential Fridge with the FoFum members - Update

Reply #24 – September 25, 2015, 09:24:04 pm

You can always add fans but these use power. Passive is probably best. Heat rises naturally. A fan in the roof opening if required would be better. Maybe just a hinged flap that opens. It needs to seal when closed and be easy to open and not rattle. A puzzle.

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